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Old 09-01-2015, 12:36 AM   #19
Ben_
 
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^^^ this
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Old 09-01-2015, 11:21 AM   #20
ern-diz
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoryM View Post
Front camber is adjustable. Typically you buy a $20 camber bolt to do it...
Which is why I said, stock there is no adjustment.

Side note, I found a shop one city over from me that only does alignments and charged me just $40. I was stoked.
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:11 PM   #21
shepd
 
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*All* Yarises have camber bolts. There are no part numbers for non-camber bolts (I asked when I was buying bolts because I had no idea what to get). All bolts holding the knuckle to the strut have a range of degrees that you can set the camber to, top and bottom.

You don't need to buy bolts unless you want major adjustments. Minor adjustments can be made without changing any parts. You just turn the bolt. That's it.

Equally, if you wanted to ridiculously adjust the toe of the car (Why? Well, I'll answer that with why would you want camber adjusted more than a tiny bit?), you'd need to figure out a way to extend the inner tie rods, so based on the idea that major adjustments that require buying stuff aren't adjustments at all, toe wouldn't count either.

I've attached the actual diagrams of what the bolts mean for camber. Who knows, it might come in handy for someone someday...
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File Type: png bolts.png (75.3 KB, 46 views)
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Old 09-01-2015, 03:03 PM   #22
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Interesting...
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:46 PM   #23
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Just ordered the 15004 for max camber. They are $6 each from the dealer not bad
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:37 PM   #24
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So ou need to change OEM bolts with different ones for different camber!!! Right?
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:15 PM   #25
RutherfordmanX
 
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Thanks for the info everyone. I guess so far with the miles I have I am doing well. The roads here in North Carolina are pretty good compared to most states. We pay for it though with one of the highest gas taxes. The ole Yar car is tougher than it looks. I have nailed a large Raccoon and a few hefty chunks of interstate rubber with only cosmetic damage. She is still going strong clocking the 180 mile a day trip. I would buy another but with this one being "field" tested I am not sure the new one will be as good.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:41 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rigaud View Post
So ou need to change OEM bolts with different ones for different camber!!! Right?
Yes. The OE way of doing it is replacing with smaller bolts to give you more room to adjust the camber. The Aftermarket way is to replace one with a cam-bolt, which allows to you adjust easier. Either way can get you close to -3 camber, which is more than most need (I run -2.8 to try and compensate for stock spring).

Even with the factory sized bolts you can get a little adjustment out of the camber. Usually it's enough to even out the camber so that the customer won't have a lead, but not enough for performance.

Anytime you change camber you need to set the toe or your tires will suffer. Small camber changes usually = large toe changes.

Cheers.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:05 AM   #27
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200k miles on 2000 ECHO no alignment, tires wearing just fine.

50kmiles on 2001 ECHO, no alignment, ditto

153k miles MB 240d 1979, no alignment, ditto

150k miles 1992 Saturn, ditto, ditto.

150k miles 1992 Honda Accord, ditto, ditto.

99k miles 1980 Subaru Hatchback, ditto, ditto.

75k miles 1986 Toyota Tacoma, ditto, ditto.

41k miles 2009 Yaris hatchback 3 accidents, ditto ditto.

Either Im very lucky or theres a lot of unnecessary aligning going on!
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:49 PM   #28
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For a daily driver non performance use I would think the factory holds are plenty fine. But if you don't have excessive tire wear don't bother with an allignmen
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