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Old 09-02-2015, 10:26 PM   #1
yaris9876
 
Drives: yaris hatch 07
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: usa
Posts: 245
front wheel bearings 07 hatch

I have 500K on my front end. I put new huBs in rear a couple years ago.
I want to do the front.
Is it hard to do??? anything I should know about it??? I will have the car on blocks.
while I was at it..would it be easy enough with the wheels off to put in a new clutch???
the clutch has 500K on it???
any info appreciated.
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Old 09-04-2015, 07:48 AM   #2
ex-x-fire
 
Drives: 2010 yaris 3 door hatch
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Sheboygan Falls, Wi.
Posts: 149
Looks like the front wheel bearings are a replaceable style, you can reuse the flange. It can be a difficult job if you haven't done one & you'll need some special tools like a slide hammer (to remove the flange), a press or hub shark (to press out the bearing) & a large snap ring plier.
Sometimes the old bearing race will stick to the flange so you'll have to deal with that too.
It might be easier to remove the knuckles & have a machine shop R&R the bearings.
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:08 AM   #3
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
Posts: 178
I'm doing mine right now. I did not use a slide hammer, and I actually found my press pretty useless on these (they're too tight).

Basic steps are to remove axle nut (must unstake it first, buy a new replacement), remove brakes, remove ABS sensor, disconnect tie rod end from steering knuckle, disconnect ball joint, disconnect steering knuckle/hub from strut.

For most people at home, bring the steering knuckle and hub to a shop (mechanic or machine, machine shop will do the nicest work). You should remove the circlip first (it will be rusted in there to hell and back, good luck, don't forget to buy replacements for this too!) They will be happy to press the bearing out and press a new one in. Don't forget to bring the bearing with you, and remind them that the magnetic side goes to the inside/abs sensor hole. Install the circlip.

Myself, I prefer the hard way. And it really is a pain in the ass. Use a socket or bearing remover and bang the centre of the bearing out. The hub will come loose with the inner race stuck on it. A careful cut with a dremel and a cold chisel will break that off, but if you aren't careful, you'll damage the hub surface. Then use needle nose pliers and rip out all the guts of the bearing from the knuckle. Remove the circlip. Weld a bead of weld around the thickest part of the race. Wait a while, let it cool. Now use a socket (or bearing remover) and hammer on the bearing like it owes you money. I mean hit it like you want to break something. And then it will come loose. Of course, if yours wasn't stuck, it probably came loose on the first light tap, LOL.

Freeze your new bearing, heat up the knuckle (preferrably not to the point of damaging the bearing!), and tap that sucker in there quick. This might not go so well, it's my next step... But it is the typical advice.

Reassemble everything. Have an alignment done. That's it. Don't worry, this is a job where you will feel the mechanic would have earned his pay, it kind of sucks. Especially when you realize other stuff has been neglected (ripped ball joint boots, dry tie rod ends, crunchy sounding struts) so you end up replacing all that too. :)
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:09 AM   #4
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
Posts: 178
As for putting in a new clutch being easier with the wheels off, I'm not sure. I had my car ripped down to the point there was no TRE or control arm attached. There's a generously sized piece of crossmember still in your way. I imagine if this was a good way to cheat the clutch out, people would prefer to do this than remove the engine. :)
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:31 PM   #5
Lux
 
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Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 103
You need a hydraulic press to do a wheel hub bearing.

Bring the knuckle to me and I will have it out, cleaned, and in within 15 to 20 minutes on average. Flat rate at an auto shop is 2.0 hours across the trade.
Odometer is no factor with the right tools and with a bench to work on.
shepd is on point: always purchase replacement circlips. The old ones cannot be reused if rust has claimed it during removal.

Buy the genuine Toyota bearing. Always.
They are made by Koyo, who is very well known in almost every industry as making the world's best bearings of any type.
Timken, SKF, FAG, Beck Arnley, GMB, National, Dorman, etc.: throw them or your wallet in the garbage.
NSK, where available, make good aftermarket bearings.

You have no chance of doing a clutch assembly on the driveway without the right equipment.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:04 PM   #6
yaris9876
 
Drives: yaris hatch 07
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: usa
Posts: 245
Can I get a new axlenut with castlenut style with kotter pin???Where?
where do you get a circlip??
how about this non abs...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=507&jpid=1
I have a press but like the idea of a machine shop..
can you guess what a US Toyota dealer would want for a new clutch??? Or do you know a really competent clutch shop around the northern plains that could do it right?? I will be on the road 90/94/80
soon in the west.Billings,South dakota, Sioux city etc...
btw I heard that instead of banging the ball joint apart with a pickle fork you can just take out the 3 bolts that are behind it on that steel rod with the flattened end..??
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Old 09-06-2015, 12:05 AM   #7
nookandcrannycar
 
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris9876 View Post
I have 500K on my front end. I put new huBs in rear a couple years ago.
I want to do the front.
Is it hard to do??? anything I should know about it??? I will have the car on blocks.
while I was at it..would it be easy enough with the wheels off to put in a new clutch???
the clutch has 500K on it???
any info appreciated.
I know this doesn't answer your ? ()....but... Congrats on 500,000+miles on your Yaris .
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:10 AM   #8
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
Posts: 178
Toyota sells the axle nut and the circlips. NAPA might sell the circlips. Everyone else probably doesn't sell either.

I don't know of any castle nut style axle nut for this car, and if you did find one that fit, you'd have to drill the axle to use a cotter pin on it anyways.

Don't forget to re-stake the new nut!

I believe labour for a clutch is 7 hours book time (read that on this forum somewhere). Parts are much cheaper, probably $300. Dealer labour around here goes for $100 - $125 an hour, so I'd estimate $1000. You can often get a clutch done *much* cheaper at an independent shop (a transmission shop can do the job too). How much cheaper is going to depend on where you're looking (cities have high labour prices) and how hungry the shop is for work.

For a professional shop, putting in a clutch is not a hard job. I would not hesitate to take the best deal I can find, so long as the parts being installed aren't subpar.

Only way to separate the balljoint is either by banging on the steering knuckle or using the appropriate tool to press the top of it through. I suppose there's one other way, that would be to remove the entire control arm (which would leave you with the control arm and balljoint as a unit, would suck when someone gets to put that on a press), but if you take a look at my other threads, I would STRONGLY advise against that on a high mileage vehicle.
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Old 09-07-2015, 02:09 PM   #9
yaris9876
 
Drives: yaris hatch 07
Join Date: Mar 2007
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the shocks on these are strut style ,no?? What are some replacement options with cheaper aftermarket options??
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:30 PM   #10
shepd
 
Drives: 2007 Yaris 5 door RS
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Kitchener, ON
Posts: 178
Rockauto has entire assemblies for $90. I rarely find anything cheaper than them. :)
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