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Old 04-24-2017, 05:59 PM   #1
rangerkeim
 
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris
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Rough Idle/ Stall, Very Hard To Start, Tried usual suggestions

Ok so i am going to admit defeat and ask for help, ive tried everything ive seen on here about trying to fix the idle and nothing has worked. I have replaced the plugs and coils, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned and then replaced the MAF sensor, Cleaned and replaced the air filter, replaced the battery, tried to reset the throttle position using everyones suggestions on how to do it but im still having the same problems, I end up having to crank the car for 10-60seconds while pedaling the gas pedal to get it to start, while the cool light is on the engine runs fine, as soon as the cool light comes off or i drive a little bit the engine will stall as soon as it is out of gear, pressing in the clutch or sitting at a red light. The egine after it stalls is just as hard to crank over i usually end up kick starting it. I have no idea what to do, their are no codes, and no check lights, not even any permenant codes. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:59 PM   #2
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forgot to mention 2010 toyota yaris sedan stick shift.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:16 PM   #3
Bluevitz-rs
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Have you checked the fuel system?

Pull the injectors and see if there's any abnormalalities.

Can you check the afr sensor readings?
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:04 PM   #4
rangerkeim
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Have you checked the fuel system?

Pull the injectors and see if there's any abnormalalities.

Can you check the afr sensor readings?

What exactly do I need to check in the fuel system? I have pulled off the fuel line and it delivers fuel while cranking, my obd doesn't have a afr listed on the live data, I havnt pulled the injectors yet but it's on the list of possibilities, problem I am having is 20 solutions to the symptoms but without a code telling me where to look into feel lost. Gonna try to post video of start up and obd2 readings. Rpms hover at 400 once warm. Not very tech savvy it seems gonna upload the videos to you tube and post link

Video 1 https://youtu.be/PPYG15p-IMA starting
Video 2 https://youtu.be/cEmcSt-J5yg obd2

Last edited by rangerkeim; 04-24-2017 at 08:19 PM. Reason: add videos
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:15 PM   #5
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does your reader show you O2 voltage? Seems like the car will work in open loop but not closed which is odd
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:51 PM   #6
rangerkeim
 
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
does your reader show you O2 voltage? Seems like the car will work in open loop but not closed which is odd
02b1s1(v) is 3.3
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:01 PM   #7
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Does it oscillate or is it only reading 3.3 constant?
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:02 PM   #8
rangerkeim
 
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Does it oscillate or is it only reading 3.3 constant?
oscillates
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:05 PM   #9
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people have told me timing chain, injectors, fuel pump, camshaft sensor, o2 sensor, ect ect ect and i just dont know where to start, its getting expensive replacing things hoping it will do something
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:16 PM   #10
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is it normal for the fuel pump to only pump fuel when cranking and not when the key is turned on?
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Old 04-24-2017, 11:18 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerkeim View Post
is it normal for the fuel pump to only pump fuel when cranking and not when the key is turned on?
yes.

3.3v is running lean. It should be around 2.5V if your running regular gas.

Try unplugging the AFR sensor and see if your car runs better. If it's still the same, you'll have to check your fuel pressure with an in-line gauge you hook into the fuel line right at the fuel rail. From your description of having to crank for so long and running lean once running, it sounds like you have very low fuel pressure. The pump might have developed an internal leak or the built-in pressure regulator failed.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:04 AM   #12
rangerkeim
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
yes.

3.3v is running lean. It should be around 2.5V if your running regular gas.

Try unplugging the AFR sensor and see if your car runs better. If it's still the same, you'll have to check your fuel pressure with an in-line gauge you hook into the fuel line right at the fuel rail. From your description of having to crank for so long and running lean once running, it sounds like you have very low fuel pressure. The pump might have developed an internal leak or the built-in pressure regulator failed.
Any idea where the afr sensor is on this model? I've been looking for schematics online but havnt found anything
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:33 AM   #13
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It's the first sensor in the exhaust coming out of the engine.
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:40 AM   #14
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You have fuel when cranking but how much fuel? Check fuel pressure and check if it holds pressure when you turn it off. (44-50 psi idle) after 5min eng off at least 20psi pressure hold.
Your injectors could be leaking causing rough running and misfires.

You can also check the resistance of the injectors 13-14 Ohms at 20C (68F)

It gets expensinve when you are just replacing stuff. Diagnose first then replace. All the inspections are listed in the repair manuals ask for help and we can get you the information. :)

Good luck !
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