cracked CV joint help - Toyota Yaris Forums

dragoonmc · 05-27-2013, 04:23 PM

So today I was changing my oil and noticed that there was something all over my drivers side wheel on the inner edge. I took the below picture.

I believe the CV boot is crocked or torn. What is the normal procedure for correcting this? A new boot or a new shaft?

CTScott · 05-27-2013, 05:24 PM

That does look like the boot has a crack or rip. People will sometimes just replace the boot (and there are split ones that install without removing the shaft, but they typically don't hold for long). With the work required to remove the shaft to replace the boot properly, your best best is to just replace the shaft assembly.

auxmike · 05-27-2013, 05:33 PM

Blue struts, is the car lowered? Won't that change the angle and lead to rips then?

dragoonmc · 05-27-2013, 08:14 PM

It is on eibach sportlines which does not drop the car very much at all. lowering the car will actually reduce the stress on the boots

YarisSedan · 05-27-2013, 10:15 PM

New shaft typically 60 bucks at your local parts store. The time to change the boot only is not worth it and keep in mind if you change only the outer boot the inner boot rubber is dry and brittle and will tear likely soon after and you will end up having to take the axle out anyways to do the inner later on so might as well replace the entire unit.

dragoonmc · 06-01-2013, 05:29 PM

Well I get the shaft and everything apart but did not notice the need for a slide hammer to get the shaft out before I torn into and it is the only car I have.
Any other way to get the drivers side shaft out of the transaxle?

auxmike · 06-01-2013, 05:31 PM

Can you post some pics

dragoonmc · 06-01-2013, 05:52 PM

Not really. The inner joint is tight to a portion of the transaxle case to the front and part of the bottom. almost the rest of the bottom and the back side is blocked by the crossmember.
The joint has 3 notches that are machined in to facilitate its removal but because of the surrounding things it can not be driven out by using a hammer

auxmike · 06-01-2013, 05:56 PM

I had to remove both axels once on my 1997 Saturn 5 speed. They were tough to get out too. Bad thing is two days after the clutch job the trannny axel seals leaked! I didn't change those seals. Be careful..

Absolutely Red 12 · 06-01-2013, 07:00 PM

A CV boot can be replace without removing the shaft from the transmission.

The trick is to cut the boot, remove the outer joint, pack the joint with new grease, slide the boot on, line up the outer joint to the shaft, and pop it on. Then tighten clamps.

I've done thousands of boots in my previous career.

The outer takes more stress along the folds due to steering. The inner will outlast the car.

If the boot is still intact, the joint is still good.

Boots are 8 bux at rockauto.com

dragoonmc · 06-01-2013, 07:32 PM

I intend to replace the shaft and already have the shaft to do so. I also have to have this done by tomorrow night so I can get to work.

Absolutely Red 12 · 06-02-2013, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragoonmc

I intend to replace the shaft and already have the shaft to do so. I also have to have this done by tomorrow night so I can get to work.

Have a trasmission seal handy.

dragoonmc · 06-02-2013, 09:28 PM

Well its done. Ended up talking to a mechanic that suggested using a crowbar to get the shaft popped out. after some work at it I got that to work. it was in there much harder than I would have guessed. Now its all back together and I got the ATF change I was thinking about doing before this happened done.
It was about an inch long crack at one of the point ribs

05-27-2013, 05:24 PM	#2
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	That does look like the boot has a crack or rip. People will sometimes just replace the boot (and there are split ones that install without removing the shaft, but they typically don't hold for long). With the work required to remove the shaft to replace the boot properly, your best best is to just replace the shaft assembly. __________________

05-27-2013, 05:33 PM	#3
auxmike Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LI, New Yawk Posts: 2,063	Blue struts, is the car lowered? Won't that change the angle and lead to rips then? __________________ Never take eyes off opponent - Bruce Lee

05-27-2013, 10:15 PM	#5
YarisSedan Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: California - Bay Area Posts: 2,773	New shaft typically 60 bucks at your local parts store. The time to change the boot only is not worth it and keep in mind if you change only the outer boot the inner boot rubber is dry and brittle and will tear likely soon after and you will end up having to take the axle out anyways to do the inner later on so might as well replace the entire unit. __________________ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3210549

06-01-2013, 05:31 PM	#7
auxmike Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LI, New Yawk Posts: 2,063	Can you post some pics __________________ Never take eyes off opponent - Bruce Lee

06-01-2013, 05:56 PM	#9
auxmike Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: LI, New Yawk Posts: 2,063	I had to remove both axels once on my 1997 Saturn 5 speed. They were tough to get out too. Bad thing is two days after the clutch job the trannny axel seals leaked! I didn't change those seals. Be careful.. __________________ Never take eyes off opponent - Bruce Lee

05-27-2013, 08:14 PM	#4
dragoonmc Drives: 07 hatchback Join Date: May 2012 Location: Illinois Posts: 118	It is on eibach sportlines which does not drop the car very much at all. lowering the car will actually reduce the stress on the boots

06-01-2013, 05:29 PM	#6
dragoonmc Drives: 07 hatchback Join Date: May 2012 Location: Illinois Posts: 118	Well I get the shaft and everything apart but did not notice the need for a slide hammer to get the shaft out before I torn into and it is the only car I have. Any other way to get the drivers side shaft out of the transaxle?

06-01-2013, 05:52 PM	#8
dragoonmc Drives: 07 hatchback Join Date: May 2012 Location: Illinois Posts: 118	Not really. The inner joint is tight to a portion of the transaxle case to the front and part of the bottom. almost the rest of the bottom and the back side is blocked by the crossmember. The joint has 3 notches that are machined in to facilitate its removal but because of the surrounding things it can not be driven out by using a hammer

06-01-2013, 07:00 PM	#10
Absolutely Red 12 Asshole Drives: 2012 and 2013! Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Your moms house. Posts: 392	A CV boot can be replace without removing the shaft from the transmission. The trick is to cut the boot, remove the outer joint, pack the joint with new grease, slide the boot on, line up the outer joint to the shaft, and pop it on. Then tighten clamps. I've done thousands of boots in my previous career. The outer takes more stress along the folds due to steering. The inner will outlast the car. If the boot is still intact, the joint is still good. Boots are 8 bux at rockauto.com __________________ Cheapest DD I could find!!

06-01-2013, 07:32 PM	#11
dragoonmc Drives: 07 hatchback Join Date: May 2012 Location: Illinois Posts: 118	I intend to replace the shaft and already have the shaft to do so. I also have to have this done by tomorrow night so I can get to work.

06-02-2013, 09:28 PM	#13
dragoonmc Drives: 07 hatchback Join Date: May 2012 Location: Illinois Posts: 118	Well its done. Ended up talking to a mechanic that suggested using a crowbar to get the shaft popped out. after some work at it I got that to work. it was in there much harder than I would have guessed. Now its all back together and I got the ATF change I was thinking about doing before this happened done. It was about an inch long crack at one of the point ribs

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