Tooter manifold / Corolla TB / DC Header / etc....

[3cyltrbo]

-Tooter Manifold
-Corolla Throttle Body
-Coolant Bypass (Throttle Body)
-65 Deg Thermostat
-DC sports header

And the end result is that it feels like I've LOST 10-15hp ?????????????? (instead of having gained 10hp which is what I was expecting)


I was expecting to awaken a monster
I was expecting more noise
I was expecting some added power in the top end



Instead …………..

It feels like I'm driving around with AirConditioning on (I don't even have AC) with 3 passengers in the car (when in fact I've actually taken a bunch of weight OUT of the car)

I'm at a total loss.



If this is the way its gonna drive, I'll switch it all back to stock.

[CTScott]

Did you disconnect the battery after installing the throttle body to reset the fuel trims?

Did you per chance install each thing separately, where you could see the difference with each part?

If not, I would suggest reversing the process one by one, starting with reverting to the stock throttle body.

[47_MasoN_47]

+1 for disconnecting the battery. Garm always said let the car sit for 10 minutes with the battery disconnected to reset it.

[fnkngrv]

Just seems like a lot of expense and work IMHO to free up 10HP. As previously stated, with today's intelligent ECMs you must force it to relearn. That being said I would be curious to know if the effect would stay permanent or not. The Yaris ECM is as freak of nature and designed by some pretty intelligent folks to not allow you to fool it.

[Golddeenoh]

it is still a learning computer that establishes fuel trims based on driving (short term and long term fuel trims) and once you remove the battery long enough for the capacitors in the ECM to drain down, then the ECM has to relearn your driving style and reestablish new long and short term fuel trims. if you drive it like an old lady after the relearn it will try and drive/run that way every time you drive, if you drive like you can't burn the fuel out of it fast enough it will try to drive/run like that every time you drive. some manufactures even have a specific driving cycle that has to be done after the ECM is reset in order to reestablish the fuel trims and throttle position.


clear the learned memory and drive it cautiously until warmed up then like you want to drive it after that.

[3cyltrbo]

The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will

[cali yaris]

And the end result is that it feels like I've LOST 10-15hp ?????????????? (instead of having gained 10hp which is what I was expecting)

Tooter's dyno chart showed losses through some of the power band.

[mazilla]

How's the top end, you notice any change on the freeway?

[47_MasoN_47]

It does take a little while for the car to figure things out too. Generally it seems like mine figures things out after about 30 miles or so. While I was doing my projector install I disconnected the battery, when I first cranked the car it was running super rich (1zz injectors) and idling weird. Driving it around for the first little while it was like it had forgotten how to act. It cleared up after driving it for a couple of days and its back to how it was now.

[1.5]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

Tooter's dyno chart showed losses through some of the power band.

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

[47_MasoN_47]

Originally Posted by 1.5

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

Or just Blitz it :) I've been extremely pleased with mine.

[1.5]

or that lol ^

[cali yaris]

yeah THAT.

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by 1.5

This ^^

thats where your loss is from... go with the MI/GE one

if I remember they were marginal losses, and that was without a 1zz TB.

Nothing like what I'm feeling / and not all where I'm feeling it either (I'm also feeling a lack of top end (not that it was a screamer before) )

As per the other comments, like I've said the car has had many opportunities to re-learn (instances of the battery being disconnected etc...)

Will

[3cyltrbo]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

yeah THAT.

I would never ever ever pay retail for a Blitz. Everytime one comes up used, its either Sketchy or its super cheap ($1500 -$1800 range) and it sells before I know its for sale.

I'm actually thinking more along the lines of K20A

Will

[cali yaris]

I think that was meant playfully, not as a real suggestion. At least I meant it that way. Sorry to confuse the issue.

if I remember they were marginal losses, and that was without a 1zz TB. Nothing like what I'm feeling / and not all where I'm feeling it either (I'm also feeling a lack of top end (not that it was a screamer before) )

Hey, you asked. I gave my opinion. Even a marginal loss is not a gain. Possible vacuum leak somewhere, maybe? Have you checked all the connections and listened for leaks?

You might try going back to a stock TB and see if that cleans it up at all. Our manifold accepts either throttle body, I'm not sure about the Tooter.

Remember, you've changed two or more things at once. It's best to change one thing at a time to see what the result is.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by 3cyltrbo

The battery was disconnected through the entire upgrade process (the battery was actually one of the things that I upgraded)

And it has been disconnected since the install of the engine stuff as well (I've been working on the headlights and audio after doing the intake and TB, so I've had other occasion to disconnect the battery)

Its also worth mentioning that I don't have any seemingly bad side-effects other than a super high idle when the car is cold (first thing in the morning). Other than the high idle, everything seems "okay" (other than the fact that I think I've lost 10hp)

Will

Hey Will,

I have a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If you don't like the tooter, send it back to me and I'll refund your money, You'll only be out the return shipping cost. Then you can buy Garm's manifold if you think it will solve your problems.

Personally I think that something else is wrong, but that's not for me to figure out. So just send it back for an immediate full refund.

Greg

[tooter]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

You might try going back to a stock TB and see if that cleans it up at all. Our manifold accepts either throttle body, I'm not sure about the Tooter.

I am. It works with both throttle bodies.