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Old 05-23-2010, 01:07 AM   #1
Herbicidal
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Driver door won't open, jammed cable?

Well I think I'm screwed in a big way. I spent most of today sound deadening the drivers door. I finally finished, reconnected the two cables for the lock/latch mechanism, the plug for power to the door locks and windows. I climbed in and the door didn't want to latch when it was shut. I cycled the power door lock switch a few times and tried again. This time it shut, but now it won't open. I've tried the key outside in the door, cycled the door locks and it won't open. I think perhaps when I put the main panel back on, it might have applied too much pressure on one of the cables therefore not allowing it to release the latch. Or, it popped out of the notch that was holding in place and is essentially no longer connected to the door handle.

I don't think I can even get the panel off with the door closed. I'm about ready to bust out my cutoff wheel and destroy the panel to get the blankity blank door open, yes, I would have to buy a new door panel. Any suggestions before I go all Rambo on it? What a crappy way to end this day. It had been going too well apparently.
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 05-23-2010, 02:07 PM   #2
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Thanks for the suggestions. Yeah, I tried all those, my fear is the cable came off behind the pull lever to open the door. I may have to cut out all around the lever to get to the cables and then hopefully manually manipulate the cables to release the latch. I was so careful on everthing else, and this one bit me in the butt.

Lesson learned: try operating everthing FULLY before putting on the door panel for the last time, including opening/closing/locking/unlocking the doors. I'm still giving myself some cool down time before trying anything else. Maybe I'll pull the door panel off the passenger side to remind myself how it looks and operates. For now, it's a NASCAR style entry and exit, as long as I don't need to roll up the window. I'm sure one day this will be funny.
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:10 PM   #3
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Have you tried rolling the window down and reaching down into the door through the window slot with something long and slim (coat hanger, screw driver,???) to try and release the door latch? I have no idea if it's even possible but it might keep you from cutting the panel apart.
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:38 PM   #4
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I was just looking at it from that perspective and it appears to be too tight to get much in there. Gone are the days when a slim jim would get in there and unlock a door, especially with the Yaris using cables to lock/unlock the door. I was also looking at this LINK, door lock section (scroll down the main page a little), page 128 - 133 and I think I'm pretty much going to have to cut an opening near or all around the door opening lever to get to the cable ends and hopefully coax them into releasing the door. Since I've "deadened" the door, all the normal access holes are completely covered up, so the only I thing I can work with are the cable ends up near the door release lever.

I do appreciate the suggestion, thanks.
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:41 PM   #5
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time to weld the door shut, drop the glass, and 'General Lee' it from this point forward

how badass would that be ?
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Old 05-23-2010, 05:54 PM   #6
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The window is too damn small for me to pull off a stunt like that. I feel like doing this right about now
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 05-23-2010, 06:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbicidal View Post
I think I'm pretty much going to have to cut an opening near or all around the door opening lever to get to the cable ends and hopefully coax them into releasing the door.
It may be different on the sedan, but on the LB the interior door lever can be removed by itself without having to take the door panel off. Just take out the screw and pull on the whole assembly.

If the cable is off at the actual lock mechanism you're SOL.
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Old 05-23-2010, 11:59 PM   #8
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Success!

I took it over to my good friend who is a Toyota mechanic. We took apart the passenger side to see exactly how the locking mechanism works. He has a slim jim and we figured out how to push down on a vertical rod that goes from the door handle to the latch release. Once we felt we knew how to release it we tried it on the stuck door. No luck. We tried to remove the door lever to get to the cables. We did the get the door lever piece partially removed, but still couldn't reach the cables. Then we decide to try and pry the door panel off from the top, but couldn't until we removed this corner plastic piece which was held in place by the closed door. We were carefully able to pry it out without any damage and then with his panel removal tools came in from the top and we were able to lift the entire top edge of the door panel up and inward towards the drivers seat. Yaaaay! This gave us room to manipulate the cables and pop! The door opened! Talk about doing a happy dance! We tried to duplicate the issue with the door panel off and we could not. We looked closely at the top cable which controls the door lock and it was very slightly bent. The release cable had also popped out of it's "slot". There was also some sticky residue (probably from the adhesive from the RAAMmat) on the cable. We believe all three things worked together to prevent the latch from releasing. Wow! I'm so happy that we didn't have to cut anything. It all went back together and is working once again. Whew!!!! All's well that ends well.

I owe my buddy a Starbucks gift card. He's the man!
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 05-24-2010, 06:47 AM   #9
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Congratulations on a successful operation.

What? No pics?
I guess the video of you in the panic mode won't be on Youtube either?

j/k

I guess you will be more careful when you sound deaden the passenger door,
but good to know you solved the problem. This might come in handy for
any others that encounter the same problem.
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Old 05-24-2010, 11:29 AM   #10
Herbicidal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revsson View Post
Congratulations on a successful operation.

What? No pics?
I guess the video of you in the panic mode won't be on Youtube either?
j/k

I guess you will be more careful when you sound deaden the passenger door,
but good to know you solved the problem. This might come in handy for
any others that encounter the same problem.
Thanks! Yeah, HUGE sigh of relief! The door is working perfectly now, just a nice solid thud when it closes.

Correct! No pics and no video! It would not have been very pretty. For a period of time yesterday, if you Googled 'dumb ass' you would have found my picture.

That's what I was thinking too. Hopefully we can learn from each others mistakes and not make them again. Or find brand new ways to "f-up"!
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:00 PM   #11
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Hi Guys Im new to this site!

I am having the same problem with the door locked shut. I have managed to get the inside of the door partially off (enough to get a hand in and feel around the locking mechanism but I cannot get the door to open. Is there any other way of opening the door from the inside if the cable isnt operating correctly?

Cheers,
Harry
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:23 PM   #12
Herbicidal
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Here's a picture of the drivers door with the panel removed, maybe this picture will help so you know what your are trying to pull on? The door cables are topmost in this picture and arch from left to right. One has a white 'boot' near the end of the cable and the other has a green 'boot' near the end.
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2008 Toyota Yaris (Vios) 'S' sedan, Flint Mica, dropped on TRD springs, TRD anti-sway bar. Tinted rear windows. Lenso Samurai SC02 hyper black 17" x 7" rims, wrapped in 205x40x17 Federal ss595's. Color matched eyelids. Vios badge. Body color trunk trim (was chrome). Lamin-X tint on rear tails. Custom center exit exhaust. Tanabe front strut tower brace.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:22 PM   #13
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Thanks for the pic. I have tried pulling on the cables and the cable and its shroud together but the door wouldnt open. I think that the lock is jammed in the locked position and the door lock motor cannot unlock it either when i use central locking.

Is there no other way to open the door than to use the cables?
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:14 PM   #14
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Welcome for the pic. Shoot. Not that I know of. Could you have someone else push in on the door (from the outside) right about where the locking mechanism is? This might help to remove some of the tension on the lock so you can release it via the cables. Just a thought...
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