Help wont start - Toyota Yaris Forums

gagie · 02-07-2014, 04:31 PM

Hi

I hope someone can help me, I have a 2001 verso as we call it in the uk. Only 182,000mls on the clock and was running sweet. Then one morning it would not start, engine turns ok but it does not burst into live.
First I thought it was the fuel pump as I could not hear it pumping, after checking all the associated electric found it was now working.
Changed the fuel filter and it now seems to be working well and plenty of pressure.
Checked to see if there was a spark and tested on of the pencil coils and it seems to be giving out a spark.
I was wondering if the fact there is a spark does this prove the the ecu is working and sensing things to be putting out a spark at the right timming?
I am a bit baffled with the fuel rout and setup so if anyone can explain how the fuel is circulated.
I have a small solenoid that does not seem to open when 12v is applied, this solenoid has a tube to the air inlet and to the black bow thing thats dose something with the petrol system. So was wondering if this could have something to do with the fault.
The car is now turning over and sounds like it is trying to start but just not getting there. Is it likely to be the crankshaft or other sensor causing the problem.
Sorry to go on but any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Gary

CTScott · 02-07-2014, 11:03 PM

The solenoid valve is for the evaporative emissions system. It should normally be closed and then should open when 12 V is applied. If it was bad the engine would run roughly, but still should start.

The fuel system is pretty simple. The fuel pump (which is in the tank) sends the fuel through the small hoses that connects to the metal pipe that runs under the car to the firewall. From the firewall it connects to the fuel rail, which feeds the injectors. All of the other hoses going to the fuel tank are for the evaporative emissions system, which captures the fuel vapors into the charcoal canister.

gagie · 02-10-2014, 08:33 AM

Thanks for the reply
It' the first fuel system with no return I've had and was confusing me a little if not a lot. I'm going to try and clean the crank shaft and other shaft sensor just in case it dirty and not sensing well. Cant seem to find a detail description of which sensors active the spark plugs and injectors. Since the spark plugs are sparking it could be the control for the injectors or a fuel problem even thought the system is pressurised up to the common rail. I see there is a device that looks like a pressure regulator so was wondering do these often go faulty.

Cheers

CTScott · 02-10-2014, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gagie

Thanks for the reply
It' the first fuel system with no return I've had and was confusing me a little if not a lot. I'm going to try and clean the crank shaft and other shaft sensor just in case it dirty and not sensing well. Cant seem to find a detail description of which sensors active the spark plugs and injectors. Since the spark plugs are sparking it could be the control for the injectors or a fuel problem even thought the system is pressurised up to the common rail. I see there is a device that looks like a pressure regulator so was wondering do these often go faulty.

Cheers

With the returnless system the fuel pump pressurizes the rail and there is a regulator in the tank that does the regulation. The device on the rail is basically just a little expansion tank to prevent cavitation as the injectors cycle at high duty rates.

The crank and cam signals are used by the ECM for knowing when to fire the plugs and injectors. Also, the ECM will not fire the injectors if the car has an engine immobilizer and the ECM has not seen a registered key in the ignition. In this situation the engine will crank, but will never start as fuel is not injected.

gagie · 02-20-2014, 05:38 AM

Hi Again
Thanks for all your help I finally got her going again so ready for the next 180,000mls lol. Seems very likely to have been a combination of poor electrical connections and the battery. As I had to clean all the electrical connection to do with the starter motor (they where rusty etc and a new battery gets its starting easy once I got it started again.
I got a manual and it said that if the immobilizer is faulty the petrol pump will not run which was the original fault I thought I had. Thought I would just update you all and let you know what action's repaired it and thank you again for the help.
Cheers

02-07-2014, 04:31 PM	#1
gagie Drives: 2001 verso 1.3gls Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: glasgow Posts: 3	Help wont start Hi I hope someone can help me, I have a 2001 verso as we call it in the uk. Only 182,000mls on the clock and was running sweet. Then one morning it would not start, engine turns ok but it does not burst into live. First I thought it was the fuel pump as I could not hear it pumping, after checking all the associated electric found it was now working. Changed the fuel filter and it now seems to be working well and plenty of pressure. Checked to see if there was a spark and tested on of the pencil coils and it seems to be giving out a spark. I was wondering if the fact there is a spark does this prove the the ecu is working and sensing things to be putting out a spark at the right timming? I am a bit baffled with the fuel rout and setup so if anyone can explain how the fuel is circulated. I have a small solenoid that does not seem to open when 12v is applied, this solenoid has a tube to the air inlet and to the black bow thing thats dose something with the petrol system. So was wondering if this could have something to do with the fault. The car is now turning over and sounds like it is trying to start but just not getting there. Is it likely to be the crankshaft or other sensor causing the problem. Sorry to go on but any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Gary

02-07-2014, 11:03 PM	#2
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	The solenoid valve is for the evaporative emissions system. It should normally be closed and then should open when 12 V is applied. If it was bad the engine would run roughly, but still should start. The fuel system is pretty simple. The fuel pump (which is in the tank) sends the fuel through the small hoses that connects to the metal pipe that runs under the car to the firewall. From the firewall it connects to the fuel rail, which feeds the injectors. All of the other hoses going to the fuel tank are for the evaporative emissions system, which captures the fuel vapors into the charcoal canister. __________________

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Vibration on idle & rough start	Murtaza_murti	DIY / Maintenance / Service	25	08-15-2015 12:58 PM
Remote Start Bug, please help	jeeper5usa	In Car Entertainment + Electronics (audio / video / alarm)	5	01-02-2014 08:36 PM
My car doesn't start	yaristhebest	General Yaris / Vitz Discussion	11	01-10-2013 10:02 PM
Car wont start - help!	tamo300	General Yaris / Vitz Discussion	14	03-23-2010 10:44 PM
Yaris does not start	jake002	DIY / Maintenance / Service	21	01-05-2010 08:53 AM

02-10-2014, 08:33 AM	#3
gagie Drives: 2001 verso 1.3gls Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: glasgow Posts: 3	Thanks for the reply It' the first fuel system with no return I've had and was confusing me a little if not a lot. I'm going to try and clean the crank shaft and other shaft sensor just in case it dirty and not sensing well. Cant seem to find a detail description of which sensors active the spark plugs and injectors. Since the spark plugs are sparking it could be the control for the injectors or a fuel problem even thought the system is pressurised up to the common rail. I see there is a device that looks like a pressure regulator so was wondering do these often go faulty. Cheers

02-20-2014, 05:38 AM	#5
gagie Drives: 2001 verso 1.3gls Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: glasgow Posts: 3	Hi Again Thanks for all your help I finally got her going again so ready for the next 180,000mls lol. Seems very likely to have been a combination of poor electrical connections and the battery. As I had to clean all the electrical connection to do with the starter motor (they where rusty etc and a new battery gets its starting easy once I got it started again. I got a manual and it said that if the immobilizer is faulty the petrol pump will not run which was the original fault I thought I had. Thought I would just update you all and let you know what action's repaired it and thank you again for the help. Cheers