Turbo or supercharger kit for the yaris availability?

[jmwagner866]

I was searching for ways to make a Yaris faster and an engine swap is out of my league. However bolting on a turbo or supercharger would be easy enough.

I've found the ZAGE turbo kit and the BLITZ supercharger, but a quick google search looks like they're not really available for sale anywhere. Where can I get a kit?

[m.flores.0928]

Originally Posted by jmwagner866

I was searching for ways to make a Yaris faster and an engine swap is out of my league. However bolting on a turbo or supercharger would be easy enough.



I've found the ZAGE turbo kit and the BLITZ supercharger, but a quick google search looks like they're not really available for sale anywhere. Where can I get a kit?

I would also like to know, I'll be following this one.


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[tmontague]

Originally Posted by jmwagner866

I was searching for ways to make a Yaris faster and an engine swap is out of my league.

The install may be easier but the tune and headaches/constant fidgeting to get it to run right make the 2zr swap an easier solution long term. Its not as daunting as you may think.

There are some old threads on here of people who went boosted and you can read about the hassles they've had.b also a bolt on kit is rarely ever true bolt on

Just something to think about

[m.flores.0928]

Originally Posted by tmontague

The install may be easier but the tune and headaches/constant fidgeting to get it to run right make the 2zr swap an easier solution long term. Its not as daunting as you may think.



There are some old threads on here of people who went boosted and you can read about the hassles they've had.b also a bolt on kit is rarely ever true bolt on



Just something to think about

For me, I have the 2014 model and the ZR swap can be done, but as far as I know, no one has swapped a third gen yet and many others aren't too sure about the 3rd gens because who knows about the ECU and other wiring differences there may be. For me, that's why I would rather pursue a turbo route.

Your point still stands though. I haven't been able to source an engine yet either.


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[tmontague]

Fair enough, I can't imagine toyota changed the wiring up too much but it is uncharted territory for sure

[invader166]

Originally Posted by tmontague

The install may be easier but the tune and headaches/constant fidgeting to get it to run right make the 2zr swap an easier solution long term. Its not as daunting as you may think.

There are some old threads on here of people who went boosted and you can read about the hassles they've had.b also a bolt on kit is rarely ever true bolt on

Just something to think about

I don't honestly believe there's a straight-forward solution. You can't say that an engine swap is the absolute best way to go.
Everyone has different preferences and different goals they want to achieve.
Some people honestly don't wanna go through the hassle and difficulty of pulling the wholle motor out along with wiring harness, ECU, etc. Without the proper tools and expertiese you're setting yourself up to have a bad time.
Is a supercharger or turbo a better way to go? Maybe, maybe not. Might be easier to install but harder to properly tune.
The trend nowadays is to have a small engine with forced induction, making big power.
(Chevy Cruise- 1.4L turbo = 154hp; Honda Civic- 1.5L turbo = 174hp; Kia Soul - 1.6L turbo = 201hp; etc...)
Like I said before, there's no one solution that works for everyone. Each of us has to make a choice as to what they want to do if they want to add extra power to their car.

[tmontague]

Agreed, which is why I didn't say the swap was the best way to go. Just mentioned that it is not necessarily more difficult than going boosted in the long run.

A boosted engine from factory is a different ball game than converting a non boosted engine into one if you want no cel's and don't want to be tinkering with it every weekend.

Ultimately it's up to the owner of the car and what they want.

As for the trend of small engines with turbos. For a dd those were more of a theory that never held its own when put into practice. The lack of constistency of the power band in variations of temperature, lack of reliability and peaky power bands make them sub par than an all engine design. Now this is obviously my opinion but many others share the same views who review cars for a living. And on top of that the higher mileage these designs were supposed to achieve never panned out since a 1.5 will almost always be in boost to move a 3000+ lb vehicle.

Ford invested too much money into that design so they won't back out. Mazda stayed away from it and if you compare both manufacturers engines Mazda seems to do better all around

[MugenRep]

Not sure if this ZAGE info would help you or not....

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57625

[scod4025]

http://www.power-llc.jp/product/rotr...it/rot109.html

here is an option for a supercharger, about $5500


Have not found out if they will ship international, and have no Idea if any good as never heard of anyone putting one on

[m.flores.0928]

Originally Posted by scod4025

http://www.power-llc.jp/product/rotr...it/rot109.html



here is an option for a supercharger, about $5500





Have not found out if they will ship international, and have no Idea if any good as never heard of anyone putting one on

No intercooler? Hello, heat soak...


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[WeeYari]

Originally Posted by m.flores.0928

No intercooler? Hello, heat soak...


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Don't need intercooler with s/c.

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[MugenRep]

Originally Posted by m.flores.0928

No intercooler? Hello, heat soak...


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Rotrex superchargers don't heatsoak like roots or centrifugal blowers because of the $100/quart viscosity fluid they use with the planetary gears to turn and produce boost versus the mechanical rotors or gears on roots/centrifugal which are friction driven and the Rotrex don't produce any heat compared to the other forms of forced induction. Rotrex actually don't even need a bypass or blow off valve because they don't get compressor surge like the other two styles. An intercooler on a Rotrex just means loss of 1-2 psi depending on the size of the intercooler and not as an immediate throttle response.

The only other type of supercharging that works in that way is a Comprex Wave Supercharger, but they can't take heat, so are not used in anything other than diesels.

Turbos obviously are the worse offenders of heatsoak, but that's obvious.

[m.flores.0928]

Originally Posted by MugenRep

Rotrex superchargers don't heatsoak like roots or centrifugal blowers because of the $100/quart viscosity fluid they use with the planetary gears to turn and produce boost versus the mechanical rotors or gears on roots/centrifugal which are friction driven and the Rotrex don't produce any heat compared to the other forms of forced induction. Rotrex actually don't even need a bypass or blow off valve because they don't get compressor surge like the other two styles. An intercooler on a Rotrex just means loss of 1-2 psi depending on the size of the intercooler and not as an immediate throttle response.



The only other type of supercharging that works in that way is a Comprex Wave Supercharger, but they can't take heat, so are not used in anything other than diesels.



Turbos obviously are the worse offenders of heatsoak, but that's obvious.

Oh I see, I didn't know that. I figured that the boost alone creates the heat soak just from hot air.


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[WeeYari]

A (one) Power Enterprise S/C did show up on here many years ago. It changed hands once without either owner giving any feedback on it.

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[Captain Yaris]

I'm with tmontague. I DD my Yaris and I'm not sure I have the time to devote to tuning. For me, I'd rather do as many mods on my 1NZ-FE as I can do, or swap engines. If I were to boost, I'd go with a supercharger kit as that requires the least amount of guess work in my eyes. A turbo on a N/A engine sounds like a headache unless you really know what you're doing, which I don't. I have a 3rd Gen and I can't swap an engine because I don't have the luxury of time in trying to figure things out. Therefor the only option is to keep what I have and mod as much as I can do in a few hours on the weekend. Assuming I were to totally mod a 1NZ-FE motor with Crower pistons (Higher compression), Connecting rods, lightened flywheel, lightened pully, A/F/E... what kind of power could I expect? Ultimately what I'm trying to strive for is around 180HP N/A. I know a 2ZR-FE would be a better candidate, but again, no one has swapped and I can't be a trailblazer at this stage of my life. I will say, the Blitz or Rotrex looks pretty enticing.

[MugenRep]

Of all the options I've read on here, I'd have to agree 100% that the 2zr-fe seems to be the cheapest and most efficient way to produce power in the Vitz/Yaris chassis. I'd skip past all the boost and go straight for 135whp guaranteed with the 2zr-fe (with bolt-ons).

[Captain Yaris]

That would be my first choice. I had a Ford Focus with a 2.0 liter Ztec. It had 130 hp and weighed 2600 lbs. If I ciuld put a 1.8 in and get 136 hp to start off with in a 2300-2400 lbs. car, that would be perfect. A few mods might net 160 hp which is mot far off from 1980's Porsche 911 territory. Those early 80's SC's had 180 hp and weighed in at around 2300 lbs from what I remember. Granted they had a lot more torque but it could be very satisfying.

[tmontague]

one thing I'm finding out is anything greater than 125 hp on the Yaris gives you mad right wheel spin on anything above 70 percent (approx) throttle in first gear.

I'll let you know how it goes once I run UHP rubber next summer, but from a stop I can no longer go WOT...well I can but my right tire starts smoking.

An LSD and proper UHP rubber would do the trick.

I do agree that a s/c is an easier route to go than turbo, but the issue still arises with trying to make the Yaris happily see boost and not go nuts. Sure, a piggy back is an option but based on how damn encrypted ther Toyota ecu's are, it becomes virtually impossible to do without pulling the O2 sensor (which gives you a CEL) so that you're running in open loop constantly.

Hate to say it but Toyota's are not tuner friendly...they are however damn reliable...hence why ther 2zr swap is probably easily the best option to get to 140 whp (bolt ons)

Best solution is to run a standalone ECU buit that isn't an option for most of us who use our Yaris as a DD and have e tests. The standalone would however allow you to get the most out of the engine