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Old 09-14-2011, 04:17 AM   #19
technoguy
 
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Exactly same as bee_ha happened to my Vitz 2005,I thought it was thd battery though lights were glowing on remote, battery arrived today but no luck,searched and found this thread, followed the re write procedure posted by CTScott and it worked!! Thanks a lot. Can anyone tell md why this happened? There must be a reason and also if someone can explain the meaning of other modes in the reset procedure CONFIRMATION & PROHIBITION. Thankssss
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:15 PM   #20
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CTScott, You are a gem! Thanks a lot!!

Just used the procedure to get things working again with the car key.
My car key battery went dead after about 5 years. Took me a while to replace the dead battery and was using the key physically to open and close the door for a while. Replaced the battery in the key CR2016, but did not work, even though the light in the key blinked. So followed your instructions, I had selected 3 - Confirmation at step 7. there was a response after step 8 - that was very encouraging.
I went back and tried the "2 - rewrite" mode, but it did not work for me. Then tried "1 - Add" option at step 8. And this worked. Each time the number of lock - unlock cycles was different - may be that means something - don't know - and I failed to count.
Anyway, choosing option 1 worked. So very happy and wanted to say thank you.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:18 AM   #21
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Thank you CTScott, you helped me fix my keyless entry! More power!
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Old 08-11-2012, 06:15 PM   #22
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Remote randomly stopped working--- now fixed. Thank you CTScott!!

The dealership told me the transmitter was broken after a quick test and battery change. They quoted me $200 for a new transmitter, and $100 to "reprogram" it.. $300 fix..

I printed off your instructions and 90 seconds later, working perfectly again!

Huge money saver
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Old 09-11-2012, 08:29 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by gilliganberry View Post
Just read your instructions to fix the remote key and it didn't work for me. BUT a friend suggested to take off the positive cable off the battery for about 60 seconds and then reconnect. Voila it worked. It was sort of rebooting the computer.
Worked for me too and took 2minutes!
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Old 11-09-2012, 11:55 AM   #24
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We have a keyless 1.3 T Spirt (UK) and the door locking cycles about 5 times before it will unlock the door. also the offside rear door won't unlock at all. I assume this may be conected

Any ideas please
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Old 11-09-2012, 01:46 PM   #25
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We have a keyless 1.3 T Spirt (UK) and the door locking cycles about 5 times before it will unlock the door. also the offside rear door won't unlock at all. I assume this may be conected

Any ideas please
Sounds like you have some mechanical issues with that rear lock. Replacing or unbinding it will likely solve the cycling issue as well.
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Old 11-10-2012, 08:58 AM   #26
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What, Factory Keyless entry?

All, read each post about this situation.

We just bought a 2010 Yaris. It came with two regular keys. Noticed a flashing red light on the dash board. It looked to me like it's for an alarm.

My key, I believe the manual says is called a Type B (Non-Keyless). Anyone know where I can get the proper Keyless Keys and/or how to verify I have a keyless system.

We do have power windows and locks. Also noticed that I have a Tach. Read on another post that this was as issue. Is it only for older Yaris'?

Thank you in advance. Hoping I can add the Keyless system to our car at the lowest price possible.

Paul
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:58 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by screenprintr View Post
All, read each post about this situation.

We just bought a 2010 Yaris. It came with two regular keys. Noticed a flashing red light on the dash board. It looked to me like it's for an alarm.

My key, I believe the manual says is called a Type B (Non-Keyless). Anyone know where I can get the proper Keyless Keys and/or how to verify I have a keyless system.

We do have power windows and locks. Also noticed that I have a Tach. Read on another post that this was as issue. Is it only for older Yaris'?

Thank you in advance. Hoping I can add the Keyless system to our car at the lowest price possible.

Paul
The flashing light is the engine immobilizer (which is the system with the RFID transponder in the key).

You can check with a Toyota dealership (or PM me your VIN) to see if the car was built with the keyless entry. Chances are that it was not, since you received normal keys. Upgrading a non-keyless one with OEM parts is crazy expensive (over $300 just for the parts required). Your best bet, if it doesn't have keyless, is to add an aftermarket keyless entry system. The one that I installed on my 09 (which had power, but not keyless) was less than $70 and is also remote start.
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Old 11-10-2012, 10:08 AM   #28
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Keyless

Thank you Scott.

What do you mean by, your Aftermarket had Power, but no keyless? What is the brand name.

I'm at work now, but will check the VIN after work and send it to you. Thank you for your help.

Paul
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:35 PM   #29
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Thank you Scott.

What do you mean by, your Aftermarket had Power, but no keyless? What is the brand name.

I'm at work now, but will check the VIN after work and send it to you. Thank you for your help.

Paul
I meant that my 09 Yaris came with power locks and windows, but without keyless entry, so I added keyless entry/remote start myself. I bought an UltraStart XR1280, which is still working perfectly, 4 years later.

I just installed a super cheap Avistar keyless entry unit on my 08 Yaris (which I also added power locks and windows to), and that unit works fine, but doesn't have the range of the UltraStart.
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Old 03-23-2013, 05:18 AM   #30
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Scott, it is possible to order an oem keyless for 300? If so, i am so going for it.
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Old 03-23-2013, 07:39 AM   #31
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Scott, it is possible to order an oem keyless for 300? If so, i am so going for it.
It actually would be quite a bit more than that. I recently acquired an OEM keyless entry receiver to experiment with and found that besides it, the Body ECU has to be replaced with one that supports keyless entry (and the body ECU is within the under dash fuse panel).
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:24 AM   #32
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Hmmm... sounds like the whole nine yards to me that has to be replaced.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:29 AM   #33
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I recently sourced a keyless systems from singapore that cost bout 600 singaporean dollars. Now if i could just find that darn email.

Aha! Its singtech systems, anyone heard or actually used it before? If not i am going to be the test subject.

Last edited by japle; 03-24-2013 at 03:43 AM.
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:09 PM   #34
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It actually would be quite a bit more than that. I recently acquired an OEM keyless entry receiver to experiment with and found that besides it, the Body ECU has to be replaced with one that supports keyless entry (and the body ECU is within the under dash fuse panel).
Sending u a pm on this.
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Before it was totaled I drove a 2007 Black Sand Pearl 3 Door Lift-Back M/T with 49k miles. Stock Everything except for black tint, all red badges, red dash, and stealth garage door opener. Ultra-Gauge mounted on steering wheel. A1 Electric MES Central Locks and Avital 3100 Alarm system.
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Old 11-04-2013, 03:52 AM   #35
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Hi all,

I seem to be having some troubles with my drivers door (Factory) key-less entry.

It's an 08 2 door hatch, when ever I use the remote it will lock or unlock the passenger and hatch doors but nothing happens in the drivers door. Can't hear it do anything inside the door.

I tried the procedure posted by CTScott and it didn't fix, Dome fuse is fine which I expected.

I can use the key to enter, but I'm super lazy and I'm starting to get over it and the dealership just wants to take my money.

Any help appreciated.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:56 AM   #36
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Hi all,

I seem to be having some troubles with my drivers door (Factory) key-less entry.

It's an 08 2 door hatch, when ever I use the remote it will lock or unlock the passenger and hatch doors but nothing happens in the drivers door. Can't hear it do anything inside the door.

I tried the procedure posted by CTScott and it didn't fix, Dome fuse is fine which I expected.

I can use the key to enter, but I'm super lazy and I'm starting to get over it and the dealership just wants to take my money.

Any help appreciated.


In your case with just that one door not working, you are looking at either a bad lock actuator or a damaged wire leading to it.
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