Oil Change Issue.

[The little red pill]

Also, changing the oil yourself gives you pride in your vehicle, and a sense of satisfaction in doing the job yourself. An oil change is the easiest maintenance item you can perform. I NEVER take my car somewhere to have the oil changed. I've had bad experiences with people putting too much oil in, not enough, spilling it all over the engine bay and then having my car smoke. Nope, just ME working on MY car thank you.

[Pitt Yaris]

Paying anyone to change your oil is a HUGE waste of money. An even bigger waste on the Yaris. I have done an oil change on 4 different family cars, and the Yaris is by far the easiest.

[Pitt Yaris]

Originally Posted by The little red pill

I NEVER take my car somewhere to have the oil changed. I've had bad experiences with people putting too much oil in, not enough, spilling it all over the engine bay and then having my car smoke. Nope, just ME working on MY car thank you.

One reason I change my own oil is because it's easy and I'm cheap. The second and just as important reason is garages overfilling/underfilling/etc. as you said.

[rningonfumes]

Originally Posted by Ramblin yari

I paid $42 for an oil change, filter and tire rotation & balance. $60-$70 bucks would make me crawl under the car and do it myself.

20 buck oil changes for Dino and satisfactory filters already has put me under the car. The 60-70 buck changes are the average for all the dealors around here. There is Claremont Toyota who gives free changes for 3 years if you buy from them...but even if I did get my Yaris there, it's about 20-30 miles from me.

As someone else has already meantioned, I change my own oil so I can be touch with what's up with my car. There's something about looking, feeling, poking, pulling..etc on different things to know what's up with your car.

[NJBob]

Yeah, I change my own oil cheaper with synthetic than reg oil at Grease Monkey. If you shop you can get a good pure synth and filter for $25. Voorhees? We're almost neighbors.

[socko]

Originally Posted by Pitt Yaris

One reason I change my own oil is because it's easy and I'm cheap. The second and just as important reason is garages overfilling/underfilling/etc. as you said.

And it's even easier if you remove the oil pan drain plug and put in a Fumoto oil drain valve (for about $20). Then, when you change oil, all you have to do to drain is to open the valve.

[07WYarisRS]

I run my car on Amsoil and change it twice a year...
you have to change the oil every 3000 miles not because Toyota says so, but because thats what the normal drain interval is for most dino/mineral based oils.

Providing you keep the reciepts and follow the recommended drain intervals of the oil you are using and records of the mileage etc they CAN NOT deny you warranty...
The 0w-20 Amsoil I use has a 25,000 mile or 1 year change interval...
I change it arpox every 15,000 KM (10k miles ) I change it once in the fall and once in the spring.

[Twistoffate0817]

Originally Posted by NJBob

Yeah, I change my own oil cheaper with synthetic than reg oil at Grease Monkey. If you shop you can get a good pure synth and filter for $25. Voorhees? We're almost neighbors.

Yep, Voorhees. :P I know nothing about cars, and i dont feel safe messing with my car trying to change the oil.

[neo3.142]

which is a better oil to use syntec, mobil1, royal purple, red line?

[NJBob]

Originally Posted by Twistoffate0817

Yep, Voorhees. :P I know nothing about cars, and i dont feel safe messing with my car trying to change the oil.

I understand. I never used to do mine in my last car because it was hard to reach. LOL

which is a better oil to use syntec, mobil1, royal purple, red line?

I'd say they're all good as long as it's pure synthetic. Just go for what's on sale. You have plenty of time between changes to price shop between oil changes. Royal Purple is over priced in my book. There are lots of guys here who know better than me. Let's hide and watch.

[07WYarisRS]

Redline and Amsoil are about the top 2

oils as classified in 5 groups

group I oils are the cheap junk like castrol GTX, Q state etc
group II oils are better nown as syntheitc blends as they are a mix of group I and group III oils
Group III oils are what 99% of synthetic oils are made of... These oils are synthetic oils made from mineral/crude oil. Most use the hydro cracking method and use heavy amounts of pure synthtic base stocks as additives. Group III are far better then any group I or II oil. Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 are examples of group III synthetics.

Group IV ~ V These are the best of the best and are not actually oil. these are lubricants but called oils to not confuse the mass public...These are not pumped out of the ground, instead and made by folks in white lab coats. Most contain extremely small amounts of mineral oil or no mineral oil at all. Group IV synthetics are POA based ( Polyalphaolefin )
group V are usually Ester based synthetics

Redline and Amsoil products are bother a group IV-V synthetic and contain no mineral oil. This eliminates any mineral by products that oxidize and form sludge and engine deposits.
I should point out BOTH buy their synthetic stock from Exxon/mobil1 so you know even though the formulas are different the base stocks use in Mobil1, Amsoil and Redline are all the same.
Royal purple Racing oils are group IV-V however the regular stuff is group III...

If you can't find or afford a group IV-V synthetic... be sure to use a quality group III like Mobil 1.
My #1 choise is Amsoil, Redline is also great but far fewer products available
don't forget... the engine is just 1/2 of it... be sure to change the transmission fluid as well. 75W-90 for the Manual trans and the universal ATF for the auto's.

[Yaris Hilton]

$60-70 is the going rate for dealership oil changes?! Holy cow! That's double what the independent shops here charge. (Let alone doing it myself, which I've done for most of my life.) So much for getting all the service done at the dealer while the warranty lasts!

[NJBob]

Originally Posted by Yaris Hilton

$60-70 is the going rate for dealership oil changes?! Holy cow! That's double what the independent shops here charge. (Let alone doing it myself, which I've done for most of my life.) So much for getting all the service done at the dealer while the warranty lasts!

Salesmen say that's where all their money comes from.....service. They wanted to charge me $90 just to reset my Tire Pressure Sensors. A year later, I'm still seeing the yellow warning light. LOL

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS

Redline and Amsoil are about the top 2

oils as classified in 5 groups

group I oils are the cheap junk like castrol GTX, Q state etc
group II oils are better nown as syntheitc blends as they are a mix of group I and group III oils
Group III oils are what 99% of synthetic oils are made of... These oils are synthetic oils made from mineral/crude oil. Most use the hydro cracking method and use heavy amounts of pure synthtic base stocks as additives. Group III are far better then any group I or II oil. Castrol Syntec and Mobil 1 are examples of group III synthetics.

Group IV ~ V These are the best of the best and are not actually oil. these are lubricants but called oils to not confuse the mass public...These are not pumped out of the ground, instead and made by folks in white lab coats. Most contain extremely small amounts of mineral oil or no mineral oil at all. Group IV synthetics are POA based ( Polyalphaolefin )
group V are usually Ester based synthetics

Redline and Amsoil products are bother a group IV-V synthetic and contain no mineral oil. This eliminates any mineral by products that oxidize and form sludge and engine deposits.
I should point out BOTH buy their synthetic stock from Exxon/mobil1 so you know even though the formulas are different the base stocks use in Mobil1, Amsoil and Redline are all the same.
Royal purple Racing oils are group IV-V however the regular stuff is group III...

If you can't find or afford a group IV-V synthetic... be sure to use a quality group III like Mobil 1.
My #1 choise is Amsoil, Redline is also great but far fewer products available
don't forget... the engine is just 1/2 of it... be sure to change the transmission fluid as well. 75W-90 for the Manual trans and the universal ATF for the auto's.

Just one thing to add: Amsoil's cheaper XL series isn't group IV, it's group III, as mentioned on their website.

[1stToyota]

Originally Posted by NJBob

Salesmen say that's where all their money comes from.....service. They wanted to charge me $90 just to reset my Tire Pressure Sensors. A year later, I'm still seeing the yellow warning light. LOL

Our sensors don't need to be reset. Must be a bad sensor or a fault in the system.

[TheRealEnth]

woah thats crazy.. over here people are hustling with the economy.. You can easily get an oil change for 17.99... and with synthetic u can hold out 7-15k fine with our yarii... but if you are paranoid, just stick with 5k... 3k is too close

[NJBob]

Originally Posted by 1stToyota

Our sensors don't need to be reset. Must be a bad sensor or a fault in the system.

I bought "S" wheels from "RocklandToyota" and put my steelies away for winter. The light came on when I changed.

[Giobatera]

Originally Posted by TheRealEnth

woah thats crazy.. over here people are hustling with the economy.. You can easily get an oil change for 17.99... and with synthetic u can hold out 7-15k fine with our yarii... but if you are paranoid, just stick with 5k... 3k is too close

I agreed with TheRealEnth. I'll NEVER, EVER, EVER pay $60-$70 for an oil change. That is INSAINE.....
The best way to handle this is just go to WALMART, get a nice Full Syntetic and DO IT YOUR SELF