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Old 07-19-2018, 06:30 PM   #1
06YarisRS
 
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Help! Cruise Not Working After Spiral Cable Install (FIXED)

I took the '06 in for 5 recalls today. When I got it out on the highway I noticed my cruise no longer worked. I took it back to Toyota and naturally they said they did nothing to it other than unplugging and replugging the cable. I got it home and removed the steering wheel cover and all my wiring looks intact. I reseated the plugs. I have 12 volts at the red wire that comes out of the spiral cable to the cc stalk. My wiring lower in the steering column looks fine as well as my ground. The wire going to the ECU connector in the engine bay is also there. I see two possible options but would appreciate suggestions:

1) the stalk broke

2) the 'new' spiral cable is in some way incompatible with the cc system.

The dealer gave me the song and dance and wanted to charge me for 'diagnosing' the problem. I said basically, I used the cc to get here and after you worked on it, it doesn't work.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-19-2018, 07:02 PM   #2
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Take it back to the dealer and raise holy hell!
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by NYC-SE View Post
Take it back to the dealer and raise holy hell!
I just may do that. I didn't have time to hang around today as we were heading out of town. The service manager came out told me that there was a recall and that they were told to remove all cruise controls from Toyota cars. I asked for a reference to the recall and he couldn't give me one. So, I asked him if they disconnected mine and he said "no". Buncha BS imo.
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Old 07-19-2018, 10:31 PM   #4
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Mind of Toyota clips claws wiring harness connectors

go over the dealers heads and call the 800 phone number in the back of the owner's manual
(yes, what told may be all true, but Toyota wiring harness connecters are all different from each other, the two halves fit very tight, and how to release the tiny and often recessed locking claw is a complete mystery...not in the factory manual. so invites mechanics to get pissed and pry/yank to get the connectors apart. which, duh, isn't good for them.)

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Old 07-19-2018, 10:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
go over the dealers heads and call the 800 phone number in the back of the owner's manual
(yes, what told may be all true, but Toyota wiring harness connecters are all different from each other and how to release the locking claw is a complete mystery...not in factory manual. so invites mechanics to get pissed and pry/yank to get the connectors apart. which, duh, isn't good for them.)
Thanks. I'll call the dealer back and if they don't offer to fix it, I'll then call customer service.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:50 AM   #6
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Aftermarket cruise control or stock? I remember hearing about them removing the aftermarket Rostra systems from some of the Yarii and other cars for some reason.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:44 AM   #7
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Aftermarket cruise control or stock? I remember hearing about them removing the aftermarket Rostra systems from some of the Yarii and other cars for some reason.
I'm not 100% sure. I got it from CT Scott here on the site. I think it is OEM.
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Old 07-20-2018, 07:45 AM   #8
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Does anyone know how to test the stalk with a multimeter?
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Old 07-20-2018, 10:47 PM   #9
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Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:09 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
Thanks very much!!! I will do this testing and report back. Cheers!
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Old 07-21-2018, 10:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Yes, it's easy to test.

Unplug the control stalk and connect your multimeter on ohms range across the contacts onthe plug.

With nothing operated, it should be open curcuit.

Press the "on/off" button on the end of the stalk, and you should see 0 ohms - a short circuit.

The "set/decelerate" position should read between 567 and 693 ohms.
The "resume/accelerate" position should read between 216 and 264 ohms.
The "cancel" position should read between 1386 and 1690 ohms.
Once again, Thanks for this. I will be back home in a day or two and will tackle this. If you don't mind, could you clarify a few things for me?

When you say the contacts on the plug, do you mean the end of the wire that comes from the stalk and plugs into the clock spring? If so, is there just two terminals I need to concern myself with? I think the horn wire comes out of that too.

Secondly, Should the readings be different when the stalk button is in the "on" and "off" positions? If so, one position should be 0 ohms. What should it be in the other position?

I really appreciate the help with this.

Adam
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Old 07-21-2018, 11:04 PM   #12
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Adam,

You only need to test between the two pine
S in the plug. Ignore the horn wire for this test.

All the switch functions on the stalk are momentary. If the stalk is in its rest postion, you should not see any connection between the pins. You should see a short circuit while pressing the On/Off button, and the other values I mentioned before when operating the stalk to one of the Set/Resume/Cancel positions.

If you can find connector C3 in the steering column, it should have only 2 wires in it, blue and brown. With the ignition swithed on, shorting these 2 wires should turn on or off the cruise control indicator light in the instrument cluster.

Hope you get it working soon. I would be lost without my cruise control.
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
Adam,

You only need to test between the two pine
S in the plug. Ignore the horn wire for this test.

All the switch functions on the stalk are momentary. If the stalk is in its rest postion, you should not see any connection between the pins. You should see a short circuit while pressing the On/Off button, and the other values I mentioned before when operating the stalk to one of the Set/Resume/Cancel positions.

If you can find connector C3 in the steering column, it should have only 2 wires in it, blue and brown. With the ignition swithed on, shorting these 2 wires should turn on or off the cruise control indicator light in the instrument cluster.

Hope you get it working soon. I would be lost without my cruise control.
Thanks! I don't have the indicator light as I opted out of that in the kit. Kinda wishing I'd got that now. When I first looked at this - after the dealer worked on it - I did get around 12 V on the red wire coming out of the clock spring (multimeter probe on the red wire pin and black grounded on teh steering column). I am hoping that that is all that is required to make the clock spring compatible with CC. I fear that my new clockspring does not have the necessary wire for the CC. Not sure if another wire can be run from elsewhere if this clock spring is not compatible.
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:59 PM   #14
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OK, I have tested the stalk and here are my readings:

resume/accelerate - 238 Ohms
set/decelerate - 627 Ohms
cancel - 1532 Ohms
On/off - 1 or 0 Ohms

I'm guessing that I can count on the stalk being good.

The clockspring the dealer installed has 3 pins - horn (yellow wire in top left position), black and red (from CC stalk) in lower position left to right respectively.





Tomorrow I will check the wire that goes to the ECU as suggested by both Kevinj93 and CT Scott. Thanks again gentlemen for the invaluable help!
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 07-22-2018 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 07-23-2018, 03:50 AM   #15
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If it's a manual transmission, you might also want to check the switch on the clutch pedal. This should be closed (zero resistance across the contacts) when the pedal is released. If this switch is open circuit, or the wiring is disconnected, the cruise control will not engage.
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Old 07-23-2018, 06:26 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinj93 View Post
If it's a manual transmission, you might also want to check the switch on the clutch pedal. This should be closed (zero resistance across the contacts) when the pedal is released. If this switch is open circuit, or the wiring is disconnected, the cruise control will not engage.
It's an automatic. Thankfully, one less thing to check!

Thanks!
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:19 PM   #17
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The dealer is at least working with me now. Their shop foreman also believes the problem lies with the new spiral cable. They offered to pay for a used spiral cable as they claim they cannot get one of the 'older style' spiral cables. Of course they cannot install it. It seems that my car originally came with a #84306-22010 and the new one is a #0400407122. A call back to the dealer parts dept to confirm the original part number from my car and the counter guy says he can order the original for $438.00. So, once again, conflicting info from the service manager. Hmmm.

I ordered a #84306-22010 from eBay for $11.00. We shall see how it works.
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Old 08-01-2018, 05:02 PM   #18
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The new aftermarket clock spring (Toyota Part #84306-22010) restored my cruise control.

It was a very simple job, using this video as a guide - especially 'calibrating' the spiral cable after installation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUapQVygKRU
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