sound deadening: sq footage amount for 3dr

[goku87]

I was thinking about getting approx. 80 sq ft. Is that enough or should I get more? thanks in advance.

[supmet]

I think it depends on how extreme you want to go. I think you could get away with anything from 50-200 sq ft.

Check out this thread, there are 3 set ups and the people said how much they used.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10239

[talnlnky]

if you are careful about where you place it... you can get away with less, but really... just go with 30% more than what you think you'll need, and you'll be glad you did.

if you're going to do it.... do it ONCE... and only once. Each time you take your car apart the pieces become more and more prone to rattle. In a perfect world we could buy our cars with all the trim off & no stock sound system... so we could install all the mat we want, save time, and then put the trim pieces in place ONCE and never touch them again.

[goku87]

Originally Posted by supmet

I think it depends on how extreme you want to go. I think you could get away with anything from 50-200 sq ft.

Check out this thread, there are 3 set ups and the people said how much they used.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10239

awesome. thanks!

Originally Posted by talnlnky

if you are careful about where you place it... you can get away with less, but really... just go with 30% more than what you think you'll need, and you'll be glad you did.

if you're going to do it.... do it ONCE... and only once. Each time you take your car apart the pieces become more and more prone to rattle. In a perfect world we could buy our cars with all the trim off & no stock sound system... so we could install all the mat we want, save time, and then put the trim pieces in place ONCE and never touch them again.

that would indeed be cool.

[goku87]

and one more question: is there a major benifit from doing the roof?

i've read that it varies depending on vehicle, and i was thinking, being a hatchback the roof is probably pretty well reinforced so it might not have that much vibration to begin with.

[sqcomp]

I'd say that depends on how extreme the system is. I'll be doing my roof simply because I'm a little crazy about my noise floor...noting that the Yaris is a LOUD vehicle. I'll only have two 12" woofers though...with NO room taken from the center of the trunk.

[fuji]

As another person who has used extensive sound dampening, it makes a big difference. Just remember what each material is for.

Dampeners - you do not need to apply this to all the surfaces. It is meant to cut down on the vibrations and noise carried by the metal. Covering a surface approx 75% should be just fine. The doors make a big difference.

Barriers - This a material you should try to get as much coverage as possible. I would recommend either second skin audio luxlury liner pro or Cascade audio VB-4 lead septum. Remember sound will find any cracks to leak through. Covering the floors and if you can access the firewall will make a huge difference.

Absorbers - does exactly what it sounds like they do. If you can find some memory foam on the internet, you can put it in the rear quarter panels and in the rear. Makes a pretty big difference as well. Do not use this in the doors as it will absorb water!

Take your time and the rewards are tremendous. My Yaris is far quieter than stock!

Another thing that can make a big difference is second skin audio liquid dampener. It is tough enough to use as a undercoat. It works really well in the wheel wells and can also be used as a undercoat. Road noise kills audio sounds!

[WolfWings]

Originally Posted by goku87

and one more question: is there a major benifit from doing the roof?

i've read that it varies depending on vehicle, and i was thinking, being a hatchback the roof is probably pretty well reinforced so it might not have that much vibration to begin with.

Our roof is a single, unreinforced expanse of sheetmetal. The headliner has large bars of styrofoam that keep it tensed and add some pressure to the roof-panel, but it's one giant metal cymbal. Laying a single layer of good-quality sound dampener is worth it, IMHO, especially if you go for something that's highly cost-effective like RaaMAT. I bought two rolls of it, and 6 yards of their closed-cell foam, went the 100% sealed route on both doors.

The real trick on doors is stick some mat down, make sure the windows work still, knock all over the door, stick more mat wherever it still goes 'ting' instead of 'thud' and keep going until your knuckles are sore or until your run out of mat. Only downside: Your doors will weigh a full 50% more than they started with, so they're noticably harder to 'get going' to pull closed. I only did my drivers-side door before winter set in and am about to finish up the passenger-side door, I'll get a recording of the noise of slamming one door versus the other, and knocking on the door-panel all over to demonstrate the difference. As for the back area, having a daring friend with a good ear willing to ride around in the naked rear to listen for where the noise comes from will let you find out where to layer more soundproofing down in a hurry.

Side-tip if you don't have to worry about power locks and what-not: A tube of silicone sealant for exterior windows, and a couple of the giant-sized 'for sale' signs from wal mart are excellent for putting down a semi-permenant barrier to fully seal your door with soundproofing. Careful trimming, bead of silicone, go grab a sandwich while it sets up a bit, work the locks and door-handle repeatedly to make sure it's not jammed anywhere, then go to town laying down a double-layer of narrow strips of the sound dampener, then a layer of the foam, good to go.

[pennyracer]

lay it thick you cant go wrong with sound deadning a yais :) [IMG][/IMG]

[sqcomp]

Penny...that picture is a thing of beauty! Is that yours? If so, how much deadening did you use?

Another idea that is proven is to buy a dash mat. Not just a dash mat but also add some ensolite, Dynaliner (or Extremeliner), or Luxury Liner (or LL pro)...trim it to fit the bottom of the mat and glue it on and stich it in.

This is especially helpful if you have pillar mounted speakers as it helps reduce sound reflections from the windshield and off the dash itself.

[pennyracer]

a hell of a lot :) yes thats mine i love sound deadning the car its almost better than the stereo system it self maybe not i have a pretty nice set up but its always the way to go to help the kill rattles and road noise maybe you have seen these pics before this is car and you need all the sound proofing you can get in a yaris


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[dccurrent]

So where is the most effective place to lay down some sound deadener? I am trying to reduce engine and road noise. I assume the doors are a good first place to apply the adhesive. Am I correct in my assessment?

[talnlnky]

firewall - though it is a bitch
wheel wells/strut area
floor boards
doors

if you have more time and material...
side panels (especially on the Liftback)
and roof.


the great thing about the yaris is that our roof is REALLY small, so the noise from it is nothing compared to say an SUV.


I'm looking forward to adding 20sq ft to each door and sealing them up, 20more sq ft to the firewall.

and then adding the window vent shades (which people claim cut down on wind noise)

When cruising on a nice road I mainly only hear wind noise.... Car is alot quieter than stock (when I run stock PSI in the tires... i'm run 40+ now).

[dccurrent]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

firewall - though it is a bitch
wheel wells/strut area
floor boards
doors

if you have more time and material...
side panels (especially on the Liftback)
and roof.


the great thing about the yaris is that our roof is REALLY small, so the noise from it is nothing compared to say an SUV.


I'm looking forward to adding 20sq ft to each door and sealing them up, 20more sq ft to the firewall.

and then adding the window vent shades (which people claim cut down on wind noise)

When cruising on a nice road I mainly only hear wind noise.... Car is alot quieter than stock (when I run stock PSI in the tires... i'm run 40+ now).

Thanks for the quick reply. I am already familiar with how to apply the material to the doors, but for the life of me I can't find not one source online that tells you how to apply it to the firewall. Do you know of any source that explains the process? To tell you the truth I am not even sure what constitutes a firewall to begin with!

For the wheel wells, what do you recommend? I know they make sprays you can apply, but there are so many it's very difficult to choose wisely when doing this for the first time with no experience.

I have also read that people applied material to the hood of their cars. Is this effective in any way in reducing cabin noise? Sorry for bombarding you with questions! Thanks again.

[talnlnky]

Originally Posted by dccurrent

Thanks for the quick reply. I am already familiar with how to apply the material to the doors, but for the life of me I can't find not one source online that tells you how to apply it to the firewall. Do you know of any source that explains the process? To tell you the truth I am not even sure what constitutes a firewall to begin with!

For the wheel wells, what do you recommend? I know they make sprays you can apply, but there are so many it's very difficult to choose wisely when doing this for the first time with no experience.

I have also read that people applied material to the hood of their cars. Is this effective in any way in reducing cabin noise? Sorry for bombarding you with questions! Thanks again.

Firewall- basically, the part that starts as the floor board, but then ends up being vertical instead of horizontal. The sheet metal that divides the engine compartment from your feet/legs/knees.
You pull up the carpet from the floor boards, and get up underneath the dash as much as possible.... Not going to lie... its a bitch on toyotas.


for around the wheels... two things you can do, Buy sprays and spray it from the outside of the car (have to remove the wheels and jack up the car). On the inside you just lay down mat & foam if you have it too.

[WolfWings]

On the 3-door liftback, the most 'bang for your buck' areas are in my experience:

The 'rear door' areas if you have the 3-door model. Basically the cavernous area behind the rear speakers, layer that down thick, and it's relatively easy to get that body panel off and back on again.

The rear hatch, actually. Once the above was handled, that was the next major area of noise we found. Didn't seal it up, wasn't needed. Just use lots of small bits, and the rap test a LOT. Suddenly it'll have enough mass in the right places and no more rattle.

Driver-side door.

Rear wheel-wells on the inside, though this requires taking the rear seat and rear seat-belts out including the 3rd-passenger one, which isn't that easy.

Passenger-side door. Make it more important than the rear wheel-wells on the inside if you usually have multiple people in the car.

If you've done all this, you have everything except the headliner removed already. Drop it, do the roof while you're in there. All this so far (excluding the doors) is one day's work for 2 rank newbs to accomplish easilly. One door fully sealed and foamed to hell and back is 2 hours work or so for a single person, again assuming rank newb.

Only thing I have left to do is yank the front seats out and the dashboard (I'll be doing that all at once since I need to run some in-dash stuff) and hit the firewall and front floorboards then, along with the passenger-side door.

[dccurrent]

Originally Posted by talnlnky

Firewall- basically, the part that starts as the floor board, but then ends up being vertical instead of horizontal. The sheet metal that divides the engine compartment from your feet/legs/knees.
You pull up the carpet from the floor boards, and get up underneath the dash as much as possible.... Not going to lie... its a bitch on toyotas.


for around the wheels... two things you can do, Buy sprays and spray it from the outside of the car (have to remove the wheels and jack up the car). On the inside you just lay down mat & foam if you have it too.

Thank you very much!

[dccurrent]

Does anyone know how much clearance there is between the window ans the outer skin of the door? I found some closed cell foam online and it comes in various thicknesses. I was wondering how thick I can go without interfering with the window rolling down.

You can find the stuff here:http://www.closedcellfoams.com/polyethylene.html