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Old 10-19-2010, 09:59 PM   #1
SimTronik
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Degreasing

What is the best solution to remove dust and grease before painting.
(Planning to paint my steelies)

What is the best to sand it too for a perfect job?
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:29 PM   #2
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brake cleaner
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:59 PM   #3
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alcohol.
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:16 PM   #4
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your local Autozone, NAPA or about any auto parts store should have a Pre-Paint Cleaner in stock, better yet, find an auto paint supply store to get the correct cleaner for your job.
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:37 PM   #5
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Cool thanks, and what about for sanding before painting, what is the best to use?
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:50 AM   #6
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no more than 500 grit to finish. 220 to start, then 320.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:10 AM   #7
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Funny, last nite was looking for the same type product to remove LSP prior to corrective polishing and sealing of my car. Isopropyl Alcohol/water mix is okay if there isn't alot of stubborn stuff, don't forget mineral spirits (Home Depot/Lowes @$8.00/gal). My web surfing last nite found that most painters go with a wax and grease remover prior to paint. Two I found are Omni MX 190 and PPG Dx 330. Think I'm gonna stick with the mineral spirits if these 2 are costly.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:31 AM   #8
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if your wheels are free of rust and are in excellent condtion I would just use 3M gray scuffing pads.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:37 AM   #9
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Yes thats what i bought first prior starting this topic. My car is a 2010 and are absolutely rust free. Its a pad with some spongy abrasive lol Don't know how to describe that but it was for using before painting. My concern is really the cleaning part because i don't the paint to peel out.
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Old 10-20-2010, 01:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimTronik View Post
My concern is really the cleaning part because i don't the paint to peel out.
that's true but without proper paint etching there's a good chance the paint will flake off also.
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Old 10-20-2010, 04:38 PM   #11
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oh.. :) I'll take care of that then.
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:22 PM   #12
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I would use wax remover/degreaser comes in a spray can so. You could use brake cleaner/degreaser instead then dry it, hit it with a green scotch pad to put a key on it. If you dissolve some of the black paint that's fine just don't go down to metal. If you went down you'll have to hit that area with some primer.

Then spray it down, 1 coat then let it dry. Wait 20 mins hit it again with a 2nd coat and by then everything should be black. Sometimes you could just hit it with some grey primer if you wanted, just so you know you got enough paint on it. Spraying black on black, it will be hard to tell if you got it all, you'll have to go off of glare. Just make sure your its 65F or higher, otherwise you'll need like a heat light or something to dry it or it will take forever. A cheap heat lamp is just get a construction flood housing (6 bucks) and then head to the bulbs section and get the infrared/heat lamp (100W). Screw it in, aim it and plug it in, wah, lah.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:07 PM   #13
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great, i bought the pre paint wax and grease remover. I got 3m pre paint abrasive. I plan to paint light gray mettalic or something. I bought white primer, gray paint and clear glossy coat.

I will do this in the house basement.
Thanks for advises.
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:02 PM   #14
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post some pics when you're done.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:10 PM   #15
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Yeah for sure :)
I just ordered some of those beauty abs chrome ring too. I just can't find center caps to hide the center screw.
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:36 AM   #16
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let it dry completely before putting on the clear coat. Make sure the paint and the clear coat are made by the same manufacturer and read the directions.

Generally you let it sit then do the clear coat, unless directions state otherwise, you'll get runs if you do it while its almost dry and fainly tacky but not enough to leave prints.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:30 AM   #17
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Good advise.
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