TAIL,REAR,LICENCE LIGHTS NOT WORKING

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bouYaris

I can get one
which type of mesurement and how
thanks

OK. Go ahead and get your hands on one. What we will do is work our way through the flow of current to figure out where the problem is. There are about half a dozen connections between the initial power feed, switch and lights.

[bouYaris]

ok
I have the Multimeter now

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bouYaris

ok
I have the Multimeter now

OK. Let's start with the following:

1. With the headlight switch on or off, Measure the voltage on the white wire in pin 13 of the headlight switch connector. Touch the red lead to the pin where the wire enters the back of the connector. hold the black lead against a chassis ground point (Metal structure under the dash or any white wire with a black stripe).

2. With the headlight switch on, measure the voltage on the green wire in pin 10 of the headlight switch connector.

[bouYaris]

Done the check wonder if done correctly

with Multimeter on 20V diret current
first check done with headlight connector (Disconnected from switch )
where the wire enters the back of the connector
Pin13 = 12.37
Pin 10 = 0
see picture
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

I put the connector back
with swith ON
pin13 = 12.28
pin10 = 12.28

with swtich OFF
pin13 = 12.36
pin10 = 0

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by bouYaris

Done the check wonder if done correctly

with Multimeter on 20V diret current
first check done with headlight connector (Disconnected from switch )
where the wire enters the back of the connector
Pin13 = 12.37
Pin 10 = 0
see picture
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

I put the connector back
with swith ON
pin13 = 12.28
pin10 = 12.28

with swtich OFF
pin13 = 12.36
pin10 = 0

Perfect! OK - So, the power feed (fuse) is good. The switch is also good.

Now, let's jump to the back of the car and see what we see at the tail light connector.

With the headlight switch on, on the tail light connector measure the voltage between the green wire (red lead) and the white wire with a black stripe (black lead).

[bouYaris]

Hello
sorry for the late reply it been running a lot for the past days.
I finally did the tail light connector on the back of the car

on my car it look like this
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

this is the check with Headlight switch ON:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

voltage between the green wire (red lead) and the white wire with a black stripe (black lead) = 0

[CTScott]

OK. So you are losing power somewhere between the switch and the lights.

From the switch the next stop is Pin 10 of connector 4E of the under dash fuse panel (which is behind the small storage pocket on the left side of the dash).

Measure the voltage on the green wire in pin 10 (red on that pin and black on a white/black) with the headlight switch on.

If that measures OK, then next check the pink wire in Pin 33 of connector 4B.

Also check the grey wire in pin 10 of connector 4A.

Finally, check the green wire in pin 29 of Connector 4A.

[bouYaris]

test done
black lead on white/black Pin for all

Red lead
On connector 4E
Pin10(green)
headlight ON=12.3
headlight OFF=0

On connector 4B
Pin33 (for me is light brown NOT pink as you mentioned)
headlight ON=12.3
headlight OFF=0

On connector 4A
Pin10 (Grey)
headlight ON=12.3
headlight OFF=0

Pin29 (Green)
headlight ON=12.3
headlight OFF=0

Picture of the connector
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

[CTScott]

Very strange - All of the power distribution points for the parking light feed are fine, based on your readings. Each of those goes in a different direction

4E-10 is the input to the junction block from the switch, which also feeds the headlight indicator in the instrument cluster

4B-33 is the output to the front lamps

4A-10 is the output to the right side rear lamp

4A-29 is the output to the left side rear lamp

Each of these goes through a different wire to its endpoint, so unless multiple wires are pinched/cut, I don't know where the problem is.

Has any work been done under the dash of your car?

Also, does the headlight indicator light up in the instrument cluster?

[bouYaris]

Thanks again for your help
No work has been done to the car since I had the car
Yes the headlight indicator light up in the instrument cluster and sound when door open

I noticed that when unplugging the fuses
Panel 2 7.5A the open door sound goes OFF

same thing happen with fuse TAIL 10A

Is this normal?

picture of my Fuse box
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-A...ew?usp=sharing

[bouYaris]

Hello
any other other check before taking the car to Toyota Garage

[CTScott]

Unfortunately I am out of ideas. The fuse removal behavior makes sense.

[bouYaris]

Thanks CTScott for all your help

[bouYaris]

Problem solved
After checking someone car with Yaris 2007 (same year as mine) when he turn his switch (Tail light) he only had light at the back nothing on front
could be Issue with Yaris 2007

so I went back testing with Voltmeter the back wire of the car again
in fact this time I checked the YELLOW wire (Previously I checked the Green on but on my car this wire is for the Break that why it was on 0 volt when I tested)
Yellow wire with switch on is 12.3 v

Hard to get into this light bulb as I had to unscrew the whole system
Changed the lightbulb and it worked.

I had to do the same with the right side the light bulb has gone also.

Now I would guess there is no parking light on front only normal light when turning the switch again (2nd position)
I will investigate this
Thanks again for your help Scott

[Killchain]

CTScott, I just want to thank you for the help you do for us. I followed this thread you dealt with some things, but I saw your patience at work. Thanks from me(Mark) and all of YW.