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11-05-2015, 06:20 PM
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#19 |
 
Drives: '08 Yaris Sedan, Aero Package Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,720
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Braided SS lines, upgraded pads and sticky tires.
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots. 
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11-05-2015, 11:20 PM
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#20 |
Drives: NCP91 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 114
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Yaris brakes are crap.
The problem with the NCP91 Yaris is that the brake disk cannot endure sustained and repeated stops. The Japanese RS and some European RS/TS models were slightly better due to rear disk. The current NCP131 Yaris RS/SE has larger front brakes to address the known issue. I set a personal record in September for the shortest OEM front brake disk life, which was 19 days since new. I've taken some heat (no pun intended) about something being wrong with my installation or break-in procedure because others have experienced no issues with their brakes during autocross events... Bullshit. I'm the one driving my car. Not them. Doing 180 km/h to zero stops repeatedly does wonders to the material limits of our factory braking system. Your options are to improve cooling or swap in front brakes from the NCP131. |
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11-06-2015, 12:16 AM
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#21 | ||
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Pumpman
Drives: 2019 Kia Soul EV Base Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 434
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Quote:
Quote:
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"I would rather loose by a mile in a car I built myself, then win by an inch in a car that was built for me." - Moog |
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11-06-2015, 09:58 AM
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#22 |
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1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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I just replaced some very old slotted rotors that I kept cleaning the rust off of every 6 months with Wagner premium rotors. They are very nice being all powder coated black on every surface except the brake pad contact area.
All I did was change rotors and immediately I had more braking power. Now that the slightly worn OEM Toyota pads have seated I think I've almost doubled the power. I also have rear discs. I only need to push my big toe onto the pedal to stop my car now, total night and day difference. |
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11-06-2015, 02:09 PM
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#23 | |
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Drives: 2015 H Production Yaris Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Debary, FL
Posts: 1,953
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Quote:
 What kind of event are you doing that has you going from 180 km/h to zero repeatedly? What kind of crap pads are you using? Nobody is working Yaris brakes harder than we are, and we have had zero issues with the OE rotors and calipers.
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2005-2008 SCCA Solo BS National Champion 2017-2018 SCCA H Prod National Champion 
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11-06-2015, 05:09 PM
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#24 |
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0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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The only time I've ever felt the brakes we're inadequate on the Yaris, were with the stock pads, driving through decker cyn road in Malibu. My rotor temps hit 700 degrees, hot enough where the paint on the brake pads caught on fire. Since I've switched pads, I've never felt the brakes as being lacking.
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2014 BSpec Divisional Champion |
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11-06-2015, 10:35 PM
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#25 | |
 
Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: savannah, ga
Posts: 2,868
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Quote:
Been autocrossing my Yaris since I bought it with 20 miles on the ticker. First autocross with my yaris had only 100 miles on it.. I literally autocross once a month since 2010 when I bought my car. I actually just changed out my brake pads the beginning of this year for Hawk HPS which in my opinion feel just like OEM but Hawk doesnt make HPS+. I still had about 30% life left in my OEM pads with 75k miles on my car....
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-Derrick- "Racing is important to men who do it well. When you're racing... It's life. Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting." 
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11-07-2015, 12:04 PM
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#26 |
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I make repeated high speed (90+mph) braking during my highway driving, along with dealing with heavy New York City stop and go traffic in the morning, I'm going on about 55,000 miles on JDM RS brakes and i'm literally about 2mm left on the pads. (Front are Hawks, rear are TOM's) There's your perspective, and don't judge, its how I drive. :)
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11-07-2015, 12:12 PM
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#27 | |
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Drives: 2009 Yaris Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Rigaud, Quebec, Can.
Posts: 357
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Quote:
Agree Jason and the best test bench is always the race track. Always appreciate the info you provide. As for slotted or drilled rotors.........useless. I spent some time at the track this summer and no one uses them. Drilled/slotted it's all show and no go. SS braided lines at the wheels and top quality pads/shoes.
__________________
 2009 Toyota Yaris (Little toy) 2002 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.0L (Big boy toy) 1998 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5 (winter & DD) |
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11-16-2015, 10:02 PM
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#28 |
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Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 1,000
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no one has made mention of corolla caliper/TS rotor? they are easy to come by and easy to get quality pads.
I plan to upgrade to the corolla calipers and ts rotors only because I live in Colorado and the brakes can heat up quick on the mountain roads. rear drums are fine by me; they last forever, (just sold a civic with original rear shoes, 325,000) and work just fine. I don't know how long shoes last on Toyotas, but i'd bet at least 200,000 miles. I have not heard the ncp131 calipers/rotors bolting up. i'm going to look into this. what is the size on the rotor? isn't it a 5 lug? i'm checking this out... |
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11-21-2015, 10:11 AM
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#29 |
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CLIFF
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I am hoing 134,000+ on my original brakes with squealing or grinding at all. But I just got a new set of everything. Now just waiting for the time to replace them.
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"who the cap fit let them wear it" 
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11-21-2015, 11:52 AM
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#30 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Every time I check my brakes and prep them for winter i'm always surprised at how much pad is left on them. The Yaris is ridiculously easy on brakes.
I'm looking forward to trying out some high performance pads once the OEM's wear down
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No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by... 
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11-22-2015, 12:09 PM
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#31 | |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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Quote:
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B] 
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11-22-2015, 12:17 PM
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#32 | |
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Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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Quote:
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track. So, understood on your points and thanks. More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list. But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive. That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so. To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice) 
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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11-22-2015, 12:27 PM
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#33 | |
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Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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Quote:
 would work. In other threads, it has been mentioned going to the Corolla caliper has provided for spongy brakes  For rear shoes going the distance, yes, I have seen them typically last two to three times the life of pads, as the fronts do most of the work (inertia and weight). But, if going longer than two to three times the pads, I would say they are out of adjustment. As for proper adjustment on most vehicles, rule of thumb is if E-brake goes more than half the travel of itself before useful, you are out of adjustment with rear drum brakes on cars. (some trucks need cable adjustment, about 5 times out of 100, based on my experience, most are in need of a clean and adjust) Best to do a clean and adjust with a dump, gentle watering off and a few clicks out, followed by a few hard stops backwards and recheck) (Some, like mine, need to have shoe come off of spring for new grease application where it rubs the backing plate SO IT STOPS SQUEAKING!  , OK.Hope this helps 
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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11-22-2015, 12:31 PM
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#34 |
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By all means go for the corolla front setup! It serves me well going on 5 yrs!
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11-22-2015, 12:34 PM
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#35 | |
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Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: the good Carolina
Posts: 173
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Quote:
__________________
2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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11-22-2015, 12:54 PM
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#36 |
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I made a post when I first did it...seach more stolen parts from xd in the forums
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