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Old 02-01-2010, 01:15 PM   #37
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i dont wanna jump in on this late but if i read and caught up correctly didnt you say you had the engine dynoed? i can see the 132 to there and not at the wheels with the few mods you do have. without the drive train loss you numbers are gonna be a little higher... but correct me if i misread
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:41 PM   #38
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I think you are correct, he got 132.4 bhp (brake horsepower).

Even with a 15% drivetrain loss (super conservative), that's close to 113 whp. with bolt-ons AND tuning, this is certainly possible.

at a 10% loss, it's 119 whp, that is a more "interesting" result.
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:00 PM   #39
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Old 02-01-2010, 02:08 PM   #40
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I concur that 132 at the crank doesn't seem all that hard-to-achieve. I'm pushing 110-115 at the wheels with strictly bolt-on stuff (intake, pulley, exhaust, wheels)

At the same time, this all sounds very haphazard and unscientific. I'd love to believe it, but you don't back it up with any pics or dyno sheets. When/how did you hook-up your engine to a dyno? Are you sure this isn't an "estimated HP" thing?

Also, aren't you getting any CEL's from your modified intake/throttle body?

Seriously, post a pic of this intake bypass for us to check-out.

Last edited by ozmdd; 02-01-2010 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:56 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozmdd View Post
I concur that 132 at the crank doesn't seem all that hard-to-achieve. I'm pushing 110-115 at the wheels with strictly bolt-on stuff (intake, pulley, exhaust, wheels)

At the same time, this all sounds very haphazard and unscientific. I'd love to believe it, but you don't back it up with any pics or dyno sheets. When/how did you hook-up your engine to a dyno? Are you sure this isn't an "estimated HP" thing?

Also, aren't you getting any CEL's from your modified intake/throttle body?

Seriously, post a pic of this intake bypass for us to check-out.
+2 More info on this "aux intake " set-up , thnx
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:11 PM   #42
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Old 02-01-2010, 08:58 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
no, forged rods are the same exact specifications as stock ones, in terms of shape and function. I have forged rods with stock camshafts and stock crankshaft.

Changing the rods simply does not change the power output of the motor.
i understand, but my idea of replacing the con-rod is with "lighter" con-rod material, if it is lighter, i think it will affect the lower power band. that's why when i change to the lighter rod, i will also change the camshafts. what do you think?
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:02 PM   #44
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it seems that we have a misunderstanding about the dyno method. as i mentioned before, it was on engine. for the next step i will use on the wheel
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:17 AM   #45
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:34 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by sujonol78 View Post
i understand, but my idea of replacing the con-rod is with "lighter" con-rod material, if it is lighter, i think it will affect the lower power band. that's why when i change to the lighter rod, i will also change the camshafts. what do you think?
Reducing conrod weight will have only a very marginal effect on the reciprocating mass. In other words, I severely doubt if you could tell the difference while driving it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:43 PM   #47
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+1
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:18 PM   #48
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Reducing conrod weight will have only a very marginal effect on the reciprocating mass. In other words, I severely doubt if you could tell the difference while driving it.
thanks for the info, i will keep it in mind for the next step.
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:30 AM   #49
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ur drive by cable?
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:03 AM   #50
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ur drive by cable?
if i understood you correctly, the answer would be 'yes',
i'm not using the electronic throttle control
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:34 PM   #51
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How did you connect the dyno to the engine?
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