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Old 12-09-2018, 09:34 AM   #19
06YarisRS
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
Got a 91 Corolla about 2000 and the A/C worked at first but faded to nothing in a year or two. When I did the full system delete, I found at least one of those skinny O-rings mis-seated...it explained the dusty oil film that would appear on the passenger side headlight.
Thanks! I thought very briefly about doing an A/C system delete, but quickly dismissed the idea. I'm much more tolerant of cold than heat. I bet a delete would free up a tiny bit more power though, even when the system isn't engaged. Did you just get rid of yours because of the hassle of repairing/maintaining it?
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:06 AM   #20
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Starting over...

My pressures dropped again, suggesting a leak, but could be due to contraction of the gas as it's extremely cold here.

I have a vacuum on the system. I will be picking up an o-ring kit and a few more cans of R134 midweek. In the meantime, I'll monitor the vacuum as well as test to see that I have 12V at my compressor plug with the A/C switch turned on. Will also jack the car up and check for leaks that may have occured while I had the system (sort of) pressurized with R134.

I'll post a pic later of the vacuum. The pic below is about 20 minutes after a 5 minute vacuum. Holding solid at 30 vacuum.



UPDATE: Lost about 10 psi vacuum in a few hours. Doing another test. I 'm not sure if my system has a leak or this cheap gauge set is leaking. Will check back in a few hours.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 12-09-2018 at 01:19 PM.
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:06 PM   #21
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Leaks...

In terms of A/C, these are probably considered massive leaks. My second vacuum test suggested that the system was leaking. I don't know how it held vacuum the first time I did it.

I plan to do the electrical testing tomorrow.

Big Leaks



Low side o-ring



High side o-ring

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Old 12-09-2018, 08:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Thanks! I thought very briefly about doing an A/C system delete, but quickly dismissed the idea. I'm much more tolerant of cold than heat. I bet a delete would free up a tiny bit more power though, even when the system isn't engaged. Did you just get rid of yours because of the hassle of repairing/maintaining it?
A/C delete during headgasket replacement at 150k on a car that was pretty well on the way to dying of rust. System was more of an add-on than w/ Yaris, which doesn't have the extra fan. Really cleaned up the engine compartment, which is busier than the Yaris' for other reasons too. (The 4AF series was originally an inline engine, and there was extra-bracket madness to make it work FWD, so the delete removed the belt and a bracket.) On A/C deletes I also remove the evaporator from the HVAC box, which makes the fan's output higher.
I do basically like/believe in A/C for cars, and would likely keep the Yaris' there and working.

re: your O-ring photos. Mine were thinner, the joint was different, and one of the rings was a bit rolled out of place.

Last edited by dogsridewith; 12-11-2018 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 12-10-2018, 09:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogsridewith View Post
A/C delete during headgasket replacement at 150k on a car that was pretty well on the way to dying of rust. System was more of an add-on than w/ Yaris, which doesn't have the extra fan. Really cleaned up the engine compartment, which is busier than the Yaris' for other reasons too. (The 4AF series was originally an inline engine, and there was extra-bracket madness to make it work FWD, so the delete removed the belt and a bracket.) On A/C deletes I also remove the evaporator from the HVAC, which makes the fan's output higher.
I do basically like/believe in A/C for cars, and would likely keep the Yaris' there and working.

re: your O-ring photos. Mine were thinner, the joint was different, and one of the rings was a bit rolled out of place.
I get ya. Sometimes it's not worth spending the money and/or effort on repairing non-critical systems on older cars. I've vowed to get mine working. I think I'm going to replace the condenser as they're relatively cheap and mine has some dark spots along the top. It's entirely possible that it's just rustrpoofing that I applied that leaked down from the upper crossmember. But, I've got the front off and replacing the condenser should eliminate one more possible leak point in my diagnosis. Plus, replacing it looks like a pretty quick job.
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Old 12-11-2018, 06:46 PM   #24
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Well, so much for troubleshooting - there's yer problem: refrigerants on the outside! Heh. Joking aside, on the bright side at least you have a good idea what the pressure drop is being caused by. Some new o-rings should help.

If you haven't already, as a quick note, especially if you decide to replace the condenser, if the system has been open a while a new drier desiccant bag is fairly cheap (as I recall) and will capture any moisture in the system after your refill.

-- Adam
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Old 12-11-2018, 08:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by atomic_hoji View Post
Well, so much for troubleshooting - there's yer problem: refrigerants on the outside! Heh. Joking aside, on the bright side at least you have a good idea what the pressure drop is being caused by. Some new o-rings should help.

If you haven't already, as a quick note, especially if you decide to replace the condenser, if the system has been open a while a new drier desiccant bag is fairly cheap (as I recall) and will capture any moisture in the system after your refill.

-- Adam
Haha, I hope that's my problem, Adam. I may be in need of a significant overhaul. I'm not putting a lot of stock in the compressor being good. However, if it is bad, I found a seller on eBay and messaged him about his rebuilds. Very, very thorough reconditioning and testing, so if I need a new one, I can get it for just over $100.00 USD.

The condensor - a TYC from Rock Auto (the Valeos on eBay were a bit too much) - comes with a dessicant bag already installed for $70.00 CAD or I can get a Denso for around $80.00 USD without the dessicant bag. Leaning towards the TYC at this point.

On another note, I was looking at new compressor hoses. I had to bend the tubing on the vacuum side but there's still a slight strain on the rubber hose part. Any more bending and I'm afraid I'll end up closing off the tubing. The problem is that there really isn't a direct replacement that would work for a Yaris/2ZR combination that I know of. I can get the discharge line hose assembly for the xD at Rock Auto but not the suction line assembly. I may put the suction hose assembly back in the vice - maybe with a large gauge wire inserted into it - and see if I can get a bit more bend without closing it off. The strain on it isn't that bad, but as the engine rocks a bit forward on deceleration, it will likely increase the strain.
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Last edited by 06YarisRS; 12-11-2018 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:19 PM   #26
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Replaced the two o-rings on the suction and discharge lines that attach to the compressor. Although I'm replacing the condensor this weekend, I thought I'd try a vacuum test for fun - always gotta be doing something on the car, right? Three hours and holding steady at 30 inches of vacuum. Now, hopefully that compressor will engage during the recharge. Wish me luck... Oh, and I'll replace the o-rings that go on the condensor lines too. BTW, the new green rings are a tad thicker and have a tighter fit, but the lines went in easily, but firmly, with the o-rings lubed with PAG oil.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:56 PM   #27
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New TYC A/C condenser has arrived. Pretty good for $54.00 CAD plus shipping.

My vacuum is still holding nearly 24 hours later, so I probably didn't need to get a new condensor. But, the old one is dinged up - lots of bent fins and a little exterior corrosion - from 12 years of use. So, I'll install the new one.


I plan to install it and recharge the system tomorrow.



Mounted... I installed new o-rings, reattached the lines and it's sitting with vacuum on it now. About to go out and see if it held.

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Old 12-15-2018, 01:27 AM   #28
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Latest...

Checked the wiring diagrams on TechInfo and wiring at least to the compressor connector should be compatible. SOL+ is pin 7 (light green wire), SOL - (W/B wire) across Yaris, Corolla and xD Air Conditioning Amplifier Assembly. Having trouble finding the physical location of the Air Conditioning Amplifier Assembly. After I fixed the leaks, I recharged and still no compressor action. I'll test the compressor clutch assembly tomorrow with a jumper and the car battery. Either way, this compressor is toast. Under 45 psi on the low side, it's leaking fluid seemingly from the gaskets. Last time I waste my money on a junk yard A/C compressor. Should have known better. This is turning out to be a very frustrating job. Off to order a reman compressor...
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:32 AM   #29
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That's tough luck with those compressors. I have purchased many things such as alternators from a local scrapper and have had good luck with them. That said one of the alternators has grease all inside of it and it almost caught fire when I installed it and ran the car. They claim they test all of their parts before they sell them - I call bs.

When it comes to engine swaps where a lot of things can go wrong, I tend to purchase reman'd stuff or brand new if my budget allows. This way it lowers the amount of things that are properly hooked up but internally faulty.

Obviously reman'd units I'm sure van also be faulty, but seemingly less so than scrapped parts.
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Old 12-15-2018, 10:58 AM   #30
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That's tough luck with those compressors. I have purchased many things such as alternators from a local scrapper and have had good luck with them. That said one of the alternators has grease all inside of it and it almost caught fire when I installed it and ran the car. They claim they test all of their parts before they sell them - I call bs.

When it comes to engine swaps where a lot of things can go wrong, I tend to purchase reman'd stuff or brand new if my budget allows. This way it lowers the amount of things that are properly hooked up but internally faulty.

Obviously reman'd units I'm sure van also be faulty, but seemingly less so than scrapped parts.
Good advice Trevor re: reman/new parts. I did order a reman last night and spoke with the outfit in Miami. They claim the use the shell and check every internal part, replace as needed and refurb the clutch. The also claim to test them after reman, but how would you ever know. The caveat is that there is no warranty unless installed (and documented by proof of receipt) by a certified A/C technician. I can understand that, I suppose. One upside of this remanfacturer is that their compressors come with a OEM approved factory fill of oil, PAG46 I expect, so one less step I have to fret over.

Anyway, I verified wiring diagrams on TIS and everything looked copacetic. This was confirmed by the following tests:

1) test commanded voltage with engine running. On C8 connector SOL+, I measure 2.62V with the A/C off and battery voltage (13.8V) with A/C turned on. So, the wiring looks good and the commanded voltage is being delivered.

2) Made a battery jumper and tested the clutch. Zero movement with direct 12V. This compressor sat on the shelf at the scrapyard for a long time and probably didn't even work when it came off the car.

So, as soon as my compressor arrives, I'll bolt that up, vacuum the system and recharge all whilst crossing my fingers. If nothing else, I'm learning a lot.
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Old 12-15-2018, 11:54 AM   #31
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I applied intermittent battery voltage directly to the compressor and I don't even get a click. I powered it with and without the engine running. I'd hoped that if I cycled the clutch with the engine running, it would engage and I could see a boost in high side pressure. Nada, dead, nothing. I either have a bad field coil or the clutch is seized up. Regardless, this thing's spending the rest of it's useful - errr, useless - life as a boat anchor. Good thing I live right next to the ocean. Joking, of course. I'll keep it around for spare parts, or take it apart see what the guts look like.

It was just easier to cut the connector and connect the jumper. I have my soldering gun, heatshrink, split loom and tape ready to spring into action after the reman compressor is installed.

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Old 12-16-2018, 09:28 AM   #32
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Ah, bummer man. Sorry to hear about your luck with the A/C compressor. At least it's good to hear that the wiring is demanding the A/C pick-up and run, so once you get your reman. unit you should be able to pop it in, charge, and be off to the races!

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Old 12-20-2018, 06:35 PM   #33
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Ah, bummer man. Sorry to hear about your luck with the A/C compressor. At least it's good to hear that the wiring is demanding the A/C pick-up and run, so once you get your reman. unit you should be able to pop it in, charge, and be off to the races!

-- Adam
Yeah, I'm super happy about the wiring tests. My 'new' reman compressor arrived. I had a bit of buyer's remorse after paying for it as I read a number of reviews from Amazon customers - after the fact of course (my fault) - that suggested that they just repainted junkyard compressors and shipped them out. As usual, eBay feedback for all positive transactions was so generic you couldn't tell if they were fake or not. The bad reviews of course mentioned specifics. Anyway, I had sent a couple of emails asking about their reman practices and, of course, no response. Once I told them I had contacted American Aftermarket Suppliers Association AASA) - one of their sponsors - whatd'ya know?...I got a response from the seller almost immediately. They claim that all of their used compressors are 'broken down, tested for leaks... and sealed if needed". The clutch is definitely reman as it has the 3 bolts that I've read are used to repair the clutches. For $99.00 shipping included, I'm not expecting factory performance, just no leaks, a functional clutch and some cold air. I can't expect spec pressures and performance for that price when a true reman from Denso or similar is several hundred dollars.

Anyway, fingers are crossed. I'll get at it again tomorrow. First, I'll test the clutch with my jumper cable, then, a long vacuum test. Then, later on Saturday - assuming a good air tight system - I'll draw a good hour long vacuum on it and try another recharge. I got some more documentation on spec pressures and other diagnostic information. Wish me luck....

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Old 12-20-2018, 08:33 PM   #34
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Dude, I paid $110 usd for mine and all I wanted was a functioning compressor. Cross my fingers so far it's been flawless. At idle in mid summer the a/c isnt ice cold but this could he due to me having a slight under drive pulley and my a/c system may be slightly under filled.

I knew the a/c in my car was only temporary for a couple years so I wasnt concerned about a reman'd unit as long as it worked. I say install yours and test it out, chances are it runs fine and will last you st least a few years. Just dont let the compressor never turn off for 6 months so that it stays lobed.

Like you said, for the price you cant really beat it. Plus you have all the tools now so if it craps out in a few years just buy a new one and slap it back on. Most people never fix their a/c system when the compressor goes because it's well over a grand for the dealership to fix.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:30 PM   #35
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For sure, man. I'll be hyped if it doesn't leak, provides a bit of cool air and isn't noisy. There's no really knowing what they did do to it, but it actually looks great from the outside and I think they had the manifold cover off - probably to replace the seal/gasket - as the bolts holding it on are hex heads vs the OEM standard bolt. At $99.00 shipped, it's as good a possibility of a functioning unit as you're gonna get as they're in that area used, dirty and corroded from a local scrap yard. And, apparently this one comes with a factory load of new PAG oil, so that's one less worry. Problem is the chance you take can be a costly one. I'm already into $60.00 in R134, not to mention a seal kit. But, like you say, a dealer or A/C shop would be a heck of a lot more.

And your right - I do have all the gear needed now. I think if it fails, I might have a go at rebuilding my other one, mainly for the learning experience. Re: running the A/C system regularly - I do this every few weeks year round. It's definitely best practice, lol, from what I've been reading.
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:39 AM   #36
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Another fail! I'm ready to pack it in and take it to an A/C shop. I installed the new compressor, new o-rings, the connector shows battery voltage with the A/C switch on (and lit), vacuum test held 30 inches over night and I'm having the exact same issues. It's like the compressor won't run. When I first started adding the R134, the compressor made a few clicking sounds and I got excited hoping to see the low side drop a bit and the high side rise. Nothing... As you can see in the gauge pic, the low side is about 22 psi and the high side is about 65. The Yaris calls for around 13 oz and the Corolla about 15. I added about 14 oz and never as I was adding it (to the low side, with the AC turned on) did the high side rise past 75 or 80.

I've got hours and hours into this and it's downright depressing.

Current pressures:



Reman Compressor Installed

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