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Old 05-17-2009, 12:03 AM   #1
LtNoogie
 
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1zz injectors suit the S/C just fine

Today I installed a set of 1.8L 1zz injectors that I bought off of eBay because the tC injectors that I have been using are causing CELs for a rich condition every time I start the car.

The next picture is of the blue 1zz injectors (PN 23250-0D050) going into the fuel rail to replace the grey tC injectors. The stock injectors are PN 23250-21040. There's got to be a way find the specs on these two injectors.



Previously, when I was on the freeway and at WOT, my wideband gauge bottomed out at an AFR reading of 10 because it could not go lower. With the 1zz injectors, the AFR at WOT now reads 11.3 on the wideband.

The following picture is of the data I logged. At WOT, ignition timing remained nicely in the double digits (here showing 16 degrees). AFR on the data logger bottoms out at 12.03. When I was running lean, I was getting an AFR reading of 14.9 on the wideband and ignition timing was down in the single digits around 8. Perhaps a little water/meth injection to cool the mixture and I'll get ignition timing up in the 20's again, which is what is is when boost is turned off.

Isn't tuning fun?




BTW, If you're going to do this, you can save yourself some future headaches by sawing off that nub that blocks the fuel rail from coming off. Taking off the valve cover to change the fuel injectors is not difficult but a PITA. With the nub off, it took a half hour from start to finish.




Here are the injectors I bought.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf injectors.pdf (186.2 KB, 163 views)
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Last edited by LtNoogie; 05-17-2009 at 01:31 AM.
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:23 AM   #2
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This is so great. Thanks, Long
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:24 AM   #3
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wow man, you are really coming along... nicely done!!
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:29 AM   #4
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yay, way to go Noog!
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Old 05-17-2009, 02:56 AM   #5
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Your timing looks good. Do you think 20 deg with boost is going to make it better?
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:17 AM   #6
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Do i sense a dyno run coming up , now that you are looking real good .
Oh and nice to see an engine bay shot finally, even if it is only the boring half.
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Old 05-17-2009, 03:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
Glad to see this worked for you. What was your a/f ratio in closed loop while boosting?
Ok, you forced me to make a data collection run.

Closed loop boosting under light to medium load on surface streets still shows an AFR of 14.7. That's the whole point of closed loop... the ECU is trying to maintain a preset AFR.

What is interesting is that when I get on the freeway and nudge the throttle just barely enough to go to 1-2lb boost, the car goes into open loop and the wideband AFR reads 10.5 or so. You can see from the graph below that I'm not accelerating hard anymore and my throttle position is around 34%. The AFR from the data logger drops to its minimum which matches what the widebande gauge states. I don't know why the car goes into open loop with such a low throttle setting.

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Old 05-17-2009, 03:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris-me View Post
Your timing looks good. Do you think 20 deg with boost is going to make it better?
Any advance in timing should produce more power. Since I can't control timing directly, I'll let the ECU control timing. I'll try to contol fuel and mixture temperature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1NZYaris1 View Post
Do i sense a dyno run coming up , now that you are looking real good .
Oh and nice to see an engine bay shot finally, even if it is only the boring half.
The dyno run is definitely planned but not until the water/methanol injection system is installed. I'm just doing alot of research to determine whether I want to buy a kit off the shelf or put one together myself. The kits run around $400 so they're not small change.

I'm hoping that the cooler air/fuel charge will allow the ECU to advance timing some more... hopefully into the 20's. Then it's time to see dyno guy.
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Old 05-17-2009, 04:00 AM   #9
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I was not rich in closed loop even with the tC injectors. Only during startup and boost above 5lb. I did not even have to be at WOT on the street before it went open loop.

If you look to the left of the dashed lines on the graph, most of that was on the street before I got on the freeway. I had the S/C switch set to low so I was boosting most all of that time. Light boost. The AFR during that stage is normal.

I don't quite understand what forces the car into open loop after warmup.
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Old 05-17-2009, 09:36 AM   #10
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hey where did you get ur rubber seal on the hood..looking for one.
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Old 05-17-2009, 12:26 PM   #11
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I have those rubber seals for sale. Just haven't put them on the site yet.
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Old 06-07-2009, 05:22 PM   #12
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put in my 1zz injectors yesterday. no CEL, runs great. my AFR at WOT during open loop before the 1zz injectors was about 12.4-5 now it's 11.4-5. *I was getting the 12.4-5 without the 1zz injectors because I switched back to my Stock airbox instead of my aFe intake that i had. When I was running with the stock injectors and afe intake, i had a 13.4-5 AFR @ WOT during open loop.

But now I am running the 1zz injectors and switched back to my aFe intake, and now am running the 11.4-5 AFR @ WOT openloop.
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:33 PM   #13
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^ Perfect.
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtNoogie View Post
BTW, If you're going to do this, you can save yourself some future headaches by sawing off that nub that blocks the fuel rail from coming off. Taking off the valve cover to change the fuel injectors is not difficult but a PITA. With the nub off, it took a half hour from start to finish.
While installing mine, I noticed that little nub and saw that it served NO purpose whatsoever!

*edit - I recommend the AEM kit, its got an adjustable setting for when to turn on and where to ramp up to based on boost pressure, dont tap your washer fluid, its only 2.2L (slightly more than 1/2 gallon) just suck it up and put the 1 gallon tank that comes with the kit somewhere in the car. Really though between 87 octane and 93, there is almost no difference when the water/meth is working properly - and methanol in bulk is fairly cheap :)
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETERPOOP View Post
put in my 1zz injectors yesterday. no CEL, runs great. my AFR at WOT during open loop before the 1zz injectors was about 12.4-5 now it's 11.4-5. *I was getting the 12.4-5 without the 1zz injectors because I switched back to my Stock airbox instead of my aFe intake that i had. When I was running with the stock injectors and afe intake, i had a 13.4-5 AFR @ WOT during open loop.

But now I am running the 1zz injectors and switched back to my aFe intake, and now am running the 11.4-5 AFR @ WOT openloop.
I think the 1zz injectors are perfect for the SC. I'm glad your readings are on the mark.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan View Post
While installing mine, I noticed that little nub and saw that it served NO purpose whatsoever!

*edit - I recommend the AEM kit, its got an adjustable setting for when to turn on and where to ramp up to based on boost pressure, dont tap your washer fluid, its only 2.2L (slightly more than 1/2 gallon) just suck it up and put the 1 gallon tank that comes with the kit somewhere in the car. Really though between 87 octane and 93, there is almost no difference when the water/meth is working properly - and methanol in bulk is fairly cheap :)
The AEM kit is on my short list of upgrades once I get through this crush of work at the office.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:34 AM   #16
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sorry just one question,anyone will it bolt on to the first generation ECHO?1NZFE engine?cheers
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Old 11-08-2009, 10:22 AM   #17
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sorry just one question,anyone will it bolt on to the first generation ECHO?1NZFE engine?cheers
Is your question about the AEM kit? If so, I would not know. The box hax been sitting in my garage for the past few months waiting for my lazy ass to install it.

I don't see why it would not fit. From what I've read by other posters, the biggest problem is finding room to install the water bottle.
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtNoogie View Post
Is your question about the AEM kit? If so, I would not know. The box hax been sitting in my garage for the past few months waiting for my lazy ass to install it.

I don't see why it would not fit. From what I've read by other posters, the biggest problem is finding room to install the water bottle.
If you like I'll help your lazy ass, I'm off Fridays and Saturdays. Let me know.
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