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05-26-2015, 05:12 PM
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#1 |
 
Drives: Yaris '05 1.3 Hatch "R.I.P." Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: South Africa
Posts: 127
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OEM Electric Window install problem
Hey guys, I have managed to completely install all 4 OEM electric windows but my car didn't have the connectors in front. So I made my own harness to connect my driver doors wiring to the passengers door wiring.
I'm left with one problem though.. I can open and close all my windows from my Drivers switch panel but none of the passenger switches do anything? I tested them and they definitely aren't faulty. The only wire I am suspecting of being wrong is the blue wire in the middle of the window switch connectors.. When I was working it out I was pretty sure that it was supposed to go to Ground(-)... connec.jpg Please save my day 
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05-26-2015, 07:19 PM
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#2 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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What year was your Yaris built?
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05-27-2015, 02:15 AM
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#3 |
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Drives: Yaris '05 1.3 Hatch "R.I.P." Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: South Africa
Posts: 127
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It was built in Dec 2005, so probably 2006 **
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05-27-2015, 05:10 AM
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#4 | |
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ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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Quote:
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05-27-2015, 11:29 AM
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#5 |
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Drives: Yaris '05 1.3 Hatch "R.I.P." Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: South Africa
Posts: 127
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Hey, I just remembered! The wiring came from a newer Yaris than mine, I think 2007, but that shouldn't be a problem?
Model No: NCP90R-AHMRKQ-92R VIN (just in case) : JTDKW923X05000819 Thanks for checking it out :D |
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06-03-2015, 12:43 PM
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#6 |
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Drives: Yaris '05 1.3 Hatch "R.I.P." Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: South Africa
Posts: 127
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Okay, so after fiddling a bit with a tester I discovered that the common "blue" wire which is in the middle of all the passenger door switches must go to the permanent 12v terminal in the fuse box. That is where my driver side switch also gets its power from after being activated by a relay. Quick and simple fix.
I thought the driver side switch sends 12v to the passenger switches, that's why when I had the "blue" wire left which I was unsure of I presumed it was for "grounding". Stoked to have my OEM Electric window motors, door panels and switches all wired up and 100% working. All for $250 if I thumb-suck the currency conversion! :P I'm glad I saw your picture showing where the Permanent 12v supply is in the Fuse Box CTScott. Made life that much easier :D |
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