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Old 11-17-2010, 11:09 PM   #1
bieniman
 
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Unhappy Engine noise and Oil Lamp on

I just got my Vitz RS 2001 1500 AT repainted. So the car was idle for about a month. After it was finished painted, took it home. I noticed the oil lamp warning light coming on when the engine heats up. I checked the oil level and everything is ok. So took for a drive hoping the lamp will go off. It didn't and even worse I hear a noise coming from my engine now when I rev the car.
I immediately shut off the engine, affraid of getting the engine worse, PANIC!!!. The day after I started the engine again and there was no oil lamp on, I left it for a while and again, as the engine warmed up the oil lamp went on and a while after that the noise comes back when the engine is revved.
PLease help.....

I have been thinking of this idea:
Because the car was idle, the carbon and dirt had time to sink and clogged up something (I heard there is a filter in the oil pan, which can get clogged). This causes the low pressure, hence the oil lamp, which in turn causes the noise because something is not getting lubed.

I am not a machanic so I cannot check this myself, still waiting on the (busy)mechanic to diagnose the problem, still I hope something is not severely damaged inside the motor.....

Can somebody suggest anything besides a complete overhaul and giving me instructions on how to do it myself??...Please please please (desperate)
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:12 PM   #2
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No oil pressure?
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:07 AM   #3
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No oil pressure?
Yeah, I know my 2000 Celica had an oil pick-up screen in the bottom of the pan, fed into the pump, then through the engine. If that screen is clogged and you're not getting oil pressure, that could be your problem. Or the outlets are clogged. But you're making a HUGE mistake by driving it with an oil light on. With the noises you're hearing, I'm sure you've already done permanent damage to the engine. Hopefully someone can steer you in the right direction on this. If I remember right, the oil pan comes off pretty easy to check out the pick-up screen.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:15 AM   #4
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Here's a picture with the oil pan removed (from peterpoop's turbo build thread on MI) of the oil pick-up.

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Old 11-18-2010, 12:45 AM   #5
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if it's a tapping noise and from the upper engine, it's probably a lifter

if it's a knock sound and from lower engine, you may as well start looking into a turbo, high performance engine rebuild parts, and cams. cuz if it's lower engine you got rod knock and that's lethal on an engine. causes grooves on the crank and it's not worth repairing...may as well replace. but on second hands, gives you a real chance to dig in there and get parts.

the car sittin had nothing to do with your problems. unless it's just that sludged up.
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:50 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by severous01 View Post
if it's a tapping noise and from the upper engine, it's probably a lifter

if it's a knock sound and from lower engine, you may as well start looking into a turbo, high performance engine rebuild parts, and cams. cuz if it's lower engine you got rod knock and that's lethal on an engine. causes grooves on the crank and it's not worth repairing...may as well replace. but on second hands, gives you a real chance to dig in there and get parts.

the car sittin had nothing to do with your problems. unless it's just that sludged up.
Thanks, for the advise. But if it is the lifter, is it then serious , and how should I relieve this noise?
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:42 AM   #7
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How many miles since the last oil and filter change? Does the engine oil smell heavily of gasoline? Is there visible sludge inside the valve cover? Do you know the maintenance history of the car?

If the oil light comes on after the oil is hot most likely

-the oil filter is clogged and restricting

-the oil is severely fuel diluted

-the engine is just plain worn out.

The first thing I'd do is change the oil and oil filter and pray. Then take it from there. As others above have stated if it's making noise now that is a very bad sign.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:21 PM   #8
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The guys at the paint shop were screwing around with your car.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:12 PM   #9
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oil pressure 'pumps' the lifter. all it needs is 30+psi to 'lift' and rest against the cam/rocker. so, you get oil pressure (when the oil light comes on you have too much oil pressure or too little...nothing to do with temp, level, thickness, or any other factor than pressure) and you eliminate your 'lifter noise'...if it's lifter noise.

where is the sound coming from? high or low? is it a tap or a knock? and first and fore-most, did the noise happen when you picked up the car the day you got it??? and can you prove it??? because if you can't, you're barkin at a tree when the burglar is in the house...they get these claims all the time and the first thing the lawyer is gonna ask is if you have proof that it didnt happen when you dropped it off, and it happened the second you picked it up...and if you have proof of this.

sorry to say it happens....and i know that reliable shops are picked to death of ppl who claim that the shop did this and did that....and then shops that screw with ppl's vehicles get off the hook because of technicalities.

but, like i said...noise high or low? knock or tap. if you wanna know the difference get a ring on your finger and tap it on a metal plate...that's a tap...and then get a rubber hammer and hit the same plate...that's a knock. if you can get a sample video or audio file...
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:00 AM   #10
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OMG, there's NO lifters on this engine the cam sits directly on the buckets over the valves.

Chances are the car was repeatedly started and shut off at the shop causing your oil to get washed down with gasoline. Pull the dipstick and give it a smell, and/or smell in the filler hole on top of the motor. It probably smells like gas. Also when you pull the dip stick, look if the oil is OVER full. Only thing you can do is, as stated above, change the oil and filter and prey.
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:05 PM   #11
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Thanks guys,
again the lamp only comes on after a while when the car gets heated. A short time after that the noise is audible only when I rev the engine. the sound is sort of like a sewing machine sound. I smelled the oil and can detect a faint gasoline odor. I'll change the oil and filter and clean the pan and prey....
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Old 11-21-2010, 11:37 PM   #12
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Bieniman,

Let us know what you find out.

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Old 11-26-2010, 06:33 AM   #13
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How about if the OCV (oil control valve ) doesn't work. Any effects?
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:31 AM   #14
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Yes, if there was a blockage preventing the valve from closing to prevent the bypass of oil pressure. But this would only happen if you haven't changed the oil and there's a large sludge build up in it.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:39 AM   #15
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Beiniman,

Did you try changing the oil and filter yet?

There was another poster here a while back whose oil sender had gone bad and was leaking who had very similar symptoms to yours. I'd look into that too when you change the oil and filter.

R2
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:43 AM   #16
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Another thing I just thought of. Check to make sure your oil pan isn't dinted in, and could cause oil starvation.
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:42 PM   #17
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I finally got a mechanic who will did a diagnoses for me, when he came the first time he did a precheck at the diagnostic adapter, he found out that the check engine lamp did not work at all(thats the way he does it, and with a paper clip, by looking at the number of times the check engine light blinks, he knows what the error codes are!!!Amazing!!!). Does anyone know how to replace the check engine lamp?



Also, when in idle, is the engine supposed to react when you pull out the connector from the OCV? Because it did not react, so we shut off the engine and inspected the OCV, it did not react when we switch the ignition to on and off, he checked it at work and its ok. He says it might be a faulty wire. We'll check that this weekend.

thanks R2D2, well I started the engine very briefly when the OCV was not installed yet, it squirted oil every where trough the hole, shut the engine off immediately. Now we know that the pump is creating pressure, so it is not the filter or pan blockage (maybe?).

Bluevitz-rs, I'll check the pan tomorrow.

Does anyone know where to find the wiring diagrams for the 1NZ-FE??I need it this weekend!!!!

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted
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Old 12-09-2010, 07:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bieniman View Post
I finally got a mechanic who will did a diagnoses for me, when he came the first time he did a precheck at the diagnostic adapter, he found out that the check engine lamp did not work at all(thats the way he does it, and with a paper clip, by looking at the number of times the check engine light blinks, he knows what the error codes are!!!Amazing!!!). Does anyone know how to replace the check engine lamp?



Also, when in idle, is the engine supposed to react when you pull out the connector from the OCV? Because it did not react, so we shut off the engine and inspected the OCV, it did not react when we switch the ignition to on and off, he checked it at work and its ok. He says it might be a faulty wire. We'll check that this weekend.

thanks R2D2, well I started the engine very briefly when the OCV was not installed yet, it squirted oil every where trough the hole, shut the engine off immediately. Now we know that the pump is creating pressure, so it is not the filter or pan blockage (maybe?).

Bluevitz-rs, I'll check the pan tomorrow.

Does anyone know where to find the wiring diagrams for the 1NZ-FE??I need it this weekend!!!!

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted


First off, the Yaris (even your 1st gen one) doesn't support the DTC display by jumpering a pin on the DLC3 connector (like some other vehicles do), so your mechanic must use an ODBII code reader to read the DTCs.

I have the EWDs for your 2001. Shoot me a PM with your email address and I'll get them to you.
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