Synthetic Oil

[ketel0ne]

Looks to be a toyota filter.

I am thinking 7500 but may see if I can go to 15k mile service. Also had tires rotated and filled to 44psi again.

The dealer sticker only says 5k miles which is crap.

[nsmitchell]

Sounds pretty nice. I onaly have 1700 miles so far. I got only 31MPG on my last fillup. What kind of filter are you using? I want to try Amsoil PI - Performance Improver. My brother swears by it in his XB. He gets about 10% better MPGs when using it. It might put you over the 50MPG mark. It is about $8.00 per 16 oz bottle, but you only use 1 oz per 10 gallons of gas. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx

[07WYarisRS]

Originally Posted by nsmitchell

Sounds pretty nice. I onaly have 1700 miles so far. I got only 31MPG on my last fillup. What kind of filter are you using? I want to try Amsoil PI - Performance Improver. My brother swears by it in his XB. He gets about 10% better MPGs when using it. It might put you over the 50MPG mark. It is about $8.00 per 16 oz bottle, but you only use 1 oz per 10 gallons of gas. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx

I've used it (Amsoil PI) is a great fuel injector cleaner, no complaints here.
I switch to Amsoil 2000 0w-30 and my hwy mileage is 43-45mpg depending on speed.
Be fore the switch it was 39
Once I switch the ATF over I expect and extra 3~4mpg

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS

You are correct
Mobil1 Synthetic is a group III mineral based oil just like Castrol Syntec and Motul.

I think you're giving some bad poop on Mobil 1. Unless they've changed within the last few months, Mobil 1 is still a PAO based group IV.

If they have changed, I'd like to see the proof.

[ketel0ne]

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by ketel0ne

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

GF-4 is a specification. I'm wondering if it's a group IV based synthetic (true synthetic and not mineral oil based).

[nsmitchell]

Mobil-1, when it was a real PAO, took Castrol Syntec to court for claiming that Syntec was a "synthetic" oil. Castrol Syntec won the case, so Mobil-1 said, if you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Syntec, and now Mobil-1, use a cheaper method for producing their "synthetic" oils. Amsoil and a few others are the only ones making PAO synthetics. Mobil-1 and Syntec are still far better than dino oil though. Amsoil is popular for use in 18 wheelers because when used with a bypass oil filter, the oil can be used for 100,000+ miles without an oil change, whick saves truckers lots of $$$. If you are going to change it every 3000-7500 miles, you can just use Mobil-1 with a nice Napa filter, or blow the wad, and use the Mobil-1 filter which is an excellent filter. Do this, and your engine will last a long, long time, with great MPG.

[07WYarisRS]

Originally Posted by ketel0ne

Mobil 1 is GF-4

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_5W-30.asp

GF-4 is a specifcation and does not mean it's a POA based Synthetic,
Yes Mobil 1 still contains POA based synthetics in it formula but the higher percentage of base is synthetic petrolium oil (hydrocracked or highly refined mineral oil/crude stock)
the newest line of synthetic from Mobil 1 contain more Synthetic stock (POA) and Mobil guaranties performance and protection for up to 15,000 miles.

Read the MSDS sheets.

It's main base os hydrocracked mineral oil with synthetic additives just like syntec, Qstate, havoline synthetic and 99% of the rest of the synthetic out there.

http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-Eng...SDS%20sheet%22

Don't listen to everything in Mobil's billion dollar advertizing.
I still agree it's a great oil and should be used instead of a group I or group II because it has much better cleaning and lubrication abilities then a strait conventional oil.
but there are better lubricants out there and like Amsoil and Redline they contain no mineral oil or mineral byproducts. They are the TRUE 100% synthetic. But they also cost more in most cases.
Then again with Mobil 1 over $7 a bottle it's not such a difference anymore

[ketel0ne]

For an enjoyable call, 1-800-ASK-MOBIL.

Is Mobil 1 a group 3 or group 4?

Answer: Blah Blah Blah, propreitary, blah synthetic, blah, high levels blah, blah blah blah. We are not going to tell you.

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by ketel0ne

For an enjoyable call, 1-800-ASK-MOBIL.

Is Mobil 1 a group 3 or group 4?

Answer: Blah Blah Blah, propreitary, blah synthetic, blah, high levels blah, blah blah blah. We are not going to tell you.

Yeah, that's pretty much the same thing I got from their email response to my question... here's the text:

Thank you for your inquiry,

Mobil1 is still 100% synthetic just like it has always been!! Mobil1
motor oils are only formulated utilizing high performance synthetic
baseoils along with the most shear stable additives on the market and it
is tailored specifically for each viscosity that we engineer.

You can have 100% synthetic baseoils with a mediocre additive
package vs. an motor oil that utilizes a good group3 baseoil with a
chemically balanced and shear stable additive package. The number 2
motor oil will definitely out perform oil number 1.

Long story short, as a consumer you should not worry too much about
what basestock the product may utilize, but howwell the motor oil
actually performs and protects your engine in the real world during use.

This is where Mobil1 motor oils excels when compared to the
competition!!

--
Thank you for choosing ExxonMobil products.
If you need further assistance, please contact ExxonMobil at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL


Translation: "Yepper buddy, Mobil 1 uses group 3 stock... but LOOK at our additives!... dems some damn good additives ain't they?"

Looks like 07Yaris is right!

[nsmitchell]

This was taken from this website: http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/
CASTROL AND MOBIL GO TO COURT TO BATTLE IT OUT:

Recently, Mobil accused Castrol of reformulating its synthetic by substituting other basestocks in place of its synthetic polyaphaolefins (PAO's). Castrol Syntec is a hydrocracked oil. That's right, Castrol has replaced the PAO synthetic base stock with hydroisomerized petroleum base stock. Hydrocracking, as it's called, is the highest level of petroleum refining. Castrol isn't even a Group 4 synthetic yet Castrol ended up winning the battle when the National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled that Castrol could still market its oil as "synthetic" despite their new formulation. Basically, they expanded the definition of synthetics to include Group 3 hydroprocessed petroleum oil. This high profile case took place because synthetics are recognized as the market's best hope for growth. Synthetic oil sales have outpaced petroleum oil sales by a wide margin and the gap continues to widen every year. Consumers are getting smarter and demand the best for their vehicles. Read the full story on the Castrol issue in our informative articles section. Additionally, just as soon as Castrol won this battle, several other major oil companies jumped in and came up with hydroprocessed motor oils of their own and labeled these products to be "100% synthetic", when they still are Group 3 hydro processed petroleum oils.

Incidentally, the Castrol Syntec 5W-50 allows for a 2.284 mm wear scar (ASTM D4172 4-Ball Wear Test), compared to the AMSOIL Series 2000 20W-50 Racing Oil which allows for a 0.454 mm wear scar. That's 5 times greater wear with Castrol!

This site goes on to show that Amsoil is better than all the non-PAO oils. I might stick with Amsoil after all... I have a dealer close to me thank God! He keeps a complete Amsoil shop in his garage! Very nice!

[07WYarisRS]

And it's that great protection that allows the engine to run much cooler and increases you MPG as well.

I do not sell amsoil, but I do use it in my shop. I pay for it from Royal distributing, crappy tires and private amsoil dealers just like everyone else. So I gain nothing by preachin' about it. I do so only because I like to help people and want people to get the most out of their machines, be it a car. bike, outboard you name it. A happy customer is a return customer.

I'm a motorcycle/ATV mechanic, worked for Yamaha, Arctic cat, Stihl etc.
I've built and rebuilt engines from Cars to sleds, outbards to 500cc Hotsaws and everything in between and I've never found an oil that works as well as Amsoil. I've used , tested 9including lab testing) and seen the real results first hand of just about every oil out there and I'm most impressed with this one.
I have a huge cabinet of used parts, cams, valave buckets, valves and pistons etc and i use these to show people and compare them to new parts. Then they can clearly see the difference between a regular oil, mineral based oil and a true group IV-V lubricant.
.

Redline is also an awesome oil but lack the versitility and selections available.

Royal Purple is another fine oil but they have proven to have quality control issues

Here is just a small example
This is a Honda XR piston (RIGHT) I replaced last year from a 1995 XR motorcycle. The piston on the left is a new wiseco high comp piston.
This engine had 10 years of hard riding and ran Amsoil 20W-50 from new
This piston has less then 2% carbon, no build up in the lands or oil ports, ZERO wear, no burnt oil, no scuffing sings on visable wear ANYWHERE. This piston was replaced ONLY because a higher compression unit was being installed along with a race cam.





In this pick the same piston is on the right to show any carbon build up on the top. The piston on the left is a two stroke piston from Kawasaki KX




In this pic the bottom piston had been cleaned to look for any indexing or sizeing markings but you can see it had a much heavier carbon build up. This bike Yamaha Seca ran for only 20,000km on Castrol GTX. This engine was rebuild due to a camshaft/ camshaft bearing failure. The other two pistons in the pics are Yamaha snowmobile pistons. One ran CAstrol 927 (middle one) and the one at the top ran Klotz.



The under side of the seca piston.



Not to bad you say ! well think about this. That black build up you see is also built up in the ring lands, and in the oil ports. This does a couple things. The deposits in the ring lands and behind the rings forces the rings out or causes then to become sticky and this greatly increases the amount of cylinder and ring wear. The biuld up in the oil ports block oil flow by up to 50%. Less oil to the cyclinder increase wear and engine temps.



Not to mention these black deposits you see on the underside of the pistons is whats floating around in your oil and turns you oil black quickly. With any mineral based product you will have these deposits.

Using a true synthetic it will vertually eliminate these deposits and build up and switching to synthetic will help to clean away these depostis to help prolong the engine life.

[nsmitchell]

I think dino oil should be outlawed. I looked at my friend's girlfriend's Saturn once. She had been using Jiffy Lube religiously every 3000 miles. I stuck my finger in the oil fill hole and scraped the underside of the valve cover. I got a finger full of some crusty, black, waxy buildup. It was disgusting. Now multiply that by all the uninformed people driving cars, relying on Jiffy Lube and others like it. "Ignorance is Bliss" i suppose.

[Violin]

Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS

Then again with Mobil 1 over $7 a bottle it's not such a difference anymore

Yikes!

I buy a 5-quart bottle for $20. I got several for $17 on sale.

[static808]

greetings everyone!

quick question about amsoil: which type are most people using?? i'm torn between the ASL 5w-30 and the series 2000 0w-30. i'm not sure if im the kind of person that can change their oil just once a year (for peace of mind purposes), so i'm leaning more torwards the ASL 5w-30 with amsoil ea filter and changing my oil twice a year. will i see much of a difference if i plunk down the cash and get the series 2000, or will this setup provide superior engine protection already?? once again, thank you for any assistance you can AND have already provided.

--B

[pxpaulx]

Originally Posted by Violin

Yikes!

I buy a 5-quart bottle for $20. I got several for $17 on sale.

yeah, 5 quarts at wally world for $20 is the best price around here.

[Yaris Dick]

Originally Posted by static808

greetings everyone!

quick question about amsoil: which type are most people using?? i'm torn between the ASL 5w-30 and the series 2000 0w-30. i'm not sure if im the kind of person that can change their oil just once a year (for peace of mind purposes), so i'm leaning more torwards the ASL 5w-30 with amsoil ea filter and changing my oil twice a year. will i see much of a difference if i plunk down the cash and get the series 2000, or will this setup provide superior engine protection already?? once again, thank you for any assistance you can AND have already provided.

--B

The ASL 5W has a 4 ball wear scar rating that is better than the 2000 0W... and it's A LOT cheaper. I use the ASL.

[static808]

thank you YD. i'll be looking for a dealer around my area very soon. just placed an order for our yaris liftback, and just purchased a sienna, so we have a few months to do some research. thanks again everyone for the invaluable information. hopefully our new cars will be running smoothly for many years to come...

--B