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Old 08-11-2014, 03:47 PM   #19
dj92
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It will be some work to build two fixtures, but you've convinced me to do so :)
I'll begin as soon as I'm home again (this weekend or the beginning of the next week)
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Old 08-11-2014, 04:57 PM   #20
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The thought entered my mind, too. Then I found this:

http://www.turnfast.com/tech_practice/practice_video

It brings up a good point about as solid a frame connection as possible.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:14 PM   #21
dj92
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I have not forgotten my plan, sadly I'm still looking for the best way to mount my cameras without spending money ;)
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger View Post
I'm not talking a 200 RPM increase, we're talking 500-1,000 RPM change. 200 is what I would call normal with my other young cars with similar technology. Most of my gear changes are at low revs, there is hardly any over -revving when changing gear at 4K or above. Richie76 may have nailed it with the emmisions thing, Another of my (2 year old) cars will flood if driven < 20 feet (like taking out of garage). It was explained to me that modern cars have a much more 'sealed' fuel system recycling unburnt vapours back into injectors/carbs rather than the old enging/exhaust/athmosphere system
500-1000 rpm is really excessive! My '10 does it, but certainly not to that extent. Have the dealer or your mechanic test drive it with you in the car as well. Just a stupid question (sorry): you're not a beginner clutch driver, are you? Just saying that sometimes beginners stay on the throttle too long, or simply do not have the coordination for the clutch/throttle down pat, and it may appear that your engine is over-revving because of it.
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Old 08-22-2014, 05:02 PM   #23
dj92
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Is it true that so many north americans have problems handling a manual gearbox?
I have no records yet, but today I have observed how I am shifting upwards gently (as I use to do it subconsciously all the time):
You have to release the throttle and press the accelerator down both not too fast at the same time.
It takes just a little time of practice to find out the minimum time and the maximum pedal speed (don't think you can slam a pedal without letting yout car jump) to do this.
For me, it's about 1,5-2 seconds.

Downshifting is almost the same, the clutch release speed is almost always a tradeoff between comfort and lifetime.
I don't really bother about it as I release it rather fast (but still without bigger jumps) and know how to replace it on my own (stealership's pricing is totally nuts, especially for spare parts).
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:29 PM   #24
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Love how ppl always complain about dealership ...funny is that lots of cars come back to us to have it done right , really now who do u want to work on ur Toyota a guy that knows them inside out and specializes mainly on that brand of car or someone that thinks he knows it all ...also don't cheap out on parts u get what u pay for .


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Old 08-22-2014, 07:42 PM   #25
dj92
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It's not about the work fees (which are, however, quite high)
>1000$ for a plain steering gear, 35 for a tiny plastic rail holding the rear bumper, 300 for a tiny seat cushion (just some foam and fabric) and almost the same for one strut is nothing but ripoff, keeping in mind that the latter one from a good brand (Bilstein e.g.) for other cars can be had for not even half of that.

My experience was, is and (I think so) will be that I have to do on my own what has to be done properly.
I have a rental garage at hand where I have access to enough tools for even working on the clutch.
It would not be the first drivetrain and by far not the first car for me to work on ;)
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:51 PM   #26
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And that is the best way ...do it on ur own :)

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Old 08-22-2014, 08:19 PM   #27
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Yeah i always try to do my own.
It is 109.95$/hr at my local Toyota dealer vs 54$ at a trusted friend's garage.
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