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Old 12-22-2012, 12:25 PM   #37
HighMilesForLife
 
Drives: 2008 Black Yaris sedan
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Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me....
So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:49 PM   #38
CTScott
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They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it.

The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050
It is about $12.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:52 PM   #39
HighMilesForLife
 
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Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:27 PM   #40
MuseManAzzu
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Hi guys, I've been experiencing the same issues as the OP with my 2007 Yaris Zinc.

I have tried taking a look at the connector that CTScott suggested however it seems clean and in good form (see photos).

With my problem I have no P/S, No Indicators (Signals), no speedometer, no reversing light, no wipers (front and rear) or washer, no AC, seatbelt warning sound goes off randomly and electric windows dont work.

Things that do work: Headlights, brakelights, hazard lights, radio/cd player, electric door mirrors, interior lights.

Sometimes the car will start up fine, P/S and such all working (malfunction light still on the dashboard though) but if you either put the car in reverse or use the wipers there is a clicking noise followed by all the other electrical components failing such as P/S etc.

I have checked every single fuse including the main fuse on the battery terminal, all are ok. My local garage have suggested the Alternator / Voltage Regulator. I check the output of the battery, it was 12V off and 14V when running which suggests the alternator is charging the battery (even though the battery light is displayed on the dashboard).

I have the car booked in for diagnosis on Tuesday but was hoping to find something that I may be able to repair myself before then to save on the no doubt humongous bill.

Any help would be much appreciated!













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Old 05-11-2013, 02:18 PM   #41
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If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into?



Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him.
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Old 04-19-2016, 11:44 PM   #42
bruceisthecat
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YESSSS

Quote:
Originally Posted by brg88tx View Post
lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

I just did that and now is happening to me, can't you help?
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