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Old 06-24-2010, 02:26 PM   #19
toystory
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
OK - I just finished doing some testing on Crashy and could not recreate the issue. I disconnected the alternator output (the large gauge wire going to the battery) and separately the alternator "signal" output (the 4 pin connector that gives the ECM, AC ECU, etc. info about the alternator state). In both cases Crashy started and ran fine, and everything worked (power steering, etc.)

So, based on that and my experience with us having a plant in Humacao, PR for a few years (and seeing things corrode like crazy even indoors), I would look at connector A27, which is the large black connector with a black and a white wire. It connects to the fusible link (the large plastic chunk attached to the positive battery terminal). The white wire supplies power to all of the body ECUs (AC, Power Steering, SRS, etc.)

Attachment 34677



I would also check the other end of that white wire, which is a ring terminal (connector 1D), which is located on the bottom of the under hood fuse panel.
YOU WERE RIGHT CTSCOTT!!!!!!
I TOOK OFF THE PLUG WITH THE BLACK AND WHITE WIRE WHERE YOU SHOWED IN THE PICTURE, AND SOMEBODY HAD DONE SOMETHING BEFORE, (CAR WAS BOUGHT USED), THEY PUT THE WIRES BENDED INTO THE PLUG TO MAKE CONTACT.... SO I TOOK EVERYTHING APART OF WHAT WAS DONE BEFORE, AND WITH A PLIER I TIED UP THE CONTACTS AND SQUEEZED IT DOWN AND LEFT EVERYTHING HOW ITS SUPPOSED TO GO, SO I TURNED THE YARIS ON AND EVERYTHING IS WORKING PERFECTLY WELL, THANKS SO MUCH! I'M GONNA DRIVE IT AND IF ANYTHING ELSE POPS UP I'LL WRITE IT HERE, HOPEFULLY NOT!!!!!!
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:40 PM   #20
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I think this guy is a toyota employee, he knows to much. KUDOS CT, and thanks again. Holla at me.
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Old 06-24-2010, 03:11 PM   #21
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Is it really that far to reach?
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:52 PM   #22
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so far so good drove 40 mins., and around NO PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:26 PM   #23
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Is it really that far to reach?
I'm pretty sure Toystory was yelling with excitement.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:56 PM   #24
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I'm pretty sure Toystory was yelling with excitement.
oh yes I saved some $$ and I learned something

Last edited by toystory; 06-25-2010 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:12 PM   #25
cassioxp
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need help also

Fews days a go i turned my car on and all that hapened
im having the same kind problem with my yaris 2007
Power steering is not working
P/S light is on
Check engine light is on
A/C doesnt work
the speedometer doesnt work
I did a computer ckeck and a got the dtc P0500
Or fault speed sensor
I cant imagine how just a speed sensor can be doing all that
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cassioxp View Post
Fews days a go i turned my car on and all that hapened
im having the same kind problem with my yaris 2007
Power steering is not working
P/S light is on
Check engine light is on
A/C doesnt work
the speedometer doesnt work
I did a computer ckeck and a got the dtc P0500
Or fault speed sensor
I cant imagine how just a speed sensor can be doing all that
I would suspect that the speed sensor is not the cause, but rather another symptom.
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:01 AM   #27
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i have a some sort of a similar problem.. i have a yaris sedan 2006.. i can start the car without any problem but sometimes the dash board starts blinking its very hard to see though but when you carefully look at it you can see that it blinking and then the steering weel gets hard to turn..

i'm wondering whats the problem is this problem starts when i on the radio.. its kenwood.. i used my car without using my radio for quite some time the problem didnt come.. but recently someone had on the radio on its stand by and the problem came yesterday again.. but when i off and start the car it becomes normal again..
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Old 09-17-2011, 07:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aminda01 View Post
i have a some sort of a similar problem.. i have a yaris sedan 2006.. i can start the car without any problem but sometimes the dash board starts blinking its very hard to see though but when you carefully look at it you can see that it blinking and then the steering weel gets hard to turn..

i'm wondering whats the problem is this problem starts when i on the radio.. its kenwood.. i used my car without using my radio for quite some time the problem didnt come.. but recently someone had on the radio on its stand by and the problem came yesterday again.. but when i off and start the car it becomes normal again..
THis is probably an issue with too much power being put towards your sound system, maybe try using a capacitor
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:12 PM   #29
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My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamzombie View Post
My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?
If the battery terminal wires are good, check the battery terminals for corrosion and also check the battery and alternator. With a multimeter you can measure the battery voltage with the car off (which should read 12.5 or more volts) and with the engine running (which should measure about 14.1 volts with the alternator spinning).
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:41 PM   #31
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I checked the battery with a digital battery analyser at work, said it was good. Over 575 CCA, battery was putting out 12.3v w/ the engine off, at around 3k rpm it was slightly above 16v (high, I know, but wouldn't cause problems w/ dim lights, would it?)

Battery cables/terminals are clean and fuses are all good, ODB II reader returned no codes.

The car was in to the dealer for servicing earlier and they said the alternator was bad and needed to be replaced. (the symptoms didn't seems to correlate to their solution in my head, anyway. I'm an electronics tech in the military, but in no means an expert at vehicle electrical systems)
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Old 02-11-2012, 06:19 PM   #32
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16 volts is quite high. I think the voltage regulator within the alternator is bad.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:34 AM   #33
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I would recommend checking the electrical board. couple of years ago i removed my ac fan to clean it and later that night my abs light turned on and some other stuff happened like the cabin light will turn on while braking ... etc. I took it to the service center i deal with and they have told me when i reconnected the fan i did it wrong which melted something and that was the cause of my trouble. I can not remember the issue exactly because it was long ago. I hope this could help.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:05 AM   #34
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When I changed out my main ruse shown in CTscotts picture where the white wire and black wire were it was totally corroded....since I cleaned it and put some dielectric grese on them it is better than ever.I also had to change the main fuse out since I blew half of it.Car puts out more V now than when it was new...stays steady all day long with my amp on and everything at 14v before it was 12.9v.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:05 AM   #35
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THIS

Quote:
Originally Posted by brg88tx View Post
lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.
I hope someone else knows where this guy was going, since his post is 2 years old.... but I would answer YES to this question... that make a a difference?

I changed the pump, put everything back together, it started up nice n quiet now finally but:
Basically the only electrical devices that come on are the headlights. No tails, running lights, radio, heat n a/c, tire pressure light and P/S light are on. The battery light is NOT on so it is charging. Yes, I removed the alernator to do the job, of course, and NO I did not drop it or anything silly like that. This is the first time I I have ever had to work on this car.
If it makes a difference, I had to do this job after the water pump pully becoming so wobby it must have siezed for a decond and snapped the belt off at 75MPH.
Thanks for the help, anyone!
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:35 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighMilesForLife View Post
I hope someone else knows where this guy was going, since his post is 2 years old.... but I would answer YES to this question... that make a a difference?

I changed the pump, put everything back together, it started up nice n quiet now finally but:
Basically the only electrical devices that come on are the headlights. No tails, running lights, radio, heat n a/c, tire pressure light and P/S light are on. The battery light is NOT on so it is charging. Yes, I removed the alernator to do the job, of course, and NO I did not drop it or anything silly like that. This is the first time I I have ever had to work on this car.
If it makes a difference, I had to do this job after the water pump pully becoming so wobby it must have siezed for a decond and snapped the belt off at 75MPH.
Thanks for the help, anyone!

I am thinking that you did not pull the battery connectors when removing the alternator? If that is the case you likely shorted the high current wire from the alternator to the battery popping one of the large fusible links that is molded into the positive battery terminal assembly.
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