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Old 08-10-2012, 07:13 AM   #19
CTScott
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It is kind of strange that the service manual doesn't seem to have a section that shows how to work with the fuel filler. It just shows the removal of the hose clamp from where the flexible portion of the filler pipe meets the tank.

If you remove the rear left wheel you will see a plastic cover which protects the filler pipe assembly (pictured below). The cover has three clips that hold it to the wheel well. Once your remove it you have full access to remove the filler assembly.

Fuel Filler Cover.jpg

Fuel Tank.jpg
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:43 AM   #20
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I hope I am not speaking too soon, but today I went to fill up for the first time after taking this car to the dealer. The car was able to take gas now without the nozzle clicking off. I asked the attendant to go slowly out of habit, so it may still click off if they went full force. Before it will not take gas no matter how slow it pumped. Next time I will have them go full flow and see if it will click off.

Now, I am writing this in case someone has similar problem as me. This way they can try to diagnose the problem as I was able to talk with the technician who diagnosed my vehicle. He was very patient and took time to explain things to me clearly. He agreed that there are 3 lines out of the tank: the filler neck, the skinny hose along the neck, and the valve on top of the pump. He told me that he removed the filler neck off the car and checked for anything unusual, but didnt even find a bit of residue buildup. He also mentioned that the rubber hose that attaches to the tank was clear. He said they were both very clean. He also told me that the skinny vent line attached to the filler neck was clear but blew the thing with 140psi pressure. The technician went to fill up the gas afterwards and noted the gas nozzle still kicks off. He said the first 2 lines out of the tank were definitely not the problem.

He then proceeded to remove the fuel pump assembly from the tank and while doing so, he saw the rollover flap in the tank was bent and not closing properly. He said that may not matter for the fill up, but he said that was the first unusal thing he saw. Toyota technical support advised him that the tank needs to be replaced. If it was stuck in the closed position, I would agree with the tech support that this may be part of the problem. There is a vent valve on top of the fuel pump. He explained to me that it has a spring loaded valve that opens and closes depending on the pressure from the tank. I have never seen the tank except for the pictures on the internet or in the service manual so I cant comment on this. He said only tiny amount of air would make it through the valve when he tried to blow some air through it. That was the second abnormal thing he noted about my fuel system. He told me he took the fuel pump top plate apart and checked for anything obvious. Maybe him taking apart the valve dislodged something he missed i am not sure.

Now, I don't know what is correct, but he told me that the skinny hose along the fuel filler neck is not for venting the tank. The valve on top of the fuel pump lets the vapor out through the canister and into the atmosphere. I know wiki is not a good place to find answers but it basically supports what he told me.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onboard...vapor_recovery

He said the purpose of the skinny hole is to tell the gas pump when the tank gets full. I am not sure if i understood him correctly, but that skinny hose submerges in the gas and then gets blocked to create vacuum at the nozzle. Not really sure how that works, but having this tube blocked with spiderweb or anything is likely to mimic your tank being full.

So in future if anyone experiences strange problem like me, you can try and check that vent on top of the fuel pump.
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:45 AM   #21
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CTScott, thank you for the procedure to remove the filler neck. Hopefully the gas problem is gone now and I don't have to take the filler neck off the car... The informatin will probably come in handy one day...
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Old 08-11-2012, 07:55 AM   #22
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That definitely makes sense. That hose goes to the refueling valve on the canister assembly.
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Old 08-11-2012, 08:13 PM   #23
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From an environmental pov, the idea is to reduce the amount of fumes getting let out. So this is why we have charcoal canisters etc instead of just venting the tank to atmosphere. Then you go and open the fuel cap and spray agitated fuel in (releasing lots of fumes). This is not what they want. So, they create a system to suck in the fumes while you fuel up.

I would have to look at exactly how it is routed or see the diagram for the Yaris to say for sure, but I am assuming the 16mm(?) hose goes from the top of the filler neck to the top of the tank. Can anyone confirm this? I've not looked at the Yaris yet.
If so, this is the one and only vent hose you need in order to let the air out while refuelling.

Here's hoping your car is working fine now If you drive like me it will be a month before you find out though
Cheers.

PS: the reason the gas station pump shuts off is because there is a small hose inside the gas station pump nozzle. When this hose gets blocked with fuel, the pump shuts off. Nothing to do with the car.
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:21 AM   #24
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I have this exact same problem. I have the check Engine light and i get p0441 code. I will start off with checking the top of the fuel pump. I wonder if every 2007 HB has this problem.

LOL At first I thought someone was smuggling contraband in the tank. I bought this car used on Craigslist.
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Old 09-19-2012, 09:43 AM   #25
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My wife had this same problem on her Hyundai Accent. It was a combination of the cannister and the pump used to vent emissions vapors. She had to replace both items and it wasn't cheap, plus they had to order the parts. The one thing different in her case was the check engine light was on.

She saved money by taking it to a good independent repair shop as opposed to a dealer, but they still charged a lot of money.


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Old 09-20-2012, 04:35 PM   #26
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I found the charcoal canister today on a car that was totaled at 9K miles. They have the fuel pump as well. I think Ill replace that too.

Does the tank on the HB have to be dropped? Or it accessible by removing the back seat?
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Old 09-22-2012, 11:48 AM   #27
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The charcoal canister fixed the problem. I didnt need to replace the pump since it was already working.
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Old 09-22-2012, 03:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fidelio View Post
The charcoal canister fixed the problem. I didnt need to replace the pump since it was already working.
That makes sense, as the fuel pump has nothing to do with the evaporative emissions system. For future reference though, you can get to the fuel pump without dropping the tank. You have to remove the rear seat, and then there is an access panel to the top of the tank. A special spanner tool is required to easily remove the screwed on tank cover.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:04 PM   #29
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I am getting a p0441 now. I just replaced the gas cap so hopefully it will clear, if not its either a vacuum leak or purge valve. Man if it isnt one thing its another with these fuel emission system.

My Corolla ran forever without ever needing anything. I need to fix this problem since it has to be smog checked.
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Old 09-22-2012, 09:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fidelio View Post
I am getting a p0441 now. I just replaced the gas cap so hopefully it will clear, if not its either a vacuum leak or purge valve. Man if it isnt one thing its another with these fuel emission system.

My Corolla ran forever without ever needing anything. I need to fix this problem since it has to be smog checked.
Hopefully the gas cap does it. The biggest hassle is that it requires the six hour powered off after a drive to run the evaporative system test.
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Old 09-23-2012, 06:30 PM   #31
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The last thing I did yesterday after parking it in the garage was unplug the battery and the EVAP hoses then sprayed compressed air through the lines. Next I used a small amount of wd40 and sprayed compressed air inside the Purge VSV with the hoses being unplugged and allowed some minor gunk to land on a rag towel.

I let it sit over night. Today I plugged the battery back on and the check engine turned off on the first start, so I suspect that it was the Gas cap and with a dirty purge VSV.

I am sure this thread will be useful for someone running into the same problem with subcompact cars.

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Old 09-27-2012, 12:41 PM   #32
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Man.... all this reminds me of issues I had with my wifes 2001 camry. She had a tendency to "top off" her tank with the old click .... click.... click... at the pump. It began to slowly saturate the carbon canister and related on the old camry with fumes etc, and ate most of the vacumn check valve diaphrams up. No replacement check valves avail, just a $500 canister. uggh. Worked great until a year later, and couldn't fill the tank as you described. Found "mud dobbers" had started to build a nest in the vent hose. Cleaned them out and put stainless screen over it. Gotta love bugs in Texas.

I guess just trying to pass on to everyone don't top off with the click .... click.... thing.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:03 PM   #33
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Fueling problem solution.

My wife has a 2007 Yaris. A few days ago I was going to fill it with gas to discover I needed and eye dropper to put in the gas because the filler neck kept filling up with gas and shutting off the pump. Well today I fixed it. Here’s the problem, what causes it and how to correct it.
The think vent on top of the gas tank has a rollover valve. If the car ends up on its top this valve has a weight that will shove a piston into the vent closing it off. These vents are designed to stay closed even after the car is righted. When the valve is closed the air in the tank can’t vent to the carbon canister when the gas is being pumped in.
The way I think it gets closed without being inverted is because a Yaris is such a bump-mobile being as light as it is I think inertia drives this weight into the valve when hitting bumps in the road. Maybe a little at a time the vent just gets closed off, or a really big bump will do it maybe. This car has over 60,000 miles.
Here’s the fix. Detach the vent hose at the carbon canister; it’s the one toward the front of the car. Take off the gas cap. Use an air compressor to pump air pressure into the vent line; you’ll have to make up some kind of stopper to make the connection fairly air tight. Apply 15 or 20 PSI to the line for about 30 seconds. Pull out the connection and it should expel some of the air and gas fumes. (No smoking during this procedure.) You should be able to blow air into the tank and suck it out just with a hose in you mouth. In fact the hose in the mouth is a good way to confirm that the vent is closed.
This is what I did today after thinking over the situation for a couple days and reading the posts here and looking at the schematics. I went to the gas station and locked the handle on full and it just filled right up. Good luck, don’t buy parts, you can do this yourself.
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:55 AM   #34
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I guess you are all on your own.

Yesterday I went through all of the rig a ma roll to get registered in this sight to tell you folks what causes this and how to correct it but I still don’t see my post anywhere. It’s literally a 15 minute fix and no parts are needed and no money has to be spent. But ho well. Good luck!
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Old 07-03-2014, 07:58 AM   #35
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Well there it is!

Too bad I don’t feel like telling the story again. Maybe later.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:42 PM   #36
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I had this issue on my 02Hyundai Accent before I got my Yaris. Caused by filling tank "topping up" after the nozzle clicks off. This caused charcoal to move out of canister and into one of the black rubber hoses just beside the canister . I would have to reach under car just under the fuel door and remove one end of the hose and let a bunch of charcoal pellets fall onto the ground. I'd do this when I'd squeeze the hose and it would feel crunchy meaning it was full if charcoal. It beat buying a new canister.

Not sure if this helps at all with the Yaris bit I figured it can't hurt.
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