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03-20-2014, 11:54 PM | #19 |
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris HB Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4
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My previous alternator was overcharging by a good bit. From what the mechanics said I was outputting like a good 19volts idling, even more with the accelerator pushed down.
Sadly, these are aftermarkets, since the dealership wants a good $2,000+ to replace the alternator, especially since the one I have is still under a lifetime warranty, but I will definitely get one of those meters, and see what happens when the battery light is on, and what not. I've not checked the straps, as I didn't think of that possibility. Thanks for the ideas and input! I'll keep you guys posted. Last edited by Miryai; 03-21-2014 at 12:32 AM. |
03-21-2014, 09:47 AM | #20 |
Drives: '15 Dodge Challenger Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Grimsby, Ontario
Posts: 44
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my '07 with 300,000+ km still had the factory alternator on it and after a night at the drive in it started to flicker the battery light. took it to the mechanics and they replaced the battery and said it was fixed (even tho i said to them it was the alternator) and so of course i went back a week later with the same problem and a destroyed brand new battery. so got the alternator replaced and another new battery (for free).
still no idea what caused it, but it has worked fine for several months now |
03-21-2014, 10:09 AM | #21 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,966
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I'm thinking, if there's corrosion or a loose connector on the feedback wire to the alternator regulator, it might be reading the voltage as being too low and making the alternator put out maximum output.
I'd have to look at how the regulator works again in my EWD. |
03-21-2014, 10:32 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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03-23-2014, 02:50 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris HB Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4
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I purchased a volt meter. It was $5 including shipping and handling, and you never know, it might be useful for one of my house mate's cars later. But once I have it, I'm gonna plug it in and run, see if I can manage to look at it when the issue is happening. But all I know, is that it's starting to occur a lot more frequently. It's happening more and staying on longer, than when it looks like everything is fine.
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03-30-2014, 02:28 AM | #24 |
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris HB Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4
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Since, I hate when no one updates their problem. Voltmeter came in today. My car idles at the high 13's to low 14's. That doesn't seem to be too bad, but when the battery light comes on, it skyrockets to at least 17. I think the highest I saw was 18.3, but according to my mechanics the alternator is fine (I doubt it.). Taking it to the mechanic on Monday and telling them, and seeing if they fix it....if not, I guess I declare my car a lemon since I've replaced this damn thing four separate times already.
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03-30-2014, 06:55 AM | #25 | |
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03-30-2014, 07:15 AM | #26 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,966
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For what it's worth, wiggle that connector first too and see if that fixes the problem. Also after you unplug it, have a look inside for any green corrosion. There's also a chance the pin isn't tight enough.
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04-29-2014, 09:29 PM | #27 |
Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: motown
Posts: 339
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Another return of an old thread.
My 07 hb has the battery light on. My output is 13.5-13.8 with the fan, brights, emergency flashers, radio and defroster. The battery is 12.8V. The battery indicator does flicker every 5-7 seconds. Battery is new as of 1/14. I cleaned the ground & ground on the inner fender. Also cleaned the positive connection. The humidity here is high and is raining & will be until Sunday. The car was purchased 2/14 and I have no history. The dealer did do an inspection in February. Ideas/thoughts? Steve |
04-29-2014, 09:35 PM | #28 | |
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05-01-2014, 09:40 AM | #29 |
Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: motown
Posts: 339
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I removed all the connectors and cleaned.
Where I work they have a tester The results are: Battery V 12.72, 618cca, rating 575cca Starter test 11.25v Charging test v 13.94 I still have a glowing bright red battery light, I feel so cheap.. I'm hoping that this maybe humidity related & once we dry out it will go away. Steve |
05-01-2014, 10:35 AM | #30 | |
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05-01-2014, 06:52 PM | #31 |
Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: motown
Posts: 339
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The alternator is marked Toyota Denso. I don't know if it's
original. I bought the car last February after I totaled my 08'. Steve |
05-01-2014, 09:05 PM | #32 | |
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Quote:
There is a TSB on 07-08 alternators where the internals of the voltage regulator, within the alternator, corrode.
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05-02-2014, 10:58 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: motown
Posts: 339
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The numbers are:
17060-21150 10 42 10 - 8180 12v / (1?) 6 6 MN Toyota Denso Thanks Steve |
05-02-2014, 11:20 AM | #34 |
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That first number should be a 2, instead of a 1 (27060-21150), but the 21150 versus 21151 is the one which potentially has the non-sealed voltage regulator, which is prone to corrosion.
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05-02-2014, 06:23 PM | #35 |
Drives: 2007 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: motown
Posts: 339
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If there is a TB on it, does Toyota share any cost or they
are just aware a problem exits? Thanks much, Steve |
05-02-2014, 10:05 PM | #36 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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With a TB they are not required to do anything, particularly if you are out of warranty. The TBs are really just references for techs on common issues.
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