TYPE X

[ChinoCharles]

I finally purchased the other set of speakers. I now have a set of SPX-157R's (5.25") in storage, and I just sent payment for the matching SPX-177R (6.5"). That is 4 crossovers, 4 mid drivers and 4 tweeters at 300 maximum watts a piece. FUN! This has been a long process because I am an audiophile and a lifelong Alpine fanboy, and I decided a while ago that I wanted the Type X system. It is a little pricey, though... these 6.5" components go for about $225 on Ebay. So, I've been patient and have been looking for deals. Doing well so far. A friend of mine that used to install stereos for us in high school has since received his MECA cert and now works at a Best Buy, so I may have all of this installed there. Because of the staging issues with shoving 4 tweeters into a Yaris, I would trust him over anyone. Private shops are usually a lot more expensive, too.

ALPINE-SPX-F177R.jpg

• 17cm (6.5") Type X Components
• Peak Power 300W
• RMS Power 75W
• Frequency Response: 35Hz - 60kHz
• [Woofer Features]
• Wood Fiber Cone & Phase Integrated Dust Cap
• Non-Resonant Suspension Coupling (NRSC) with Reinforced Edge
• Low Resonance Multi-Roll Surround (LRMS)
• Braided Low-DCR Tinsel Leads
• Custom Cast Aluminum Frame
• Integrated Spider Landing & Vented Heat Transfer Plate
• FEA Optimized CRC T-Drive Motor Structure
• Airflow Optimized Dual-Flare Pole Vent
• High Quality Synthetic Black Spider
• Single Voice Coil Design, 4-Layer Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) Wire on Glass Fiber Bobbin
• High Grade Strontium Ferrite Magnet
• Gold Plated Terminals
• Snap Fit Mounting System
• [Tweeter Features]
• 32mm (1") Ring Radiator Diaphragm with Wave Guide
• 19mm Voice Coil, Copper Clad Aluminum (CCA) Wire on Aluminum Bobbin
• Periphery Venting System into Cast Aluminum Tuned Chamber with Integrated Heatsink
• Low Distortion Motor Structure with High Grade Neodymium Magnets and Copper Shorting Cap
• Twist Lock Installation Ring with Compact Swivel System
• [Network Features]
• Phase Coherent Design
• Integrated Level/Axis Adjustment
• Tweeter Protection Circuit
• Bi-Amp/Bi-Wire Capable
• 3-Way/Dual Midbass ready
• Ultra-High Grade Passive Components (Metallized Poly Capacitors, Heavy Gauge Air Core Inductors, Low Tolerance Heatsink Resistors, OFC Circuit Board Traces)
• Gold Plated Terminals and Connection Jumpers

Now, a question for you ICE people... what should I power all of this with?

[Blenjar]

From my understand you have 4 of those.

So if the RMS is 75, i guess a PDX-4.100 will cover it all or a PDX-4.150...but i still support the 4.100. I bought mine for roughly 300 to 400 bux. MSRP is in the 700.

-- Blen

[ChinoCharles]

But it puts out 25 watts RMS over what these call for. I'm not looking to blow my brand new speakers, any more than I'm looking to blow my ear drums... haha. Is that still the one?

What about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRP-F450-...QQcmdZViewItem

$200 shipped and 70 watts RMS per channel

[Blenjar]

Oh yea thats deff good. Why are my type R coaxial 100 and component 110? I had to get that PDX-4.100.

What you pick is beautiful n nicely priced. Go for it. Now its time to search for the best price!!

-- Blen

[ChinoCharles]

Good question Blen. I would like to know that as well. I have heard through the grapevine that this Type X line is setup for quality and not quantity... maybe that is why? They're not made to be ear-shattering loud, but they are made to sound really good.

[punch]

type x in my car, and they sound nice and loud to me.

[ChinoCharles]

What are you running to them punch?

[Blenjar]

But yea your amp that you found on ebay is deff great.

What head-unit will you use for those?

If you dont have anything n your looking for a GPS indash etc etc. I suggest the Pioneer Advic-D3. They are great & Cheap...roughly 700 including tax n shippin...

-- Blen

[Blenjar]

I got a question, totally has nothing to do with the speakers.
Well when you remove your rear panel (left or right) completely, can you tell me if you have a sort of yellow rectangular sort of sponge laying on the bottom between the car's outer layer and the panel.

Anyway I think something fell down n its rattlelin big time...i'll vacuum it out.

back to your topic !!

I wonder where you will install your tweeters..

-- Blen

[ChinoCharles]

I have an Alpine CDA-9807 head unit. I purchased it in 2003. I have no interest in in-car movies. Now a carputer would be a different beast and would warrant me getting a touch screen, but that is way down the road if at all.

The front tweeters are easy. The rears are going to be tricky, but I'll figure it out.

I have no idea about that sponge as I have never removed the rear paneling.

[earljail]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

I have an Alpine CDA-9807 head unit. I purchased it in 2003.

I've got the same deck, although it isn't installed, because I *am* into movies. I was choked that the 2004 models came with iPod control and the 9807 didn't. Plays MP3s great though.

I want to put it into my wife's '05 Echo Hatch. (Gen 1 Yaris) However, the display doesn't work most of the time. Think I can fix it?

[ChinoCharles]

Originally Posted by earljail

I've got the same deck, although it isn't installed, because I *am* into movies. I was choked that the 2004 models came with iPod control and the 9807 didn't. Plays MP3s great though.

I want to put it into my wife's '05 Echo Hatch. (Gen 1 Yaris) However, the display doesn't work most of the time. Think I can fix it?

I doubt it.

Bump for more advice!

[punch]

Originally Posted by ChinoCharles

I doubt it.

Bump for more advice!

got the pdx 4.100