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Old 04-29-2012, 02:54 PM   #19
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You'll be fine with the CCA. You've already purchased it and it will work.

What I did for my big 3 was to go to the owner of the shop and ask if I could root through his scrap wire bin. I found some good stuff in there. With all the wire, techflex, terminals and heat shrink...it only cost me $13 to make it all myself.

On the thought of the fusing, one could make a point to say you'd need TWO fuses. One after the alty positive and one at the battery positive. At some point that wire is going to be live. This is another reason why I simply secured my wire along the OEM routing. If it wants to come undone...it'll be in a serious, if not fatal, wreck. At that point I have other things I need to worry about as any fusing will have been completely obliterated.
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Old 04-29-2012, 03:01 PM   #20
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You'll be fine with the CCA. You've already purchased it and it will work.

What I did for my big 3 was to go to the owner of the shop and ask if I could root through his scrap wire bin. I found some good stuff in there. With all the wire, techflex, terminals and heat shrink...it only cost me $13 to make it all myself.

On the thought of the fusing, one could make a point to say you'd need TWO fuses. One after the alty positive and one at the battery positive. At some point that wire is going to be live. This is another reason why I simply secured my wire along the OEM routing. If it wants to come undone...it'll be in a serious, if not fatal, wreck. At that point I have other things I need to worry about as any fusing will have been completely obliterated.

that amp kit i have contains a 50 amp fuse, im a bit sketchy as to why it only has a 50 amp fuse if its rated for "1000 watts" , with my 4 channel im looking at 90 amps ( 30A from mono amp, 60A from 4chan amp), i can easily swap out the 50 amp fuse for a 100 amp?, instead of running 0 gauge, can i run 4 gauge? (knukonceptz). ( smaller and easier to route behind the engine), if thats the case then all i need is a few more feet of 4 gauge and a distribution bock in the trunk..)



the engine heat doesnt affect the exterior coating?

edit: was doing some research for the past few hours ,reading up on gauge sizes and amperage capabilities.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

from what i understand i can easily swap out the 50amp fuse near my battery and put in a 100 amp ANL fuse, and then run new Knu.K 4 gauge for my big 3, and throw in a fused distribution block with 1 4 gauge in and 2 4 gauge out for my amps( with matching fuse ratings for each amp), im pretty sure i understand this now right? :|

Last edited by 09sedan; 04-29-2012 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:51 PM   #21
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You should be able to use a larger rated fuse.

The wire gauge is all about resistance. The less resistance/surface area the wire has, the better. 0 gauge is sweet, but if you have to use 4 gauge...

"4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts" -BCAE1.com

IMHO, the wire kit manufacturers say "1000" Watts to specify how much Wattage off your amps at minimum the wire can handle. Another example is what the Army uses for their 100 Ampere runs...They use 0000 gauge main insulated wires in a massively protected sleeve run. Take a look at this pic:



See the giant wire running across the front of the generator? That's our power wire. >:D In this instance we use two different types of power wire. This size and one like the roll that you can see in the background on the grass there. That's the "small one". The military rates the big wire run as 100 Amperes. *chuckle* It'll handle a wee bit more than that. Imagine what that one can handle when your 4 gauge can truly handle 100+ Amperes. To put it in perspective, these generators create 100 kW...of true power.

In my case I'm running 0 gauge back to the distro block, fusing the one in to three out and then running all 4 gauge power to each of my three amplifiers.
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #22
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Tolm that fuse is too far from the battery. If that wire were ever to come out of that holder it would be flopping around and has the potential to ground off and cause a short. If you look at the two red lines l Right of circle l you have about 3 feet of wire that can get punctured that the fuse will not protect.

Pretty much all of the wire to the right of the circled area is not protected (fused)
Thanks, man

I think I understand what you are trying to say.. I am thinking to myself - If I move my second (alt to battery) fuse closer to the battery what will this change? Will I have the same long unprotected circuit to the left of the fuse ?
(which is now to the right of the fuse)


Anyways, I am pretty paranoid when it comes to power cables - tried to secure them so that they would not even move/rub or shake while I drive (wherever I could) .. here is a better pic

http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96...36/full_image/
http://photo.qip.ru/users/tolmach/96...41/full_image/
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #23
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Tolm,

I just didn't see a fuse near the battery, that's why I asked.

@ 09 - that point would not serve as a good engine to chassis since it's not actually a connection ON the engine block. Take a look under the engine...hint hint.
Thanks

My Big 3 is more like Big3 Plus )) because I made several (negative) connections between the alternator body and various points on the engine block, engine computer, car body, and (I think.. do not remember) the battery (-) terminal
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:16 PM   #24
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I see, i was quoted 220$ by a performance alternator builder that was posted on this site for me to send my factory alternator rebuilt to output 160 amps, if i go 0gauge it will leave me with room to expand if i decided to... Hmm.. I think i know what to do now :)
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Old 04-29-2012, 05:58 PM   #25
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Tolm,

Why the fuse placement on the other side of the engine bay?

@packetrace - you mean the heat shrink? :)
I meant the techflex...where did you bought it ?
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:24 PM   #26
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If you like that techflex, you'll trip on my speaker wire runs and my cooling fan run.

I get my techflex from various sources. Take a look at the seller, on eBay. That's a start.
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Old 04-30-2012, 11:16 PM   #27
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Here's what I did with mine.
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:00 AM   #28
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If you like that techflex, you'll trip on my speaker wire runs and my cooling fan run.

I get my techflex from various sources. Take a look at the seller, on eBay. That's a start.
Have pics ?

I really like the look of it!!
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:32 AM   #29
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I'll have to take pics of my sub wiring. It's a cool black & white checker pattern.

Oh and these pics are from early last month. It's a little more tidy now.
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:39 AM   #30
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WOW !! thats is very nice!!!!!!! WHat is the material over the roadkill ?
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Old 05-01-2012, 10:56 AM   #31
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That is ensolite foam. Personally, after trying Ensolite, Dynaliner, and Overkill...overkill puts them all to shame in it's performance.

How's that for an opinion? :)
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Old 05-01-2012, 12:35 PM   #32
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I'd be careful putting such a big fuse on that 4 gauge, it may actually be 6 gauge. Especially on such a long run.


Also here's some reading material on actual test on different brands of wire.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wirin...omparison.html

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Old 05-01-2012, 12:45 PM   #33
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Note if this wire ever came lose the first thing it would touch would be the hood of the car and cause a short hopefully one of the diodes to your alt will burn up before you car catches fire.
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:42 PM   #34
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That is ensolite foam. Personally, after trying Ensolite, Dynaliner, and Overkill...overkill puts them all to shame in it's performance.

How's that for an opinion? :)
Thats perfect!! I treated my front doors with overkill so far...

I will receive ensolite this week and MAT...I'll order roadkill to cover the whole car! :D
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Old 05-01-2012, 06:38 PM   #35
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Note if this wire ever came lose the first thing it would touch would be the hood of the car and cause a short hopefully one of the diodes to your alt will burn up before you car catches fire.
That is why I ran my wire with the OEM bundling under the engine cover. If that's good enough for an OEM location, then it's good enough for me.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:13 PM   #36
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I know yours has to be a snug fit cause I used a good 4 gauge and it fit in there tight. I could imagine how 0 gauge must be. I feel comfortable running up to 150 amps on my 4 gauge just because the run is only like 3 feet.

I don't know why you'd wanna run that wire and put the fuse on the engine cover. I can understand wanting to show off that beefy wire but I wouldn't feel comfortable with all the vibration hitting that fuse constantly while the cars on.
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