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Old 07-04-2009, 12:53 AM   #1
Shroomster
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Electrical question

I'm looking for confirmation or constructive critiscism.

2001 Honda Civic

Ok, Alternator Power to battery cable corroded at terminal on alternator and fell apart.

***wire is 10.0 gauge AVX ok, it's just aluminum colored sorry, hehe....

it's actually looking like thin stranded copper with tin coating.

pretty sure it's not fusible link (just checked charging system WD and I don't see any***

I for the time being spliced approx 8" of copper 8AWG with a new eyelet to the terminal and to the end of the non-corroded part of the line.



This is most likely a week-long temporary fix (can't get back to it until next thursday)

anyone see any problems or not?


***UPDATED***

Last edited by Shroomster; 07-04-2009 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 07-04-2009, 01:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shroomster View Post
I'm looking for confirmation or constructive critiscism.

2001 Honda Civic

Ok, Alternator Power to battery cable corroded at terminal on alternator and fell apart.

Wire is aluminum 10.0 gauge not sure if it's VLT(w/o going and looking)

I for the time being spliced approx 8" of copper 8AWG with a new eyelet to the terminal and to the end of the non-corroded part of the line.



This is most likely a week-long temporary fix (can't get back to it until next thursday)

anyone see any problems or not?
Aluminum is never used for car wiring - that wire was likely a fusible link. Those are made of a material that somewhat resembles aluminum.

Your repair sounds OK for get-you-home. Make sure that you get it properly fixed ASAP. If the original wire was a fusible link, replacing it with copper could lead to the whole car going up in smoke, if the cause of the burnout isn't addressed.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:35 PM   #3
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OK JUST TO MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT CLEARER


THE WIRE THAT RUNS FROM THE ALTERNATOR to the battery (the single wire that is bolted to an alternator)
is what corroded , it corroded because the wire end eyelet was separating from the wire and it started arcing and corroding and the regulator was pushing voltage through a few highly corroded strands that were still attatched and thusly it failed.

I needed a quick either permanent fix or temp fix, so my step-father in-law crimped an eyelet to a an 8" piece of copper 8AWG wire. he then crimped (butt-spliced) the new lead to the old power wire (after I cut out the corroded portion) and I resecured the newly repaired wire to the alt.


I need to know if the smaller 8AWG wire is ok crimped to a gauge larger.

the 8AWG has less strands but they are large
the 10.0 AVX has more smaller strands.


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Old 07-04-2009, 05:31 PM   #4
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The old wire looks like a fusible link to me.

8 gauge wire is thicker than 10 gauge, so you're OK there.
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:02 PM   #5
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well that's the thing, I know about gauge sizes and all but the old wire looks to be thicker than the new....unless the insulation is just thicker on the old wire....I dunno.


we both knew it 'looked' smaller and both know I'm going to need to keep an eye on the splice to make sure it doesn't get too hot, but hell kinda hard to check it accurately when it's smack up against the exhaust manifold....
I'm probably not going to feel 100% comfortable until i can get to a junkyard and get that part of the wire off another car....
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:46 PM   #6
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8 AWG is heaver than 10 AWG. The smaller the number the heavier the wire.

Insulation can fool you. I have seen some higher voltage rated insulation thinner than some of the lower voltage stuff. All depends on what the insulation is made of.
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:59 PM   #7
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I thought for it to be AWG gauged it has to say AWG behind the number on the wiring?
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:08 PM   #8
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I think CTScott or someone is an Electrical Engineer that might have the definitive answer.
Most likely, since that car was made in Japan, that it is a Japanese standard or maybe
even a Chinese manufactured cable not made to the AWG standard specifications.
(AWG = American Wire Gauge)
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:11 PM   #9
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Yeah I pm'ed Scott and he got back to me and he gave me a nod so I feel better at least about this being able to sustain until I get to a junkyard or longer
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:53 PM   #10
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Fusible links usually have rubber-looking insulation. Their function (like all fuses) is to melt when an overload occurs. You can buy fuse link wire by the foot at auto parts stores.
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Fusible links usually have rubber-looking insulation. Their function (like all fuses) is to melt when an overload occurs. You can buy fuse link wire by the foot at auto parts stores.
lol I get it I get it....

thanks for all the replies and help everyone
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