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11-15-2009, 11:00 PM | #19 | |
Banned
Drives: 2007 Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 189
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Quote:
I've got a 2007 and I would be surprised if the auto-tranny maintenence schedule for your 2009 is different. I currently have 74,000 miles on my Yaris and at 100,000 I will have the ws drained and replentished by the dealership. They charge around $120 for this service and they have the machinery and such so I'll just pay. Then at 150,000 and after each 50,000 miles I will do the same thing, as per the manual. |
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11-17-2009, 02:25 AM | #20 |
Joey
Drives: '14 Scion xD 5-speed Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: El Monte, Ca
Posts: 3,529
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A user here referred me to this link before my last service: http://www.toyotaownersonline.com/pa...rvice/diy.html
It covers everything up 120K
__________________
Formerly owned Met-Met. '07 Yaris LB 5-speed. A forum post should be like a skirt: Long enough to cover the subject but short enough to keep things interesting. "I don't have an anger problem. I have an idiot problem." -Hank Hill |
11-17-2009, 02:34 PM | #21 |
School'er of hard knocks
Drives: Silver Yaris 4dr. HB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sudbury, On
Posts: 556
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Mine's a 2007, in Canada. The specs stay the same up to 2009. It would be interesting if the US and Canada have different specs, yet relatively the save climate (save for far South, or far North). A proper flush, with a car lift, is easy to do. They have to hook up a "dummy" electrical current to engage the transmission pump, to flush out all the fluid (along with the pumping of the flush machine itself - this is per the shop manual). You can drain and fill it yourself, but you're only getting a little over half the fluid out at a time. Even if you do your own disposal in someone's dump fluid tanks, it'll take roughly twenty one quarts to flush the majority of it out. For that price, you may as well just get it flushed by the dealer. I'm sorta on the fence in regards to pan drops. Yes, there is a mesh filter in there that theoretically needs replacing, but the likely stripped hex bolts that result from trying to drop the pan, as well as possibly warping the pan, or worse, the interference surface of the pan, makes me think it's just not worth the risk. As always, that's something up to you to decide. The only extra advice I can add is that once the fluid is flushed by the dealer, make sure he checks the level while the fluid is warm: Once again, all the info is available in the shop manual, which is available for download somewhere on YW. |
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