Tanabe front strut tower brace.

[Herbicidal]

I bought one from Garm at Micro Image and recall seeing this install tip on his web page:

Adjustable Preload:

A very common error when installing tower bars, it is always recommended to raise the vehicle when installing so that the load of the shock uppermounts on the shock towers is relieved and balanced out. When raised, and the tower bar is placed onto the vehicle, the preload can be adjusted and set. After it is bolted on and the car is lowered, each shock tower will have equal load and will prevent independent movements of each shock. This will provide an extremely noticeable difference after installing. If a tower bar is installed on a car that is not raised, great benefits will be missed.

I read through earlier threads (one in the DIY) section and it seemed that everyone raised the car, removed the wheels, installed the shock tower brackets, put the wheels back on lowered the car to the ground, THEN installed the bar. If I'm reading the above install tip correctly, the whole install should be done with the front end off the ground. Am I reading that right?

Plus I'm not sure about the preload part. Can someone school me on that? Thanks!

[YarisSedan]

I installed mine on the ground without a jack and drove it home when i got home i jacked it up and preloaded the bar and put it back down. Drove it again afterwards there was a noticible difference on really sharp lane changes.

Only needs to be off the ground when you adjust the red bar and set it in place to tighten.

[cali yaris]

I believe this only applies to bars with adjustable tension like the Tanabe. Straight bolt-on bars (like the Ultra Racing one) can be just bolted on with the car down.

[Herbicidal]

Thanks Gents! It is done. I did the whole install with the front end in the air. I'm sure my car is faster now! Tomorrow may be the test. I have some great curves to try it on if traffic allows. I used Loctite Red on the threads of the shock tower bolts/nuts. I don't want those to loosen up. They were a pain in the a$$ to reach and tighten down with the 14mm socket I had. Perhaps an off-set open headed wrench might have worked better. I'm not sure if I just made that name up or not. Anyway, if nothing else the bar helped dress up the engine compartment.

Thanks Garm for the prompt service, as always.

[yarr_is]

tanabe bars... great stuff... post pics!

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by yarr_is

tanabe bars... great stuff... post pics!

I'll try to snap a pic later today and post it. It was dark by the time I was done last night.

[cali yaris]

loctite red = baller!

[Herbicidal]

Here's two pics. The bar does sit pretty darn close to the negative battery post, but it has to be low for the hood to close without touching the bar. I was not able to pitch it through my favorite corners today. Too much traffic!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Have fun removing the negative terminal! I have to unbolt the driver's side and loosen the passenger side, raise the bar, and then remove the negative terminal. Loctite Red!!!!!!!!!!!? Not planning on removing the bars, ever? hehehe. On a Loctite 242 blue on some bolts on my front doors for the window mechanism. I'm tired of the windows becoming misaligned.

[Herbicidal]

The brackets are there for good! Now I know a guy at a muffler shop that could cut them off for me if it ever comes to it. Thankfully the bar is easy to remove as needed.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

oh, hahaha. That's cool. We used those lock-washers when we installed mine.

[IsLNdbOi]

Originally Posted by Herbicidal

I bought one from Garm at Micro Image and recall seeing this install tip on his web page:

Adjustable Preload:

A very common error when installing tower bars, it is always recommended to raise the vehicle when installing so that the load of the shock uppermounts on the shock towers is relieved and balanced out. When raised, and the tower bar is placed onto the vehicle, the preload can be adjusted and set. After it is bolted on and the car is lowered, each shock tower will have equal load and will prevent independent movements of each shock. This will provide an extremely noticeable difference after installing. If a tower bar is installed on a car that is not raised, great benefits will be missed.

I read through earlier threads (one in the DIY) section and it seemed that everyone raised the car, removed the wheels, installed the shock tower brackets, put the wheels back on lowered the car to the ground, THEN installed the bar. If I'm reading the above install tip correctly, the whole install should be done with the front end off the ground. Am I reading that right?

Plus I'm not sure about the preload part. Can someone school me on that? Thanks!

I hope the guys at Tanabe installed it this way on my Yaris during the R&D session. How can I tell if it was installed this way vs. w/ the car on the ground?

[Herbicidal]

Originally Posted by IsLNdbOi

I hope the guys at Tanabe installed it this way on my Yaris during the R&D session. How can I tell if it was installed this way vs. w/ the car on the ground?

I don't know that you could tell just by looking at it. If in doubt, remove the bar, then get the front end of the car off the ground and reinstall the bar. If the bar goes back on without having to adjust it, then I would say it was installed with the front end in the air. Anyone feel free to correct me if my logic is flawed it's still early and I haven't had a full cup of coffee yet.