Electrical Gremlin - Toyota Yaris Forums

Golddeenoh · 04-18-2014, 01:28 PM

For some reason, every now and then, the radio cuts out when I brake or signal. Also the fuel/odometer gauge kind of flickers when the car is running.

Alternator output was around 13 volts, no noticeable out electrical issues. all though i'm pretty sure my exhaust is lose and keeps hitting the undercarriage on acceleration and deceleration.

CTScott · 04-18-2014, 02:24 PM

Do you have an OEM or aftermarket radio and have you done any under-dash wiring work?

And, 13V is low for alternator output. It should be in the 13.5 to 14.1 volt range with the engine running.

Golddeenoh · 04-18-2014, 05:04 PM

the only electrical things that are not EOM are the fog lights, grounding kit, and scan gauge.

Today on the way back from the doctor the car completely shut off electrically and stalled.

CTScott · 04-18-2014, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddeenoh

the only electrical things that are not EOM are the fog lights, grounding kit, and scan gauge.

Today on the way back from the doctor the car completely shut off electrically and stalled.

OK. That really sounds like the alternator is bad or the battery has a bad cell and is pulling the alternator down.

Golddeenoh · 04-18-2014, 05:20 PM

alternator out put reading from the OBDII/Scangauge was 13.7, and the battery isn't very old It is only about a year old, but I guess I will test it, and make sure the connections are good.

It hadn't done anything like this since i had a short in the column from the fog light kit.

I did take the Battery out Wednesday to get to that tranny mount and tighten it up, makes me think that It might be making a poor connection at the battery some how.

why? · 04-18-2014, 06:42 PM

Reminds me of a problem my dad's duster used to have. stupid insane electrical issues used to happen to him, the best one was one time on the highway the car just flat out stalled, the person in the passenger side opened the door and it started right back up. Turned out to be two stripped wires were crossing.

Just check all the wiring, it is probably something that will be obvious with a visual inspection.

CTScott · 04-18-2014, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Golddeenoh

alternator out put reading from the OBDII/Scangauge was 13.7, and the battery isn't very old It is only about a year old, but I guess I will test it, and make sure the connections are good.

It hadn't done anything like this since i had a short in the column from the fog light kit.

I did take the Battery out Wednesday to get to that tranny mount and tighten it up, makes me think that It might be making a poor connection at the battery some how.

13.6 is OK, so it very well may be the battery connection.

nookandcrannycar · 04-18-2014, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by why?

the best one was one time on the highway the car just flat out stalled, the person in the passenger side opened the door and it started right back up.

One of those things (re anyone) that could only really have happened

.

04-18-2014, 01:28 PM	#1
Golddeenoh Takes corners too fast! View User's Garage Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 830	Electrical Gremlin For some reason, every now and then, the radio cuts out when I brake or signal. Also the fuel/odometer gauge kind of flickers when the car is running. Alternator output was around 13 volts, no noticeable out electrical issues. all though i'm pretty sure my exhaust is lose and keeps hitting the undercarriage on acceleration and deceleration. __________________ mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood

04-18-2014, 02:24 PM	#2
CTScott ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: USA, CT Posts: 13,460	Do you have an OEM or aftermarket radio and have you done any under-dash wiring work? And, 13V is low for alternator output. It should be in the 13.5 to 14.1 volt range with the engine running. __________________

04-18-2014, 05:04 PM	#3
Golddeenoh Takes corners too fast! View User's Garage Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 830	the only electrical things that are not EOM are the fog lights, grounding kit, and scan gauge. Today on the way back from the doctor the car completely shut off electrically and stalled. __________________ mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood

04-18-2014, 05:20 PM	#5
Golddeenoh Takes corners too fast! View User's Garage Drives: Absolute Red 2009 Yaris HB Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Columbia, SC Posts: 830	alternator out put reading from the OBDII/Scangauge was 13.7, and the battery isn't very old It is only about a year old, but I guess I will test it, and make sure the connections are good. It hadn't done anything like this since i had a short in the column from the fog light kit. I did take the Battery out Wednesday to get to that tranny mount and tighten it up, makes me think that It might be making a poor connection at the battery some how. __________________ mods:15''Drag DR21 w/Nitto NeoGen 205/50R15, Tanabe DF210 lowering springs 1.6/1.8, TRD Rear Sway Bar, Tanabe Front Sway Bar, Micro Image Short Throw Shift Kit (both in and under), 8.64lbs flywheel, F1 Stage 4 Clutch, AEM Cold Air Intake (Red), Megan Racing Header, DC Sports Axle Back Exhaust, Micro Image Crank Pulley, NST lite Alternator Pulley, ARP Manifold Stud Kit,Tanabe Front Strut Tower Brace, ScanGuage II, Micro Image Silicone Radiator Hose Kit (Red), NRG Carbon Fiber Shift Knob (round), 2009-2011 Toyota Yaris Liftback Foglight kit, NRG Grounding Kit (Red), Hella Horns(Red),CF Hood

04-18-2014, 06:42 PM	#6
why? Only Happy When it Rains View User's Garage Drives: Yaris LB Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: harnett county NC Posts: 4,097	Reminds me of a problem my dad's duster used to have. stupid insane electrical issues used to happen to him, the best one was one time on the highway the car just flat out stalled, the person in the passenger side opened the door and it started right back up. Turned out to be two stripped wires were crossing. Just check all the wiring, it is probably something that will be obvious with a visual inspection. __________________ Colin Chapman disciple

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