Blitz S/C being installed this Saturday! - Page 3 - Toyota Yaris Forums

cali yaris · 11-17-2008, 12:04 AM

nice progress, and I bow before thee for doing it yourself.

<-- see? that's me bowing

LtNoogie · 11-17-2008, 12:16 AM

Thanks Garm. It's fun working on a car again. The last car I tore apart to work on was my 1973 Chevy Vega.

I would not recommend this to someone who does not have a second means of transportation.

LtNoogie · 11-17-2008, 12:37 AM

The A spacer was 7mm like the picture showed. The two B spacers were 4mm each. I'm kinda leery too but everything is perfectly lined up. We tried another configuration and the alternator pulley was at an angle with the others.

TEHxFALLEN V1.2 · 11-17-2008, 01:01 AM

You're doing it man!! I cannot wait until you're done with this!

Doc Zaius · 11-17-2008, 01:25 PM

LtNoogie... congrats on the purchase, and on tackling the install yourself. That's what I did... it was long and tough, but feels good getting it done yourself.

Anyhow, glad you found out about the fuel pressure release... I posted in echo_hrs' old thread about that. You can find the instruction on how to do it on the first page of the Fuel section of the Yaris Factory Manual we have here on the site.

The spacers... weird... I'll double-check mine. I followed the instructions, and everything lined up properly. I'm thinking you have spacer B on either the wrong side of the alternator bracket, or it's on the wrong bolt (maybe should be on the lower bolt?).

Oh yeah, the a/c lines... mine were REALLY in the way. There is a plastic clamp holding one of them (bottom-center of your last picture on Page 3)... if you take that off, it allows you to pull them forward a fair bit... maybe an inch. I took that off, pulled them forward, and then used a bunch of big zap-straps to keep the line pulled forward and left (away from the engine). One of the bolts on the a/c line is still sticking out pretty close to the belt, and I have yet to dremel it down.

Oh yeah, the belt. If you haven't bought it yet, you need to buy a new 66" belt b/c the one that comes with the kit is too loose. But don't buy the 6-rib belt... get an 8-rib belt, and then you can simply cut it in half, and have two belts, instead of just one 4-rib belt and throwing out two ribs.

Other upcoming advice... make sure you lightly grease the fuel injector o-rings (I used WD-40... not great, but ok) when you're trying to put the fuel rail back on... that's a big one for sure... makes putting them on much easier and seats them properly. If you haven't taken the long stud bolts off the plastic manifold yet, I had to use really big vice grips to do it (with some de-seizing spray)... the little Torx heads just sheared off.

Uh... that's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and keep plugging away! My car was down for almost 3 weeks.

cali yaris · 11-17-2008, 01:48 PM

Not any more; the correct 4-rib belt is now supplied with the kits I have.

Quote:

Oh yeah, the belt. If you haven't bought it yet, you need to buy a new 66" belt b/c the one that comes with the kit is too loose. But don't buy the 6-rib belt... get an 8" belt, and then you can simply cut it in half, and have two belts, instead of just one 4-rib belt and throwing out two ribs.

Doc Zaius · 11-17-2008, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

Not any more; the correct 4-rib belt is now supplied with the kits I have.

COOL!

cali yaris · 11-17-2008, 02:38 PM

anyone want a hood deflector?

(sorry, couldn't help it)

TheRealEnth · 11-17-2008, 03:04 PM

advertising wherever i go!!!!! NOOOOOOO

LtNoogie · 11-17-2008, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

anyone want a hood deflector?

(sorry, couldn't help it)

I was hoping that the S/C would have to stick out through the hood like the old muscle cars but then it would be facing sideways. Kinda too weird that way.

Garm, we'll discuss hoods later. I need to PM you later about some AutoMeter gauges.

LtNoogie · 11-17-2008, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc Zaius

LtNoogie... congrats on the purchase, and on tackling the install yourself. That's what I did... it was long and tough, but feels good getting it done yourself.

Uh... that's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and keep plugging away! My car was down for almost 3 weeks.

Doc, thanks for all the pointers. All this time, I thought you were the guy who did his install in 7 hours! I am hoping to get the little car running by late Wednesday night.

I am feeling the pressure to get a video for PETERPOOP.

cali yaris · 11-17-2008, 03:56 PM

the hood deflector comment was for Doc Zaius... an inside joke, and a bad one..

TheRealEnth · 11-17-2008, 06:51 PM

it was funny nonetheless =p

id3379 · 11-17-2008, 11:58 PM

good job so far dude, watch out for them vampire bats!

LtNoogie · 11-18-2008, 02:42 AM

First picture is of the alternator after installing it for the Nth time. The pulleys line up parallel and no Spacer B was needed on this car.

The new intake manifold is bolted to the compressor.

The fuel rail comes off with no problems and no gasoline squirting.

We tried fit checking the manifold/blower onto the head but encountered interference at this round sensor thing.

It turns out that Blitz left too much material when they cast the intake manifold and it was hitting the sensor thing. The blue line shows the aluminum that goes beyond the manifold gasket.

Nothing that a good filing can't take care of!

This is after filing off the excess aluminum. My younger brother is smarter and braver than I am when it comes to cars.

We find that we are hitting the alternator when trying to install the manifold/blower. The new alternator bracket was installed wrong! After moving the new alternator bracket, there is no more interference from that area.

The new alternator position is so close to one of the metal air conditioning lines that I am going to wear a hole in it and lose all my freon. I need to put a rubber hose or something on that metal line to protect it from the alternator. When the engine is rev'd, the torque will pitch the engine forward and the alternator will hit the metal air conditioning line.

Ok, one last look over before the manifold/blower goes on. The dipstick tube gets reinstalled 180 out.

Tada! The manifold/blower is on... almost. We could not get it mounted with the left bottom manifold bolt in-place. It's almost impossible to line up the five holes with the five studs/bolts.

We have to figure out how to do this. We tried to screw the last manifold bolt on after the manifold was on the head but it would not go. That plus I dropped a socket into the engine compartment so we had to waste 10 minutes fishing it out.

Lastly, I am short one intake manifold nut so tomorrow is a day off from the install while I go to Toyota to buy a nut and maybe another manifold bolt.

eTiMaGo · 11-18-2008, 08:17 AM

wow, I must applaud you for the awesome step-by-step installation updates, I think it will really help those who are considering one but not sure exactly what is involved in the installations. So, major kudos

Can't wait to see this lil beast running!

LtNoogie · 11-18-2008, 09:34 AM

Got it. Thanks! We were contemplating sawing off the bolt to make it shorter and other crazy workarounds. Mike, I almost called you last night but it would have been past 11:00 your time so we mounted and unmounted the manifold/blower three times before calling it quits.

I am still missing one manifold nut so I still have to visit the dealer. So today I give my brother the evening off to play with his 1-month old baby. Hopefully, my sister-in-law won't be as mad.

LtNoogie · 11-18-2008, 12:14 PM

From some of the previous posts, I'm dreading the wiring more than the mechanical stuff.

11-17-2008, 12:04 AM	#37
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	nice progress, and I bow before thee for doing it yourself. <-- see? that's me bowing __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

11-17-2008, 12:16 AM	#38
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	Thanks Garm. It's fun working on a car again. The last car I tore apart to work on was my 1973 Chevy Vega. I would not recommend this to someone who does not have a second means of transportation. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

11-17-2008, 01:01 AM	#40
TEHxFALLEN V1.2 Banned View User's Garage Drives: '08 Lexus IS-F Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Calabasas, CA Posts: 1,890	You're doing it man!! I cannot wait until you're done with this! __________________ DON'T LIKE ME? TAKE A SEAT WITH THE REST OF THE BITCHES WHO ARE WAITING FOR ME TO GIVE A FUCK. Sponsored by: Micro Image http://microimageonline.com

11-17-2008, 01:25 PM	#41
Doc Zaius Lurker supreme! View User's Garage Drives: old and boosted! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada Posts: 792	LtNoogie... congrats on the purchase, and on tackling the install yourself. That's what I did... it was long and tough, but feels good getting it done yourself. Anyhow, glad you found out about the fuel pressure release... I posted in echo_hrs' old thread about that. You can find the instruction on how to do it on the first page of the Fuel section of the Yaris Factory Manual we have here on the site. The spacers... weird... I'll double-check mine. I followed the instructions, and everything lined up properly. I'm thinking you have spacer B on either the wrong side of the alternator bracket, or it's on the wrong bolt (maybe should be on the lower bolt?). Oh yeah, the a/c lines... mine were REALLY in the way. There is a plastic clamp holding one of them (bottom-center of your last picture on Page 3)... if you take that off, it allows you to pull them forward a fair bit... maybe an inch. I took that off, pulled them forward, and then used a bunch of big zap-straps to keep the line pulled forward and left (away from the engine). One of the bolts on the a/c line is still sticking out pretty close to the belt, and I have yet to dremel it down. Oh yeah, the belt. If you haven't bought it yet, you need to buy a new 66" belt b/c the one that comes with the kit is too loose. But don't buy the 6-rib belt... get an 8-rib belt, and then you can simply cut it in half, and have two belts, instead of just one 4-rib belt and throwing out two ribs. Other upcoming advice... make sure you lightly grease the fuel injector o-rings (I used WD-40... not great, but ok) when you're trying to put the fuel rail back on... that's a big one for sure... makes putting them on much easier and seats them properly. If you haven't taken the long stud bolts off the plastic manifold yet, I had to use really big vice grips to do it (with some de-seizing spray)... the little Torx heads just sheared off. Uh... that's all I can think of for now. Good luck, and keep plugging away! My car was down for almost 3 weeks. __________________ 2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door Last edited by Doc Zaius; 11-17-2008 at 02:02 PM.

11-17-2008, 02:38 PM	#44
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	anyone want a hood deflector? (sorry, couldn't help it) __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

11-17-2008, 03:04 PM	#45
TheRealEnth Beast View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Blz Blu LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 1,365	advertising wherever i go!!!!! NOOOOOOO __________________ One you've taken a yaris for a spin, there's no turning back. Its a Chao!!!

11-17-2008, 03:56 PM	#48
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	the hood deflector comment was for Doc Zaius... an inside joke, and a bad one.. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

11-17-2008, 06:51 PM	#49
TheRealEnth Beast View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Blz Blu LB Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 1,365	it was funny nonetheless =p __________________ One you've taken a yaris for a spin, there's no turning back. Its a Chao!!!

11-17-2008, 11:58 PM	#50
id3379 §†ęĄ¶‡Ћ-NCP96 Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 727	good job so far dude, watch out for them vampire bats!

11-18-2008, 02:42 AM	#51
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	First picture is of the alternator after installing it for the Nth time. The pulleys line up parallel and no Spacer B was needed on this car. The new intake manifold is bolted to the compressor. The fuel rail comes off with no problems and no gasoline squirting. We tried fit checking the manifold/blower onto the head but encountered interference at this round sensor thing. It turns out that Blitz left too much material when they cast the intake manifold and it was hitting the sensor thing. The blue line shows the aluminum that goes beyond the manifold gasket. Nothing that a good filing can't take care of! This is after filing off the excess aluminum. My younger brother is smarter and braver than I am when it comes to cars. We find that we are hitting the alternator when trying to install the manifold/blower. The new alternator bracket was installed wrong! After moving the new alternator bracket, there is no more interference from that area. The new alternator position is so close to one of the metal air conditioning lines that I am going to wear a hole in it and lose all my freon. I need to put a rubber hose or something on that metal line to protect it from the alternator. When the engine is rev'd, the torque will pitch the engine forward and the alternator will hit the metal air conditioning line. Ok, one last look over before the manifold/blower goes on. The dipstick tube gets reinstalled 180 out. Tada! The manifold/blower is on... almost. We could not get it mounted with the left bottom manifold bolt in-place. It's almost impossible to line up the five holes with the five studs/bolts. We have to figure out how to do this. We tried to screw the last manifold bolt on after the manifold was on the head but it would not go. That plus I dropped a socket into the engine compartment so we had to waste 10 minutes fishing it out. Lastly, I am short one intake manifold nut so tomorrow is a day off from the install while I go to Toyota to buy a nut and maybe another manifold bolt. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

11-18-2008, 08:17 AM	#52
eTiMaGo vroom vroom View User's Garage Drives: lil red 5-door Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bangkok, Thailand Posts: 7,744	wow, I must applaud you for the awesome step-by-step installation updates, I think it will really help those who are considering one but not sure exactly what is involved in the installations. So, major kudos Can't wait to see this lil beast running! __________________ The price of freedom of religion, or of speech, or of the press, is that we must put up with a good deal of rubbish. - Robert Jackson Bye bye 1NZ...

11-18-2008, 09:34 AM	#53
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	Got it. Thanks! We were contemplating sawing off the bolt to make it shorter and other crazy workarounds. Mike, I almost called you last night but it would have been past 11:00 your time so we mounted and unmounted the manifold/blower three times before calling it quits. I am still missing one manifold nut so I still have to visit the dealer. So today I give my brother the evening off to play with his 1-month old baby. Hopefully, my sister-in-law won't be as mad. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood Last edited by LtNoogie; 11-18-2008 at 09:57 AM.

11-18-2008, 12:14 PM	#54
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	From some of the previous posts, I'm dreading the wiring more than the mechanical stuff. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

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