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Old 04-18-2009, 05:10 PM   #55
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Then is the Hydra the same as the MS?
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Old 04-18-2009, 05:16 PM   #56
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IDK...but a lot of people have said that you can use it as either a piggyback or as a full stand alone.
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Old 04-18-2009, 06:32 PM   #57
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The Hydra has full standalone capability (at least their Nemesis 2 does), including timing, peripherals (a/c, power steering, etc), and other functions. Much like the AEM EMS I'm using, or a MoTeC, etc.

MegaSquirt gives control over fuel only - the ECU is still doing most of the work to control the motor.
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Old 04-18-2009, 07:59 PM   #58
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This is what I found on the MS

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp...tem/index.html
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:22 PM   #59
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Mouse is right... Megasquirt can be used as either a standalone or a piggyback. But you may lose the vvti... Unless someone has figured that out.

I used megasquirt as a piggy back on the 1nzfe and its a full standalone on the 4age.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:28 AM   #60
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Got some new info on AFR, I'll repeat the rest of the stuff as well. Looks like my experiences pretty much parallel camelll's.

Air Fuel Ratio:
* 11-12 range at wot in open loop (making up to 8 psi)
* mid 14s-low 15s in closed loop (both on and off boost)
* steady at 16 during DFCO (open loop)

Fuel Controller Wiring: Splice clips (the good kind, not the shit ones from the kit )
Spark Plug: NGK 7 heat range plugs
Pump Gas Quality: BP 93 octane plus lucas oil octane booster

I just got the wideband a/f gauge in over the weekend so I'll continue to keep an eye on it. Similar to what camelll said, I see a brief delay in going to open loop at wot, but I see the same delay when entering dfco, so it may simply be may be the scangauge catching up. My main desire would be to eliminate long-term use of the fuel additive to prevent knocking.
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:55 AM   #61
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KK, have you tried a tankful without the addditive? I believe that Yaris T-sport mentioned that he was able to stop using the octane booster. I don't understand why other than maybe the ECU was able to learn and adjust. Doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:30 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LtNoogie View Post
KK, have you tried a tankful without the addditive? I believe that Yaris T-sport mentioned that he was able to stop using the octane booster. I don't understand why other than maybe the ECU was able to learn and adjust. Doesn't make sense to me.
Yeah, I saw T-sport's comments and tried a tank without additive last week but the knocking returned.

It runs so well with the octane booster I almost don't mind the added expense, but seeing what others have said about the long-term effect on spark plugs does concern me.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:08 AM   #63
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Plus.... you shouldn't have to, in my opinion.
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:00 PM   #64
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Well wouldn't we have to because a few people were guessing the blitz kit was tuned to 100 octane in Japan? And if that is true, it comes out to like 95-96 octane in the US?
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:29 PM   #65
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I was thinking the same thing, but Blitz confirmed that they used a USDM car (here in the USA) to install and test their system. I doubt that car had more than 91 in it when they did their R&D here.

I'm emailing them again today to find out what's up.
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Old 04-21-2009, 02:59 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurokoma-kun View Post
Got some new info on AFR, I'll repeat the rest of the stuff as well. Looks like my experiences pretty much parallel camelll's.

Air Fuel Ratio:
* 11-12 range at wot in open loop (making up to 8 psi)
* mid 14s-low 15s in closed loop (both on and off boost)
* steady at 16 during DFCO (open loop)
What is your guys IGN timing during your WOT (11-12 AFR)? And IGN timing during your MID 14s-15s in closed loop with boost on and off.

Thanks
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:14 AM   #67
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With my limited understanding of engine performance, I thought that when you retard to single digits on timing, you are delaying when the spark occurs to near top dead center. That helps to prevent pre-ignition but also outputs less power than if you had ignited earlier... meaning double digit ignition retardation. Earlier ignition allows for more of the fuel to completely burn.

Someone with more knowledge please chime in.
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:23 AM   #68
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I am going to try larger injectors next. I have to read up on why more fuel prevents pre-ignition.
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:40 AM   #69
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My ignition timing:
at idle ~5
out of boost ~30 (AFR 14s-15s)
under low boost ~15 (AFR 14s-15s)
at wot ~10, rarely + briefly single digits (AFR 11s-12s)

Quote:
Originally Posted by camelll View Post
KK do you have shell gas stations with 93? I have used that multiple tanks without octane booster and no knocking. I cannot get bp 93 as they don't have it here but bp 91 knocks like crazy without octane booster.
Well, BP near me are calling what they have 93 octane though sometimes I suspect we are all getting crap gas! Seems like lately I've read more posts about stalling and poor performance in other parts of the board than ever before. Hell I dunno </conspiracy theory> Annnnyway, have not tried Shell, I'll have to see if I can find it!
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:40 AM   #70
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you could also look into water/meth injection as a way too cool down the compressed air, though I'm not sure where you'd be able to fit the nozzle!
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:44 AM   #71
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AlexNet0 is fabricating a throttle body spacer with a NOS injection port. Perhaps the water/meth can be injected there. That is way low on my list of mods, though.
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Old 04-21-2009, 09:52 AM   #72
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yeah but inejcting it before the compression takes place, I'm not sure how efficient it'll be? I mean, you basically want the liquid mist to absorb heat (thus cooling the air) and turn to steam...
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