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Old 09-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #19
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lol take a torch to the existing hub and shave some down lol
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Old 09-09-2013, 05:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flipper_1938 View Post
Order a -5mm spacer
If only it were that easy :(


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lol its as easy as that huh ^ lol
Well for Her it is haha, you've got all that camber to fit yours :)
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:09 PM   #21
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Well for Her it is haha, you've got all that camber to fit yours :)[/QUOTE]

lol you say bags I say camber lol potato tomato
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Old 09-09-2013, 06:36 PM   #22
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^^ haha much love for the camber.
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #23
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Sounds like camber issues!! You need Camber bolts.

Grave5.jpg
^^^ So if it looks like this, then you have a problem because your messed up your suspension.


Thanx for the helps guys! My rims are 15X6.5 & I do live in VA. (snow) Although I will be switching my rims & tires to my original rim & firestone wheels. Getting stuck in the snow is not fun.
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:20 PM   #24
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Im confused by that post ^^^

That car looks fine to me. The issue too is not camber related, the body on the Yaris hatch is molded slightly different from side to side causing a different looking fitment from passenger to driver side rears
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:37 PM   #25
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If you look back at your car & your tire is slightly sticking out then you have a problem. Ride quality deteriorates as the car is mostly running on one side-wall, but mostly the inside of your tires ends up worn out very quickly, leading to a less-than-legal situation for your tread.

Crazy-Camber-1-625x468.jpg
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:49 PM   #26
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_160317.jpg

130_0803_16_z+body_kit_guide+ings_1_yaris.jpg

This is perfect!
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:53 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mz3oh5 View Post
If you look back at your car & your tire is slightly sticking out then you have a problem. Ride quality deteriorates as the car is mostly running on one side-wall, but mostly the inside of your tires ends up worn out very quickly, leading to a less-than-legal situation for your tread.

Attachment 51794
We adjust our camber on purpose to run that way tho it doesnt mean anything is broken and that isnt her problem.

It wont run on sidewall, that would be crazy, still only the contact patch of the tire will touch the ground even with significant negative camber
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mz3oh5 View Post
If you look back at your car & your tire is slightly sticking out then you have a problem. Ride quality deteriorates as the car is mostly running on one side-wall, but mostly the inside of your tires ends up worn out very quickly, leading to a less-than-legal situation for your tread.

Attachment 51794
People add camber for the looks, possibly some performance increase.

The sticking out we are talking about isn't cbwr related. Dino's car has un-modified rear camber, the top of one wheel physically sticks out from the fender more than the other, that's what I/we were hoping to solve.

It's a DD and we get crazy weather up here so for stability and safety purposes we keep her car at minimum rear camber. My old DD had about -7* camber in the rear and not much toe adjuatment becauae it had a beam axle like the yaris,and was terrifying to drive in the wet
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:25 PM   #29
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Don't confuse the question about one rear wheel sticking out more on one side of the body of the car with "camber" issues.

Yes my Yaris has the same issue from factory ONE rear wheel sticks out more than the other one. Solution maybe spacers like recommended above, but not camber.

Camber... it's nice! (I had it once), but

"eats your tires very quickly"

because the geometry of the Yaris's suspension

D.
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Old 09-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #30
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ive been running -6 degrees in the rear for close to a year now and i barely notice any unusual wear. The 5-6 months i have had the same tires on the rear and you cant even notice a difference in wear from inside of tire to outside maybe my toe is spot on!
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:38 AM   #31
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Can the mounting bushings be shimmed to center the beam under the car?

5mm difference left to right should only require moving the beam 2.5mm to fix.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
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5mm difference left to right should only require moving the beam 2.5mm to fix.
The difference is actually closer to 10mm, and Scott is more than likely bang on when he states 13mm.

I removed my 10mm spacer from the right side a couple of days ago, and my spacing is now close to spot-on with the spacer still in place on the left.
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Old 09-12-2013, 10:08 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Can the mounting bushings be shimmed to center the beam under the car?

5mm difference left to right should only require moving the beam 2.5mm to fix.
The beam pockets are too tight to even make up a couple of mm and as I measured it on my two cars it was 13mm difference.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:25 AM   #34
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I removed my 10mm spacer from the right side a couple of days ago, and my spacing is now close to spot-on with the spacer still in place on the left.

Does the left side rub now too? The right side barely grazes as is...I'd be sad if the left started doing it too.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:43 AM   #35
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Does the left side rub now too? The right side barely grazes as is...I'd be sad if the left started doing it too.
My left side never rubbed with the 10mm spacer in.
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:56 AM   #36
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So I been reading this and thought I would go look at mine. And sure enough it is.

So I got the idea to lift the rear of the car up off the ground. Then I took a rubber mallot and hit as hard as I could the rim that poked out further. Making sure I hit the center of the rim with as much force as possible. Golf swing style. I lowered and measured it again. I hit it too hard. now the other side pokes out too far. Lifted it back up and slightly tapped it.. and it fixed it.. ;)
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