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09-12-2013, 12:23 PM | #37 | |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Kentucky
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Quote:
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09-12-2013, 01:20 PM | #38 |
advocatus diaboli
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch Join Date: Mar 2011
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Duh, I read that too early I guess...why would it start. For me I would be adding a spacer to the driver side probably making it rub like the passenger side. I guess I could even it out and add a lil camber. It's like I HAVE to add camber now if I want to fix it...Toyota made me do it.
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09-12-2013, 01:25 PM | #39 | |
advocatus diaboli
Drives: 07 Yaris hatch Join Date: Mar 2011
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Quote:
I tried this too, except instead of lifting the car(my hands fatigue easily) I just donkey kicked the passenger rear panel and shifted the body. I had my neighbor put his foot in front of the opposite wheel/tire so only the body would move.
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09-12-2013, 03:49 PM | #40 |
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If you did move it over it would only be temporary as you would simply be deforming the bushing. As soon as the car starts moving it will find its way back. This is what the pocket in the body looks like. There is no way you are going to deform it by whacking on the hub. With the two pockets being off center as they are, you would have to do some serious cutting and rewelding to center them.
Axle beam pocket.png
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09-13-2013, 01:00 PM | #41 |
It's Quacktastic!
Drives: '07 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Austin, TX
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But how many miles did you drive in that time?
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09-13-2013, 01:26 PM | #42 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
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about 6k ^^^
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09-13-2013, 07:21 PM | #43 |
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I run -1.5 in the front and have experienced no abnormal tire wear. I use extremely soft sticky tires too (Toyo R888)
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09-14-2013, 12:43 AM | #44 |
Drives: 2010 black yaris Join Date: Oct 2010
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no.. this actually did not work. surprise.. CT is right, even if this did work, the amount of autocross I do, it would shimmy back and forth all the time.
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09-14-2013, 10:45 AM | #45 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2010
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When people are pushing the beam around to center things up....what is actually moving?
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09-14-2013, 01:16 PM | #46 |
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They are deforming the rubber bushings that the beam bolts go through. They have about 1/2" of material around the bolt and are soft, so you can deform them. When you do so you are actually cocking the beam, rather than sliding to one side, so if it stayed like that the car would go dog style down the road.
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05-10-2014, 10:18 AM | #47 |
Drives: white yaris hatchback. Join Date: May 2011
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bumping this back up:
Has anyone ever attempted to modify the rear beam to pull the wheels in more? like cutting re-welding? trying to think of a way to get perfect fitment. or is there a beam from earlier yaris or other model that is narrower and would bolt in?
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05-10-2014, 10:24 AM | #48 | |
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Cutting and re-welding would actually be a reasonable approach, although the simpler solution is to use hub spacers. Using a mismatched set of one 10 mm and one 13 mm Penguin Garage spacer brings them almost perfectly equal. To make them dead on you could purchase a set of 10's or 13's and grind one down to where both sides are identical.
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05-10-2014, 10:37 AM | #49 | |
Drives: 04.:R32, 87 Scirocco, 07 yaris Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Yea we have considered spacers. But we are looking to maybe bring the wheels in more than just even them out. They already poke out some on each side and hoping to look for options to bring them in rather than just crazy camber.. |
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05-10-2014, 10:48 AM | #50 |
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OK. In that case the cut/weld is the way to go. You have about 1/2" to play with before you have to remount the shock mount.
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05-10-2014, 02:28 PM | #51 |
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05-10-2014, 02:46 PM | #52 |
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!/2" per side. You could get almost 1.5" per side if you cut right up to the shock mount.
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05-10-2014, 05:36 PM | #53 |
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I am now intrigued. Will have to look into this more
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05-10-2014, 06:01 PM | #54 |
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Same problem up front as discussed a long time ago in another thread somewhere.
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