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Old 10-21-2010, 07:52 PM   #1
Betrivent
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LED Install Problem (Tails)

So I have no idea how I managed to screw this up, but somehow, somethign went wrong.

I unplugged all the stock bulbs, replaced them all with LEDs (reverse, markers, and brake). Firstly, the markers flash way too quickly (Figure that out, resistance problem). Secondly, and the big one, is that for some reason, whenever I depress the brake with the LEDs in, the lights would not get brighter, so indicate a stop (this is with headlights on, so driving lights). But, if I have no lights on, just DRLs (so, daytime operation) and step on the brake, the LED brake lights would apply, but then my dash would dim and indicate lights were on. What the fack?!

Anybody have any idea what just happened?
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:02 PM   #2
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need to get the install diagram and the color codes..i think you also need to replace a plastic socket on the wirings..
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:04 PM   #3
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what kind are the ones you put for your tails? there are regular bulbs (cheapos) and ones with zener diodes that will give you double intensity. You are overloading the system when your dash dims. For your flashers you need a load balancer circuit that will prevent the fast flashing. CTScott would be the person to tell you which one is for the Yaris
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:39 PM   #4
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These LEds have diodes that intensify when a different current is run through it, I have tested them with a battery. The problem is now, I have my bulbs ALL back to stock. But, my rear right still will not come out when I depress the brakes. Like, normal driving light is okay, they are on, but when I brake the light does not brighten
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Old 10-21-2010, 08:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus View Post
need to get the install diagram and the color codes..i think you also need to replace a plastic socket on the wirings..
Do you think this would explain the brakes? Because I know the signals require a relay.

Merci beaucoup mon amis :P
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Old 10-21-2010, 09:25 PM   #6
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The 7443 bulbs have 4 contacts. Make sure you didn't bend one of the socket contacts when you were switching back and forth.

The turn signals need the replacement flasher module or a load resistor because the standard flasher relies on the resistance of the bulb filament for its timing circuit.

The Yaris doesn't have dead bulb detection, so load resistors are not necessary for anything except the turns.

The stop/tail bulb has two filaments. If your replacement LEDs were not true 7443 bulb replacements, then they may have been jumping the stop light circuit over to the tail light circuit and hence causing the headlight indicator to illuminate (and the cluster to dim) when you stepped on the brake pedal.
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Old 10-21-2010, 10:18 PM   #7
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led's are one way...take the bulb out, turn it 180* and put it back in...see if it works.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:04 AM   #8
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The 7443 bulbs have 4 contacts. Make sure you didn't bend one of the socket contacts when you were switching back and forth.

I will check tomorrow

The turn signals need the replacement flasher module or a load resistor because the standard flasher relies on the resistance of the bulb filament for its timing circuit.

Do you know how much resistance?

The Yaris doesn't have dead bulb detection, so load resistors are not necessary for anything except the turns.

The stop/tail bulb has two filaments. If your replacement LEDs were not true 7443 bulb replacements, then they may have been jumping the stop light circuit over to the tail light circuit and hence causing the headlight indicator to illuminate (and the cluster to dim) when you stepped on the brake pedal.

I am sure these have two filaments, since powering them through two separate filaments yields two different levels of light

led's are one way...take the bulb out, turn it 180* and put it back in...see if it works.

I will try that tomorrow, I had considered it, but having plugged and unplugged so many times to test I thought it highly unlikely I didn't get it right at some point

Thanks guys, I will try it again tomorrow! (later today!)
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Old 10-22-2010, 07:46 AM   #9
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For the resistance question, I highly suggest buying a flasher that is made for driving LED lights instead of using a resistor. The resistor has to be a very low resistance value (~1 ohm) and extremely high wattage capability (20-50 Watts), which really defeats the purpose of the LEDs.
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:34 AM   #10
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Alright, in that case I will look into that relay that I saw ray has
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:06 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcus View Post
need to get the install diagram and the color codes..i think you also need to replace a plastic socket on the wirings..
Ct do you know anything about this? So is there a specific orientation I have to plug in the bulbs to work? And is the socket supposed to be different as well, I can't discern a difference in the filaments between the LEDs and the originals
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:09 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betrivent View Post
Ct do you know anything about this? So is there a specific orientation I have to plug in the bulbs to work? And is the socket supposed to be different as well, I can't discern a difference in the filaments between the LEDs and the originals
That's some bum info. You don't need to change sockets or rewire to install LED replacement bulbs.

The comment above about flipping them because of polarity may be true, if the replacement bulbs don't contain rectifiers.
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Old 10-22-2010, 10:51 AM   #13
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I will try them with different orientations today, thanks a lot! Will probably report back to see what I find. Thanks a lot, much appreciated
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:30 PM   #14
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Alright, so. I tried the LEDs in the brake lights again, with somewhat interesting results. They don't work properly still, but when applying brakes the first time with all driving lights on, I saw what looked like a dead wafer on the bulb flicker. Both bulbs have a dead wafer, nto in the same place though. Anyway, it only happened the once. After that, the same problem as yesterday persisted, the dash lights would come on, also with the front park lights. I'm going to try switching some polarity around and see what that does.
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Old 10-22-2010, 01:45 PM   #15
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Yet another discovery yields that for some reason, my front LEFT park light is flickering. Though with the rear lights, I have switched the bulbs form side to side, it is always the same bulb not dimming to normal "driving" levels, and always the same one that works, regardless what sides. I have also tested the normal bulbs with the bulb that seemingly works, with the same results.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:13 PM   #16
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Okay, so even MORE messed up now. My stock bulbs do not work, at all. They turn on when I turn the driving lights on, BUT, now for some reason, my FRONT RIGHT park light bulb is reverse with the side marker on the front headlight housing, shown in the picture.

Oh god this is so messed up. So now my car is technically undriveable because I have no brake lights. I really hope it's just a relay being fried, because all fuses look fine.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Betrivent View Post
Okay, so even MORE messed up now. My stock bulbs do not work, at all. They turn on when I turn the driving lights on, BUT, now for some reason, my FRONT RIGHT park light bulb is reverse with the side marker on the front headlight housing, shown in the picture.

Oh god this is so messed up. So now my car is technically undriveable because I have no brake lights. I really hope it's just a relay being fried, because all fuses look fine.
Are you sure you are putting the correct bulbs in the correct sockets? Swapping single and double filament bulbs will cause issues. Also, did you check the rear brake light sockets to make sure that the contacts aren't bent?
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Are you sure you are putting the correct bulbs in the correct sockets? Swapping single and double filament bulbs will cause issues. Also, did you check the rear brake light sockets to make sure that the contacts aren't bent?
If we're dealing with bulb type here, I've placed the stock ones back in, and the problem persists

The sockets are fine, since there is normal operation in either one when the bulbs are used in certain configurations.

Single being these:

http://www.marinco.com/files/img_mai...dge%20base.jpg

And Dual being these:

http://www.energyspeed.com/media/5/a...893713b3_m.jpg

(with two filaments per side)

Correct? In which case I have dual filament bulbs, but notwithstanding the new bulbs work or not, I can't even return my car to the state it was before I somehow messed this up. Based on my predicament, with the front park getting mixed up with the side marker, and my brake lights not applying, have you got a theory? Thank you SO much CT.

EDIT: THis is what I feel right now: http://www.nooooooooooooooo.com/

EDIT2: I've checked every fuse under the panel near the pedals, nothing is out there, I'm goign to check the fuses in the engine bay, likely nothing out there as well. Could a dead or fried relay be causing this?
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