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08-27-2010, 05:06 AM | #1 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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Droning noise, bearing suspected.
Hi All.
I have a 2001 yaris LB. Its recently developed a low pitch droning noise. happens at 20mph+ and is constant in pitch and doesnt change if I drop out of gear or depress the clutch. I am reasonably sure its a front wheel bearing as the car has also started to clunk when moving on full lock. Is swapping out the front bearing a DIY job (I have reasonable skills) or a job that will need a professional? |
08-27-2010, 09:47 PM | #2 |
Drives: peArL yAvItZ!! Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: *tIny dOts iN AsiA*
Posts: 156
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Changing out the wheel bearing don't really need to have the professional skill or whatsoever. But we'll need to have the equipment, called Hydraulic pump/jack to press out the old bearing out & then pump in the new one.
If you love DIY, you can always remove the knuckle arm yourself & bring along your new bearing for workshop who have the pump to change the bearing out for you.
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1NZ-FE Yaris with JDM RS front & rear bumper | JDM Vitz RS taillamp | JDM Vitz window visors | JDM Vitz Netz logos | JDM leather steering wheel & shift knob | 4k HID | K&N panel filter | Fujitsubo Wagolis exhaust | NST 10% crank pully | KYB Excel-G shocks | NF210 Springs | Cusco 4 points lower arm bar & Type OS top struct bar | RZCrew sub-frame collars | Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway bar & rear lower & center braces | PG Rear 13mm hub spacers | Exzess 2-pot calipers with 282mm rotors | Runstop Rear Disc | SSR Semi-Forge Type F 15" rims | Michelin Pilot Sport 3 195/55/15 tyres |
08-28-2010, 04:23 AM | #3 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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Thanks evo, sounds like a plan to me. I am going to remove the wheels later today and have a look around. My other half reminded me today that a few weeks ago I drove over a big twig (about 12 inches) that I had to pull out from the underneath of the car because it got wedged, so I am going to do an inspection for debris.
With a rumbling bearing, I would expect it to get louder over time/miles. Do you think it should sound louder after 200 miles or so? |
08-28-2010, 11:10 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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It's a 2001?
What's the mileage?
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08-28-2010, 11:32 AM | #5 |
Drives: peArL yAvItZ!! Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: *tIny dOts iN AsiA*
Posts: 156
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No problem beer. As time gone by, the rumbling bearing noise will get it louder & louder till at almost all speed range.
For my case, my 06 yaris wheel bearing start to give out sound only at certain speed (around 30 mph constant), anything slowler or faster it very difficult to hear it anymore. But still, i change it out the old bearing to stop the disturbing sound at 30mph. P.S. If you gonna DIY, just to make sure that you carefully remove the ABS sensor(if your ride have it) from the knuckle arm and to clean it with rag to remove any dirty stuffs. If not, you'll have the risk of having ABS check light if is dirty & not install correctly.
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1NZ-FE Yaris with JDM RS front & rear bumper | JDM Vitz RS taillamp | JDM Vitz window visors | JDM Vitz Netz logos | JDM leather steering wheel & shift knob | 4k HID | K&N panel filter | Fujitsubo Wagolis exhaust | NST 10% crank pully | KYB Excel-G shocks | NF210 Springs | Cusco 4 points lower arm bar & Type OS top struct bar | RZCrew sub-frame collars | Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway bar & rear lower & center braces | PG Rear 13mm hub spacers | Exzess 2-pot calipers with 282mm rotors | Runstop Rear Disc | SSR Semi-Forge Type F 15" rims | Michelin Pilot Sport 3 195/55/15 tyres |
08-28-2010, 09:17 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2008 yaris, stripped, red Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 977
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check the alignment and chck tires for cupping. that's the most likely with under 100k miles unless you seriously take corners like a bugatti or somethin.
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08-30-2010, 08:44 AM | #7 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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Severous:
Sorry, not familliar with the term 'cupping'. Its not commonly used in the UK, could you explain please? the car has done 78,000 miles. I have also noticed that the noise is stronger on a right hand turn and almost goes away completely on a left hand turn. As suggested I'll get my alignment checked. A quick update. I removed the wheel yesterday, and I couldnt see any obvious signs of bearing wear. there is no lubricant leak or any excessive movement when shaking the wheel side-to-side. I noticed something odd though, the brake disc seems to be only secured in place by the wheel. Most brakes I have worked on have a screw to hold them in place and there are holes for it on the disc, but not on the hub. I have attached a pic of it below. Although the disc has a hole for a screw, there is no threaded hole in the hub to take it. Is this normal? http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...eelresized.jpg |
08-30-2010, 08:57 AM | #8 |
Drives: 06 Polar White 5dr, 13 Soul 4u Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Georgetown, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,740
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^
There are no actual fasteners for our discs. They are free floating on the hub and held in place with wheel lugs only. Those holes are for threading in a M12 (I think) bolt to free it from the hub if rust happens to have seized it on there. To remove the disc, you only need to remove the caliper assembly. The disc is then free to pull straight out.
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09-01-2010, 11:03 AM | #9 |
Drives: '08 Yaris Sedan, Aero Package Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,720
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If it clunks while turning you may have a CV join going away.
And as you may be aware, CV joints are full of bearing so this may account for your droning sound as well. Check the CV boots for damage. This would be an indicator of trouble inside due to contamination and loss of lubrication. Good Luck!
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TRD Upgrades: 18" Wheels wrapped in 215/35/18 PZero's, Sportivo Shocks/Struts, Lowering Springs, Swaybar, Axle-Back Exhaust, Oil Cap, Rad Cap, Signage. Aftermarket Goodies: Piggies SS, K&N Drop-In, Blitz S/C, DC Header, NST Pulley) Toyota Options/Accessories: Sport Pedal Covers, Sport Shift Knob, Ipod Interface, Summer Mats, Winter Mats, Cruise Control, Auto-Dim Mirror, Echo steelies with winter boots. |
09-02-2010, 09:31 AM | #10 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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Ok, I know I should get this to a mechanic for a full diagnosis, but I cant do that until after the weekend.
A few more symptoms to describe: Along with the droning there is a slight vibration that can be felt through the pedals and on the front footwell floors. Not a strong one, but quite a high frequency. The driveshaft has some play on the lateral plane, (see below), but only about 2mm. I havent heard clunk in the last week, (200 miles), and no damage to the CV boots. |
09-02-2010, 11:16 PM | #11 |
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Drives: 1999 echo PRC rally car Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Joyner, Brisbane
Posts: 321
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How worn down are your front and rear tyres? Drones and vibrations can often be caused by worn tyres.
I replaced the bearings on mine at 120 000kms. There was no play in them but when turning slow corners on full lock, I would get a clicking sound. I replaced them and the noise was gone. |
09-04-2010, 05:04 AM | #12 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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When Jacked up, each wheel except the front left, (passenger side on a RHD car), turns smooth and relatively quiet. The suspect bearing wheel is not silent, and the drone can be heard. As its off the floor, I guess it cant be the tires.
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09-17-2010, 09:06 AM | #13 |
Drives: Yaris 1.3 SR Join Date: May 2010
Location: Somerset
Posts: 29
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Quick update.
Car was in the mechanics on Monday this week just before a trip away, it was the bearing as suspected. Now replaced and back to normal. :-) |
12-13-2010, 10:18 PM | #14 |
Drives: '08 HB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allyn
Posts: 71
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My right front wheel bearing is toast......took a look at it tonight - wobbly.
I have a hand held temperature checker - it was 214 degrees when I got home (before I tore it down to figure out what was causing the heat-up problem. Luckily, I bought the 75k mi extended warranty ($900!) back in 2008 and I have 70,916 on the Yaris.....calling the 10800 # in the morning! Dave |
03-10-2016, 05:14 PM | #15 |
toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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anyone know if one can just replace the whole front hub assembly so you dont have to pry out the bearing?
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If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit!!!!!! "Horsepower is how fast you hit the object. Torque is how far you move that object.." |
03-10-2016, 06:28 PM | #16 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Back from the dead...
I believe that is how most are done now a days. When I searched in the past out of curiosity for Yaris wheel bearings they are mostly sold as the hub assembly. You'll still want an air chisel and a ton of PB Blaster to help you get the hub off the car. At least I did for the rear when I installed my spacers, not too sure if the fronts are similar or not
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03-11-2016, 12:31 AM | #17 |
1NZ-6spd
Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,967
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the front is simple the tie rod end, lower ball joint and strut holding it on after the axle is out.
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