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Old 02-17-2013, 06:40 PM   #1
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Dynamat and self-adhesive

I am trying to get the car to have less road noise, not that it bothers me just wanted to spend some money. Also, I plan on getting a Touring muffler in the next few months. I have a 3 door hatchback.
My questions, I plan on getting 36 square feet on extreme dynamat. I believe that will be enough for my purposes. I want to get the two doors, spare tire and surrounding areas and the hatch. I do not plan on removing any carpet. I want to know would self-adhesive help to secure it to the metal. Also, should I tape the edges of Dynamat to insure it does not run the glue like material I have read some people complain of?
The other concern are the wheel wells, I see the factory already undercoated some areas. I would like to know would spraying the plastic front wells with rubberized asphalt help. Also just spraying more rubberized asphalt on the existing coating help even more.
Thank for your responses.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:22 PM   #2
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There are a couple of good threads on soundproofing. I recently used 100 sq ft of fatmat to do Crashy2. I did the entire floor, as far up as I could go under the dash without pulling the airbox, the sides up to the headliner, the doors and hatch, and the wheel wells (with two layers). I am actually amazed as to how little it helped. I realized afterward that the greatest noise entry is actually from the firewall, so I would probably have been better off pulling the entire dash and doing a couple of layers up to the windshield.
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:35 AM   #3
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You would need 3 or 4 layers of Dynamat or similar (MAT) to block the noise, these products are used in the car audio industry to control reverberations from strong subwoofers, and they are not very efficient to block noise.

The best treatment to block road noise is using MLV, Mass Loaded Vinyl,
this is as heavy as lead (1sq ft = 1 lb) + some layers of CCFoam (close cell foam) and 30% of MAT

You can't just do one section/area the noise will go around everywhere.

Rubberized asphalt is not as efficient, but will kill some of the noise when is wet from the splash of the water.

Deadening a car is not cheap, and it's very hard to accomplish to get good results, though you can still use a little of MAT (Dynamat or others) to prevent reverberation reduce some of the noise.

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Old 02-18-2013, 09:25 AM   #4
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I'd go with derickveliz2's recommendations. I spent maybe 20 minutes with him in his car, and it is amazingly quiet.Check out his thread. Pretty sure it mentions everything he did.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:51 PM   #5
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I have read about 10 to something pages on that thread, I guess I should read all 131 pages of it for a proper understanding. Thanks for the info.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot View Post
I have read about 10 to something pages on that thread, I guess I should read all 131 pages of it for a proper understanding. Thanks for the info.
Derick summed it up in his post #3 above. I started wading through his thread after installing the 100 sq ft, and realized that the MLV would probably have done me better than the fatmat did. I carpeted the spare tire well area with some heavy automotive carpet, and that plus the fatmat made a huge difference with the rear road noise, but the engine and exhaust manifold noise are still the real culprits.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:47 PM   #7
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Post # 2245 in my Build...

Engine Noise?...



This video is to show you how fast is my Yaris... LOL

NO, the idea is to show how much engine noise gets into the cabin (or how much engine noise is blocked into the cabin) in hard acceleration:




D.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:30 PM   #8
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I have read about 10 to something pages on that thread, I guess I should read all 131 pages of it for a proper understanding. Thanks for the info.
i'd just suggest skimming it quickly, but he does a tremendous job documenting everything, and amazingly thorough job of sound proofing everything possible.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Derick summed it up in his post #3 above. I started wading through his thread after installing the 100 sq ft, and realized that the MLV would probably have done me better than the fatmat did. I carpeted the spare tire well area with some heavy automotive carpet, and that plus the fatmat made a huge difference with the rear road noise, but the engine and exhaust manifold noise are still the real culprits.
It's really a combination, you need the MAT to control reverberations, but the MAT alone will not block the noise, the FOAM to absorb high frequencies and rattles. The MLV to block the noise, a complete layer of MLV is need it to really block noise.


The best treatment I did for engine noise was the area where the windshield drains, under the wipers and the most important is to make a chamber to the intake air going inside the cabin.

After this simple mod engine/wind noise was reduced considerable. Also put layers of MLV behind the wiper's motor, this helps when wipers are in use.

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Old 03-03-2013, 08:23 PM   #10
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A quick update, I installed Dynamat on the doors, spare tire area and the hatch. The decibel level has gone down about 2 decibels overall. These readings are on the same roads, speed and time of day. I am very happy with the work so far.
Quick questions, I have 16 square feet left and thinking of doing the floor panels, at least the front floor panels. Also thinking about the hood, under it anyway. Worried about temperatures and risk of fire if ever the mat falls on the engine. I still want to spray the wheel wells with undercoating. Okay I will update again after more work. Thanks guys.
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:17 PM   #11
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Good, that's awesome, now with 16 sf you could do the front wheel wells, fire-wall and some of the floor.

Don't go to the hood, heat is an issue there.

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Old 03-04-2013, 12:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derickveliz2 View Post
Post # 2245 in my Build...

Engine Noise?...



This video is to show you how fast is my Yaris... LOL

NO, the idea is to show how much engine noise gets into the cabin (or how much engine noise is blocked into the cabin) in hard acceleration:




D.
Although tough to tell over an internet video, it really seems like your Yaris is VERY quiet... coming from someone with poly motor mounts that recently finished a long roadtrip, it must be awesome :)
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #13
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Update. I finished the floors and fenders which yielded another one decibel. So to recap, the doors, hatch and spare tire area yielded 2 decibels using 20 square feet of dynamat. Another 16 square feet with the floors, taking out the seats and front fender and front tire well yielded another decibel. The fire wall nor the back fenders were not done. I am happy with the results after I get the Tanable medalion touring muffler I may give one more update.
Is it worth 142 dollars and about 15 hours, probably not. But, I wanted to do it and am happy with it.
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