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Old 06-05-2009, 01:43 AM   #1
ztrack157
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My Windshield Wipers died

I don't know what the heck is wrong. Either a Fuse (which I don't know which one or where it exactly is), The switch, or the motor. I can still use the switch for the rear wiper and the washer fluid front and back. Just the motor doesn't work. But how do I tell if it is bad or not? Or what my culprit is?
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:46 AM   #2
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fuse box has map on lid, but sounds like motor, if was fuse nothing would work i think....
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:49 AM   #3
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eh that fuse map didn't help. I'm betting on the motor. Either way its $100 bucks.
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:55 AM   #4
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lol i had to find tonys correct fuse when he blew his interior lights.. lol and theres spares in the box... but yea, prolly motor... sux its so expensive tho
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Old 06-05-2009, 01:55 AM   #5
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I would say check the fuse box first. Go from small problem to big.
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:05 AM   #6
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I checked all the fuses and nothing
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Old 06-05-2009, 02:42 AM   #7
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I checked all the fuses and nothing
Hmmm....well. If you're still brave. Get a voltage tester, take off the front panel covering the wiper motor, turn the key, flip the wiper switch and see if a current is running. If it is, them motor is dead. If it isn't, then there is break in the current and figure out from there (maybe something wrong at the wiper switch end?).

The evil method would be to rent a Yaris, take it to your garage, switch the parts, and return the car. But you didn't hear that from me.

Added note: sorry for the long run-around. Its better to rule out step by step. Hate for you to run and buy a new motor when all you needed was a wiper switch or some other major part.

Last edited by texkid; 06-05-2009 at 02:48 AM. Reason: Adding a side note.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:38 AM   #8
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I would think the switch is more likely the culprit than the motor. If the motor/gearbox failed mechanically it would keep taking out the fuse. The front wiper, rear wiper, and washers are on separate fuses (15A WSH {front and rear washers}, 25A WIP {front wiper}, 15A RR WIP {rear wiper}).

If the 25A WIP fuse is not blown, I would try bypassing the front wiper switch.

To do so, on the stalk connector, jump the +B to +1 wires. Black (pin 2) to Blue (pin 3) using a small stiff piece of wire.

Wiper Conn Detail.jpg
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:52 AM   #9
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If you still have some warranty let the dealer deal with it.
Could also be a malfunctioning activation switch on the steering column ,you might want to find out before you blow money on the motor only to find out that it still doesnt work.Like texkid said
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Old 06-05-2009, 12:51 PM   #10
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yaris spec?

I can look up in workshop data for the fuses diagram and send it to you, so you can change the exact one you need to change.

My interior lights didn't work, I tested all fuses and they all seemed ok. I looked it up in the program, found out wich one was the one for the interior, replaced it, and probem fixed :P there are a lot of fuse boxes and sometimes two fuses for each thing.
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:29 PM   #11
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please do so toyo. because its like a needle in a hay stack unless your CTscott. And everything he said was greek to me.
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:59 PM   #12
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I have a wire partially exposed going into the wiper motor. It is the yellow one on the connector. Theres some insulation missing but it is not all the way thorugh nor did it damage the copper wire.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:24 PM   #13
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Ok just tested the pins on the connector to the motor. I get juice from them I even went through the stage on intensity to make sure there was a variation as well. This means the motor is shot. Correct?
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:34 PM   #14
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Are you out of warr. already??
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:35 PM   #15
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The black wire will have 12 volts on it even when the wiper is off. Blue will read 12 volts when the switch is on low. Yellow will read 12 volts when the switch is on high. The white changes from ground to 12 volts when the wiper moves part of the way.

(Hopefully no Greek this time...)
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:43 PM   #16
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CT what you described above is what I was getting
This would mean the motor is out correct.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
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CT what you described above is what I was getting
This would mean the motor is out correct.
I would say that is correct.

Just make sure that the white with a black stripe wire grounded well. If it is then I would definitely say that something has opened within the motor assembly. If it is not a solid ground, then it could be the issue, as it completes the circuit to allow the motor to run.
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:09 PM   #18
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I ordered a new motor for cheap so we will find out in a week. If it doesn't work then I will need help with the grounding issue. But the tester shows green all the time on the ground so I'm good to go hopefully.
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