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Old 08-13-2009, 10:43 PM   #55
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I'm looking forward to receiving our shipment of DC Sports headers next week so that I can inspect them for myself.

They look excellent in pics and I'm sure our customers will be happy with their purchases.

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Old 08-14-2009, 08:50 AM   #56
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Has anybody been on a dyno after doing this modification to see what kinds of actual gains there are, if any?
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:40 AM   #57
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Sticky above^^^
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:04 PM   #58
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HahahHahAAAAAAA!!!

I will install over the weekend. Now I'm only missing a few pieces of the N/A puzzle. Thanks for the header Garm. Great deal!!!

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Old 08-14-2009, 06:26 PM   #59
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yeah, shake it in the ayah, baby!! LOL
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:36 PM   #60
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Finally got off my butt and placed my order with Garm for the DC. Looking forward to getting it. Happy birthday to me! Happy birthday to me!
Galavoxx - please post up how the install went and any tips/tricks. I would appreciate it! By the way, that header looks sharp!
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:46 PM   #61
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I'm grippin' it too. Look at that white knuckle! LOL

I'll definitely let you guys know how it goes. I'm sure it'll be a piece of cake. I have all the tools needed, even a decent jack.
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Old 08-14-2009, 07:02 PM   #62
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Ha....dood be all kindsa "white-knuckled." It does look good...I am curious to hear your impression.
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:08 PM   #63
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I installed mine a few days ago, and IMO it was a pain in the ass.

For some reason I had an absolute struggle to remove the second to right manifold bolt, the rest were easy enough though.

Feels a lot smoother to redline and my exhaust is now a bit throatier. (Custom 2 1/4" cat back to a Magnaflow Performance Muffler) Is nice.
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:21 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gideon View Post
I installed mine a few days ago, and IMO it was a pain in the ass.

For some reason I had an absolute struggle to remove the second to right manifold bolt, the rest were easy enough though.

Feels a lot smoother to redline and my exhaust is now a bit throatier. (Custom 2 1/4" cat back to a Magnaflow Performance Muffler) Is nice.
Well look at that! You're right here in my town! I wonder if I've seen your car before....
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:28 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbicidal View Post
Well look at that! You're right here in my town! I wonder if I've seen your car before....
Oh snap, so I am!

I'm over behind the Galleria off of Gibson.

I DID see a Yaris sedan of similar color and badassery making a right turn on Woodcreek Oaks Blvd. from Blue Oaks Blvd. once, maybe that was you?
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Old 08-14-2009, 10:59 PM   #66
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you should come to the meet w/ Gideon, Herbicidal! ;) LOL

man...more and more people are getting this header! damn....

Garm's new HIDs < Garm's DC header.... =_=
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Old 08-15-2009, 10:50 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gideon View Post
Oh snap, so I am!

I'm over behind the Galleria off of Gibson.

I DID see a Yaris sedan of similar color and badassery making a right turn on Woodcreek Oaks Blvd. from Blue Oaks Blvd. once, maybe that was you?
Sorry folks for going OT on this thread, but Gideon you're right! That is my neighborhood! Too funny! We can exchange PM's if you like instead of here.

Kioshi - what meet? I guess I missed it. A PM with the info would be good. Thanks!

Back on topic, can't wait to get my header!
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:31 AM   #68
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So I installed my DC Header on Saturday. It took me about an hour. I just jacked up the front of the car and placed it on jack stands and then went to work. I'm not going to go over how to install as others have already done this. Some things I thought about or should have though about during install (at length):

First of all, this header does not come with a doughnut (or a coffee) or a manifold gasket. I know, that sucks. However, I have 35k miles on my car and both the doughnut and the manifold gasket looked good. More on this later.

Remove your spark plug/plastic engine cover before trying to weasel the old header out. The plastic cover scratches super easy and I'm sort of a neat freak so I'm sort of pissed that I scratched mine, big scratch. The removal of the stock header was easy enough. Breaking the nuts and bolts loose was a little bit of an ass pain but they all came off a little effort. I would recommend you wear leather gloves for the task. Anyone whose ever had a wrench or a socket slip off and had a knuckle buster or has cut the Sh** out of themselves knows how valuable these gloves can be.

Not being able to see behind the motor while standing in front of the car was not a huge problem but it does require you use your "feelers" a lot more than your eyeballs. For me, most of the bolts were best broken loose standing in front of the car while they were best installed from underneath the car. This may not be true for you. The hardest bolt to remove and install was definitely the far left if you are sitting in the car facing forward. You really have to be a contortionist to get in there. That one probably took me ten minutes to remove, maybe more. You really need to be careful your socket or wrench has a good grip on the nut or bolt head. Stripping any one of these would absolutely suck.

Not to sound like a mom but another thing that sucks, getting rust in your eyes. Don't put your face under rusted bolts when removing them. Happened in the past, won't happen again.

Installation of the new header was easy enough. I saved my doughnut, it was not crushed, deformed, or flaking. It looked good. Only issue is that it was stuck on the old header. I took a small flat head screwdriver and worked around the base of the doughnut, separating it little by little from the old header and working to a larger screwdriver, taking care not to damage the thing. Once loose enough I was able remove by twisting the doughnut back and forth. Try twisting before screwdrivers as yours might just come off. If you don't know what it's supposed to look like just buy a new one at your local muffler shop, should be under $10.

The manifold gasket was easier. After the old header is off it will fall behind the engine or you can reach back and take it off it's from where it's perched on the head.

Special Advertising section:

Now my dirty little secret and lifesaver for many vintage motor projects. It's called Ultra Copper and is made by Permatex!! It comes in a spray can. I'm sure some of you know about this stuff, if you don't and you work on old cars or any cars or motorcycles, you should always have a can. It is aMAzing!! Somebody turned me onto it when I had a vintage motorcycle that no longer had parts being produced and I had no money to get them custom made. At that time I was using it for a compression ring head gasket. Since then I have used it for anything from valve cover gaskets, motorcycle clutch cover gaskets, any paper gasket, cork gasket, or concrete gasket, anything on a motor that will touch gas, oil, or heat or all combined. I have never had a gasket fail when this stuff was applied. No joke. So I busted it out for the already used manifold gasket and gave it a few coats before re-installing. This stuff is sticky so it also helps to hold the gasket in place while you put your part on top of it and bolt it up. Also make sure to clean the old gasket of any rust or carbon. I don't see a need to use this stuff on the doughnut but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt. Basically this stuff is a sticky copper infused spray gasket that is supposed to fill imperfections between the gasket and mating surface. I'm not trying to explain the science behind it, I just know it has always worked for me. If you are going to re-use a gasket or even when using a new one, apply this stuff for best results.

The only issue I found with the install apart from the font left bolt being a pain was that my torque wrench was too big to fit into the tight space of the engine bay. I torqued the two collector bolts with the springs to the proper 32 ft lbs but two manifold bolts and three nuts to 20lbs, those had to be done with faith. Maybe someone else can comment on what torque wrench they used, if any. I'm assuming the factory torquing is done while the motor is out of the car so they give you these numbers assuming you can reach the damn things. Or maybe there is a baby torque wrench that I need to add to my tool collection.

After install I noticed that the A/F sensor plug wire was a little tighter than I might like. Nothing to be done. This is probably due to the bung being located lower on the header than the stock bung location.

I tried to drive the car as much as possible this weekend but was pretty busy. Based on about an hour of driving, maybe a little more, I have to agree with others that I have definitely lost some low end torque. The car does not want to climb hills below 3000 rpms in second gear, which I used to be able to do. I'm in San Francisco so this matters. There are many hills.

The car feels smoother to redline but I really can't tell if it's gained any peak horsepower, maybe a few, maaaybe, but it's really really hard to tell without a dyno. Also pure speculation without a dyno: I think what has happened is a few more hp have become available in the mid range and connected that area of the power band to the upper end of the power band. Horsepower feels like it comes in earlier around 3800 rpms and then continues to rev and grow very smoothly up to peak hp at close to redline. What I used to think was the VVTi kicking in (and maybe it was), a surge of power between like 4700 and 6500 rpms, that is gone. Now the motor just revs straight through to redline with no surging. This is especially noticeable getting on the highway.

In the end I don't know if this is a worthwhile upgrade until Garm's intake manifold comes out (assuming it happens and assuming the intake makes power). The fit and finish of the DC header is great but even with larger exhaust piping from the cat back to a Nitto Muffler, a WeaponR short ram, and the light crank pulley, the header doesn't give a huge amount of bang for your buck. I think the intake side is choking it. If you simply must have a header I would hit up one of the cheaper options. I'm glad I bought this header because I wanted a header and like a quality product and this is definitely both. I wasn't expecting huge gains so I'm not disappointed. I think I will miss that little bit of low end torque though.

So far no exhaust leaks.

I do have one question as I'm not very savvy on the ECU side. Will the ECU make any adjustments for the addition of more flow on the backside? It seems like the car got more power the more I drove it. That could have also been differences in intake temperatures or something though.
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Old 08-17-2009, 11:27 AM   #69
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Galavoxx - GREAT write up! And thanks too for the tips and tricks. I'm a little bummed to hear that you lost some low end torque. I was hoping to gain some in that area. I too am curious about resetting the ECU and whether it should be done or not for a header?
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:05 PM   #70
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I may be thinking wrong but any time you perform a mod that is supposed to increase power you are supposed to disconnect the battery to reset the ECU? Like I said I'm not 100% sure about that
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:13 PM   #71
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Very nice review Galavoxx!

Shameless plug coming next...
perhaps you should try an Underdrive Crank Pulley to help you regain some of that low end torque. Should be very helpful for hill climbing!

Good luck and have fun with all your projects!
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:24 PM   #72
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^ Shameless! -- good suggestion too!
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