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Old 02-28-2014, 09:34 PM   #19
Exiwolfman
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyzticZ3r0 View Post
^ I believe this topic has been beaten quite a bit. Everyone has their preference. Let others run their car how they want to be - experience eventually leads to wisdom =].
could not say it any better
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Old 02-28-2014, 11:45 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Exiwolfman View Post
GTI VW....no need to say more
Yeah...too bad there isn't an acronym from those 5 letters that conveys the same message Fix It Again Tony does for old Fiats .

Quote:
not have to deal with winter and use a torch on every bolt in order to remove it..lol
Wow. I spent one winter season with snow and ice in the mountains, but I locked my keys in my car a day or so after my arrival. No AAA within 50 miles so I was SOL. No access to my car until my girlfriend had enough time to drive up with another set of keys (months later...and it was warmer by then). I just walked and took the free shuttle wherever I needed to go. We left the area a couple of times over the season, but got rides with others and contributed gas money. Besides that winter, vehicles I've owned have only been in snow re ski trips.....essentially nothing.....a blip on the radar compared to what you guys in the northern parts of the U.S. and Canada must go through. Hats off to you .
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:12 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Exiwolfman View Post
...oil is just oil dont matter who makes it looses its viscosity and the ability to protect ur engine.
Permission to argue this point if you don't mind.

Technically, oil doesn't lose viscosity over time. It gains viscosity, getting thicker over time which can then lead to sludge conditions (extra thick).

It does matter who makes the oil as well. A properly formulated motor oil is like Mr. Universe. You can't go hit the gym every day of the week and only work on curls all day and expect to win Mr. Universe. You've got to do it all. A motor oil is similar.

Some manufacturers choose to focus on making their oil minimize deposits. Others might put more effort into wear reduction. While others still might focus on cold flow properties.

My last oil change (on our 2008 Yaris liftback) had 13,946 miles on it and I had done a used oil analysis (UOA) on it at 12,538. At that time, the viscosity was still in check @ 11.4cSt but had thickened up from the viscosity of a new bottle which is 10.5cSt. The maximum centistokes allowed to be classified as a 5W-30 is 12.5cSt. So, as you can see, our oil was still quite clearly a 5W-30.

Over time, if left in the crankcase, this oil would eventually become thick and no longer be a 5W-30 but more of a 5W-40. But that would be a long way off. What I'm finding is that I'm running low on TBN way before any other factors would indicate it's time for an oil change. In other words, my viscosity is good, my wear metals are good, my additives are good, my contaminants are in check, etc but my TBN is getting low.

I find oil interesting and pushing it longer than your average driver is sort of like a hobby. I don't claim to know it all but I feel like I've got a pretty good handle on it.

For what it's worth, I've now dropped to a 0W-20 with 115,000 on the car. I will be doing oil analysis on this oil as well.

I'll be happy to advise on oil. It's what I do. If you don't know what centistokes are or how they're measured or if you don't know what TBN is, let me help you understand oil.

On my last road trip, I had 2 men, all of our gear for 4 days away from home and ELEVEN full cases of oil (12 quarts each case - each case weighs in the range of 24 pounds). I have 15" Miata wheels on our Yaris and I got 35.8 miles per gallon on that trip. Now, before any hyper-milers turn their nose up at that. Know that I made it from Daytona Beach, FL to Murfreesboro, TN in about 8.5 hours (according to Google Maps, it's a 9.5 hour trip) and I don't have LRR tires either. In my opinion, I made stellar time and got great gas mileage in the process.

There's a difference between an ASE Certified Mechanic and chemist or a tribologist. There's a whole science to lubricants - it's complex and interesting.

*about the author (me): I'm ex-Quality Control for BMW and an ex-Technician for Jaguar. I've worked in a shop where we restored classic British automobiles (which lead to the Jaguar deal - at a Jaguar dealership) and I'm a 3x certified welder. I'm now a T-1 Certified AMSOIL Direct Jobber. In other words, when I get into something, I REALLY get in to it.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:50 PM   #22
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We'll than the problem is not so much the oil but filtration a better way to keep it clean as the article states ,it can last a long time . That maybe true problem is that it brakes down do to the contaminants like I said I see what comes out ....I for one do and always will change my oil at 5k ...longer life ,sludge free engine .


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Old 03-29-2014, 12:34 AM   #23
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I actually went 18k miles (not km) on my first engine once before I went boosted. Sent out for an analysis and it came back fine. Really need to see if I can still track that down. It was before I had a file server in the house. It was with AMSOIL Sig Series 5-20 and the EA filter to go along with it. Was only supposed to be good for 15k miles to boot. I was about a half quart low at that point.
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Old 03-29-2014, 12:57 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Idahotom View Post
Mobile 1 and about every 10K, that's about 8 months for me.
Done that with my last four cars. Never seen it burn...
Always comes out looking new.
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Old 03-29-2014, 01:01 AM   #25
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Done that with my last four cars. Never seen it burn...
Always comes out looking new.
To be completely blunt you can't just "look" at used oil. That does not a bit of good. Case in point is a guy on the new 1nz Enthusiasts Garage from PR. He had an analysis report done on his Royal Purple. He was pretty disappointed because it always "looks" good.

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Old 03-29-2014, 07:57 AM   #26
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Honestly, old habits die hard. They keep telling me to wait 5k miles. Yet like clockwork, I'm in at 3k.

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Old 03-29-2014, 08:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentjazz View Post
Hi Yarisworlders,

Just curious the longest you guys have gone between oil changes. I'm kind of anal retentive about changing the oil, but am thinking about easing up my intervals a bit....
Thanks.

bj
When I drove to the Arctic Circle in Alaska from NJ and back (5200 miles one way) I did it on one oil change.

In the Walmart parking lot of Fairbanks I changed the oil. I used Mobile One because gas in northern Cananda was $6-7 dollars a gallon and I hoped to save some money. This is one claim oil companies (used to) make for synthetic oil.

I didnt use less gas on the way home in fact I used slightly more.

Because I drive about 5k miles a year I now change my oil every 6 months. I used to go 3 month regardness of miles. Im thing I will go to one oil filter a year too.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:23 AM   #28
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I'll be doing/ have been doing 5,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. Purchased 4/11/2013 - 5,000 miles & my 1st freebie oil change around 10/11/2013 - 1 year will be 4/11/2014, but right now I have about 6,300 miles. I'll call the service guy at Toyota who I dealt with, but I would imagine it will be changed again regardless of the miles I've put on it.
I did change the factory fill out at 1,500 - I'll stick to 4,000-5,000 mile intervals as the years go by. I have a bunch of Baldwin B33 & B37 (longer) oil filters for it, so I'm set for a long time.
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Old 03-29-2014, 11:12 PM   #29
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3 k is a waste of oil and money. Even Click and Clack say go 5k with conventional.

I go 10k with synthetic and a Toyota filter with no probs and still good looking oil at change time. Oil is soooo much better that the old days and with fuel injected cars, a lot less dilution.
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:36 AM   #30
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I run amsoil 0-20w with a corolla amsoil filter. 15k intervals and im at 73k. Motor runs amazing and is gorgeous inside.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:50 AM   #31
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I do 5k with Mobil 1 synthetic. Change the filter and oil at the same time. It'd probably last longer but I just don't feel like getting an analysis done. It's so easy to change the Yaris oil I'd rather just do it every 5k and not worry about it.
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:19 PM   #32
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I just had my 3rd oil change done using amsoil 5-30 signature,
went 16,000 miles this time before change and with the 15,000 mile
filter , oil looked the same as it did at 5,000 miles and no burn.
I switched over to using amsoil synthetic at 60,000 miles, at
86,000 now, nice only to change oil about every 10-12 month.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:17 AM   #33
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there is a reason manufacturers recommend 7500 miles. 3k is just keeping the oil change places in business. So is 5k. I generally go 6 or 7k unless I need to take the car in for something else, or I wait until I see my gas mileage drop.
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:14 AM   #34
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I wait for the maint req'd light to come on...then wait about 6 months

I usually do about 10k miles with syn 0w-20 or 5w-20/30 and wix filter. i'had tire shop change my oil if it was in there anyway up on rack (lazy) , they use some crap they call "synthetic blend" engine seems to run a bit rough in the upper rpms around 9-10k miles so I went back to doing it myself.
which is usually every 2 or 3 months, and its south florida.... we broke into the 40s maybe once this past winter so I don't worry about cold starts
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:09 PM   #35
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Longest I've ever gone is about 7000 miles. Which wasn't that long since it was on a long, long trip...I put those 7000 miles on in two weeks.

It depends on the use. Long, highway trips with minimal idling or stop/go driving, will cause less contamination of the oil. Cold weather and short trips, more.

The danger is twofold: Sludge, which comes from condensation in the crankcase (unavoidable) mixing with the oil; and dilution, gasoline washdown into the crankcase; as well as blowby from the piston rings. Washdown is not a problem with FI these days, but there is no avoiding blowby.

So...the ONLY prudent thing to do with your investment...is CHANGE OIL REGULARLY.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:05 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alanwagen View Post
3 k is a waste of oil and money. Even Click and Clack say go 5k with conventional.

I go 10k with synthetic and a Toyota filter with no probs and still good looking oil at change time. Oil is soooo much better that the old days and with fuel injected cars, a lot less dilution.
3k is a waste of money. You're absolutely right. 5k should be the minimum.

Actually fuel dilution is now getting worse again. We can thank the EPA for that.

They started messing with diesels in 2007. Adding more complex EGR systems, particulate filters, and urea injection.

We're starting to see the 'trickle down' of that in gasoline burners. Expect to see more fuel enriched oil problems as time goes on. The newer turbo direct injection engines are really the ones to keep an eye on.

I'm not saying 'the sky is falling' but I am saying things are changing and because of these changes, we might see some problems for a bit until manufacturers can identify problems that develop in the real world and work out solutions to them for their future models.
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