06YarisRS's 2ZR-FE Swap 5-Door Hatchback (Automatic Transmission)

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Hell, give it a go, I ran mine with open headers :D

Great job so far

Haha, I just might fire it up without exhaust. What a racket she'll make LOL.

Didn't get as much done as I had wanted to tonight. I really wanted to get the airbox on. I think I'll leave the battery out until the fuel line is dealt with. I did get the transmission cooler lines reconnected, replaced - with new WS - the drained atf, which I didn't really need to drain, but it was close to my scheduled change out anyway. I bent my A/C line at the bottom, where you did Trevor to take pressure off the hose, hooked up all the A/C lines, hooked up the evap lines and brake booster line. I also reinstalled the front crossmember. What slowed me down a bit was that I realized after most of the front was put back together that I had left the hood latch on the outside. After examining it, I realized (of course, silly me) that all I had to do was disconnect the cable and pass it back through.

The young fella is coming back tomorrow to help install the exhaust, so I maybe won't get to start it without exhaust after all. This fuel line is now what will hold me up. Oh, and I did source a low profile mini add-a-circuit today at the local parts store and for only $11.00 (school discount LOL). But, of course I forgot to get another low profile fuse. Of course, there were no spares in the under hood fuse box. Maybe there are in the inside fuse box. And I have double the chance, as I have two Yari!


Anyway, here is the current state of the car. This pic was taken before I moved the latch back inside and mounted it. Oh, and that fat short hose on top of the engine is just a remnant from the Yaris hoses.

[tmontague]

You shouldn't need a mini fuse for the mini fuse tap. A regular fuse will work it will just extend out a little further that is all. Since it travels horizontally it won't interfere with th cover.

Triple check those a/c lines and make sure they are secure!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

You shouldn't need a mini fuse for the mini fuse tap. A regular fuse will work it will just extend out a little further that is all. Since it travels horizontally it won't interfere with th cover.

Triple check those a/c lines and make sure they are secure!

Hey Trevor. I actually picked up a low profile fuse on the way to work today. I was referencing your pic for placement in the fuse box and it didn't look like the non-low profile ones would fit due to an adjacent obstruction in the fuse box.

MAF Voltage question... When I was picking my fuse up, I was explaining to the counter guy what I was using this to power a MAF sensor. He advised that I not supply the MAF sensor with straight 12 volts and said it should receive about 5V. I know you guys have been wiring direct. Are there any issues with providing 12V directly to the MAF?

Thanks!

[tmontague]

Zero issue what so ever. Iirc tom original thread stated that the maf needs to receive 12v power source not 5v

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Zero issue what so ever. Iirc tom original thread stated that the maf needs to receive 12v power source not 5v

Great. Thanks. I was inquiring more out of interest as I would, without hesitation, take your guys' word over anyone elses'. You guys have proven that this all works.

[ArmstrongRacing]

If you follow the black power supply from the “air flow meter”(pg 3) back to the source, it’s supplied by the same EFI#1 fuse(pg1) as the B+ battery signal to the ECM.

http://toyota-corolla.ru/rm04f1ru/ew...nt/ECS-1ZR.pdf

[06YarisRS]

The Good: It started after about 5 seconds of cranking. The engine runs very smooth and sounds good.

The Bad: 1) I have a battery light and 10.2 volts. EDIT: I now have less than 9 volts and the car won't turn over. I guess I'll take the alternator off and have it tested.

Could some of the other problems be caused by low voltage?

2) I'll let the picture do the talking.



I don't know whether to laugh or cry!

Hoping to get your advice/opinions, gents!

I'm pretty sure all the conectors are attached.

For the P0102, I'll check my connections again, clean the MAF sensor. I do not have a clamp on the intake tube at the throttebody, so maybe that's the problem.

Air fuel ratio looks good at around 14.7:1

[ArmstrongRacing]

Regarding the charging issue, I would follow this link and look at the image on page 62.

https://www.slideshare.net/crcs2009/...iring-diagrams

The battery light means there is less voltage at the regulator diodes than the battery. Pins 1&2 should both have battery voltage with the ignition on, if not the alternator will not charge. The other white #1 is the large cable to the battery and that should also have battery voltage.
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The MAF codes I believe, are referring to an incorrect signal back to the ECM. Double check that you have 12v at the CENTER wire on the MAF plug, that should be the wire you applied the add-a-circuit to. Check that there is no pinch or fray damage to the MAF harness.
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I'm gonna check on the other code, that's confusing...I'll return to edit

EDIT: I looked over Brushforhire's and my own swap thread, and yes the only wiring required to correct the P2770 is that the Blue wire(pin 9) is grounded EXITING the control plug(not the wire coming from the harness). Double check that the crimp and attachment to the trans is solid.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

Regarding the charging issue, I would follow this link and look at the image on page 62.

https://www.slideshare.net/crcs2009/...iring-diagrams

The battery light means there is less voltage at the regulator diodes than the battery. Pins 1&2 should both have battery voltage with the ignition on, if not the alternator will not charge. The other white #1 is the large cable to the battery and that should also have battery voltage.
------------------
The MAF codes I believe, are referring to an incorrect signal back to the ECM. Double check that you have 12v at the CENTER wire on the MAF plug, that should be the wire you applied the add-a-circuit to. Check that there is no pinch or fray damage to the MAF harness.
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I'm gonna check on the other code, that's confusing...I'll return to edit

EDIT: I looked over Brushforhire's and my own swap thread, and yes the only wiring required to correct the P2770 is that the Blue wire(pin 9) is grounded EXITING the control plug(not the wire coming from the harness). Double check that the crimp and attachment to the trans is solid.

Thank you Tom!

The blue wire comes out of pin 10 on my connector unless I'm reading the diagram incorrectly. The connector in this pic below comes from my scionXd wiring diagrams.



I will follow up on your suggestions. Last night I went back out and unplugged and replugged the MAF sensor connector. I reset the codes and the only one that is returning is the P2770 code after 5 or 6 mintues of running. I had the battery connected with jumper cables to my van. Maybe it takes longer for the codes to set.

To add to this, my A/C compressor sounds really noisy, like a bearing is bad. It's like an unlubricated metal on metal sound.

I had so hoped that everything would be good on my startup. Looks like I still have some work ahead of me!

[tmontague]

I'd double check your ground on the trans. Use a multimeter or test light and make sure it is a good ground. If that's good then check the wiring.

Glad to hear the rest of the codes cleared up. Congrats on the start up, dont be upset about a few bugs that need to be worked out, its par for the course

[06YarisRS]

Thanks you guys. You really take the edge off the worry. I have another thought. My CA2 connector may not be 100% seated. I recall it going in a bit hard and I taped it up too far, losing flexibility. Of course I'm at work and wanting to run out the door, go home and check it. I don't know if this has anything to do with the charging but I bet it might be the cause of the trans code. Probably all wishful thinking on my part, but nevertheless a place to check first.

[tmontague]

When you get home use a tool to read voltage while the car is running and push on the connector or wiggle it, see the voltage changes.

Until then accept what is and let it go. You'll be more fresh when you get back to the car

[atomic_hoji]

Man, you're doing great so far! Only a few little hiccups..

Tom and Trevor have already noted good troubleshooting steps, but if you are having alt. problems the low voltage could very well be tripping up those other systems. Between that and checking your grounds and/or soldered and wire connections I think you'll be in good shape.

A/C could be pulley bearing? Could squirt some lube and see if it quiets - would need replacing long run. I don't recall, but you're sure you have enough oil in it?

Keep at it! And no need to cry, laughing is always better - even at the bad stuff; everything can be fixed (some things just make a bigger mountain.. lol). Swearing and hitting it sometimes helps makes you feel better, but I've found rarely helps - and often ends up hurting..

-- Adam

[ArmstrongRacing]

Can you post a picture of the xD transmission diagram to verify? I don’t have access to any.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by ArmstrongRacing

Can you post a picture of the xD transmission diagram to verify? I don’t have access to any.

Hi Tom.

Here is a pic of my current connector with ground.

I'll post the requested diagram shortly - as soon as I figure out which one I need for you.



Here is the diagram. I can send you the pdf if that helps. Thanks!

[atomic_hoji]

Unless there's a trick with the autobox, pin 10 on your connector should run through the engine harness from the ECM to the transmission, not from ground to the transmission.

The way it looks right now is that the ECM will ask for S2 solenoid and I have no idea where the blue wire in the engine harness is, but if it's touching something it could be causing a ground fault. What the ECM wants is to power output S2 and energize the coil - power from ECM, through a coil, to the ground in the ECT solenoid box.

At least that's how I interpret it..

edit: looking at my Gen 3 diagram the pins on C29 connector for the xD match the Yaris' autobox inputs i.e. pin 1 on the xD connector pairs to THO; pin 2 to ST; ...; pin 9 SLU-; pin 10 S2. Only pin 7 should be blanked/empty.

-- Adam

[06YarisRS]

Hey, thanks Adam. Not sure what it all means. Could it possibly mean that if I reconnected the blue wire, that my troubles would disappear? Probably wishful thinking. Haha

[atomic_hoji]

lol - yes, I think you need to re-connect your blue wire; at least from what I see on the wiring diagram and that connector picture. Tom or Trevor may have a different reason as to why one of the wires on the autobox is grounded though - the autobox isn't my forte.. MT has a 2-pin connector for reverse indication. lol

-- Adam