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Old 07-28-2010, 03:52 PM   #37
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probably won't make a difference if it's dino or syn as long as there's a slow internal coolant leak that's not detected . I wonder if using the synthethic so early just sped up the leak for a faulty cylinder head gasket . . This shoudn't be happening with 2 new cars . All I know is that we're p*ssed off at TOYOTA . Don't think we'll buy any more . They're probably aware of this issue and haven't gone public yet until there's more complaints . We may have to get a used oil analysis for both . That's if we don't trade them in .

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Old 07-29-2010, 02:12 PM   #38
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You are absolutely correct about starting on synthetic too early,the engine requires the factory filled high detergent oil for break-in.I extensively reserched the sluge issue,and every source points back to my first post,...change your oil every time the maintenance minder light comes on.pay no attention to what anyone says regaurding changing your oil at 3000 or 5000 miles,as those are just industry standards...not Toyotas.The maintenance minder system caculates by its own milage interval.sludge is caused by water in the oil,it gets in there via condensation everytime you engine is shut down and the oil temp drops below 212 degrees farenheit.the longer the same oil is used the more water accumulates,this is while oil shoud be changed once a year even if the engine is never started.

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Old 07-29-2010, 02:18 PM   #39
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You are absolutely correct about starting on synthetic too early,the engine requires the factory filled high detergent oil for break-in.I extensively reserched the sluge issue,and every source points back to my first post,...change your oil every time the maintenance minder light comes on.pay no attention to what anyone says regaurding changing your oil at 3000 or 5000 miles,as those are just industry standards...not Toyotas.the maintenance minder system caculates every variable possible[idle time,miles driven,engine loads,average speed]and decides by that data when you should change the oil.sludge is caused by water in the oil,it gets in there via condensation everytime you engine is shut down and the oil temp drops below 212 degrees farenheit.the longer the same oil is used the more water accumulates,this is while oil shoud be changed once a year even if the engine is never started.
I thought that the maintenance light pops up close to a 5,000 mile oil change interval which is what the manual states. It does this on mine.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:23 PM   #40
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I will also give you guys some PCV info:Every engine has piston ring blow-by,even a brand new one.this is why that break-in period is so vital,to properly seat all moving engine components.the pcv system removes the ring blow-by,oil mist,and the water vapors from the crankcase and returns it to the intake to be burned durring combustion.when the oil is not changed regularly,the sludge makes its way into the pcv system and clogs it.as a result,many oil leaks and an increased amount of sludge formation will occur.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:31 PM   #41
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Now...Synthetic oil.too many peole have no faith in the refined petroleum.this oil is resistant to oxidization,thermal breakdown AND sludge problems.the unstable molecules in conventional oil easily vaporize and oxidize in extreme heat,and will not pump below -34 degrees.extreme conditions is where synthetics shine,they pump from -58 to degees and gains of up to 10hp have been noted by carcraft dyno's.synthetics flow better at low temperatures durring start-up and in the lowe rpm range due to less initial drag for the engine to overcome.
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:33 PM   #42
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close to 5000?

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I thought that the maintenance light pops up close to a 5,000 mile oil change interval which is what the manual states. It does this on mine.
close to 5000miles...not exactly 5000.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:10 PM   #43
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The engine tear down was due to oil consumption,rough idle,and the head gasket was leaking oil. they got their oil changes done at wal-mart,jiffy-lube,penzoil,ect...this was their first visit to a dealer.im assuming they use a bul generic oil at those places, dont know what grade.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:12 PM   #44
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Toyota uses ENEOS NIPPON 0-20w or 0-50w syn in there cars. which is what they come from the factory.This comes from the window sticker from my 07 yaris.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:21 PM   #45
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Huh... I thought it was at a preset mileage... I changed my oil at 3,000 before the light came on and around 2000 more miles, BAM there goes the light..

What about the driver's habits? Frequent, short trips without allowing the car to reach operating temp could cause sludge buildup as well.. I know that a head gasket leak would answer a lot of this, but wouldn't the tops of those pistons also be clean with a slow amount of liquid(water) passing through(head gasket?) Carbon buildup there could also be answered with my statement as well...

This is pretty interesting though.. Who knows what the "lube technicians" did during those oil changes ... So many variables! x.x
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:39 PM   #46
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eneos

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Toyota uses ENEOS NIPPON 0-20w or 0-50w syn in there cars. which is what they come from the factory.This comes from the window sticker from my 07 yaris.
Extremely good oil.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:25 PM   #47
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Toyota uses ENEOS NIPPON 0-20w or 0-50w syn in there cars. which is what they come from the factory.This comes from the window sticker from my 07 yaris.
Where does it state the oil installed from the factory on the window sticker ? New to us . . Do know they use a different oil filter from the factory for the break in period which is the 90915-10003 made by DENSO . Wonder if the factory installed 90915-10003 oil filter has better filtration than the TOYOTA ( Denso ) 90915-YZZF2 to catch metals , sealant residue , etc. ?
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:32 PM   #48
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Huh... I thought it was at a preset mileage... I changed my oil at 3,000 before the light came on and around 2000 more miles, BAM there goes the light..

What about the driver's habits? Frequent, short trips without allowing the car to reach operating temp could cause sludge buildup as well.. I know that a head gasket leak would answer a lot of this, but wouldn't the tops of those pistons also be clean with a slow amount of liquid(water) passing through(head gasket?) Carbon buildup there could also be answered with my statement as well...

This is pretty interesting though.. Who knows what the "lube technicians" did during those oil changes ... So many variables! x.x
If it's a very fine internal leak most moisture probably would get burned off ( evaporate ) . So , could take a long time for it to accumulate internally . The only thing to most likely detect it early would be with a U.O.A. ( Used Oil Analysis ) . We may have to go that route .

Last edited by Hershey; 07-29-2010 at 11:51 PM.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:49 PM   #49
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So , 2007tRD you're suggesting that I / we should check or possibly replace the PCV as early as 20,000+ miles ? They're not all that expensive ( < $ 7.00 ) at a TOYO parts department . Think the part number for the '08 sedan which was manufactured in APRIL of '08 is 12204-12011 . Here's a thread for the correct PCV valve for your YARIS , www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20198 . Appreciate all your help .
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:58 AM   #50
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Where does it state the oil installed from the factory on the window sticker ? New to us . . Do know they use a different oil filter from the factory for the break in period which is the 90915-10003 made by DENSO . Wonder if the factory installed 90915-10003 oil filter has better filtration than the TOYOTA ( Denso ) 90915-YZZF2 to catch metals , sealant residue , etc. ?
Looks like the TRD 90915-SP000 is the 90915-10003s' equal . Think it's around $15 . Ouch .
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:55 AM   #51
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close to 5000miles...not exactly 5000.
no, on the Yaris it is programmed by miles driven. no other factors afaik
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:57 AM   #52
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If it's a very fine internal leak most moisture probably would get burned off ( evaporate ) . So , could take a long time for it to accumulate internally . The only thing to most likely detect it early would be with a U.O.A. ( Used Oil Analysis ) . We may have to go that route .
to detect a headgasket leak, you do a compression test on the
cylinders and a pressure test on the cooling system.

and use a block tester on the coolant to detect exhaust gasses

uoa is overkill, don't need one

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Old 07-30-2010, 09:54 AM   #53
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So , 2007tRD you're suggesting that I / we should check or possibly replace the PCV as early as 20,000+ miles ? They're not all that expensive ( < $ 7.00 ) at a TOYO parts department . Think the part number for the '08 sedan which was manufactured in APRIL of '08 is 12204-12011 . Here's a thread for the correct PCV valve for your YARIS , www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20198 . Appreciate all your help .
some sources say to replace the pcv valve along with your spark plugs at their intervals.The service manual says no such thing though.
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:55 AM   #54
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no, on the Yaris it is programmed by miles driven. no other factors afaik
read your owners/service manual...I just looked over mine, and it says it comes on "about" 4500 miles from the last reset.

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