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Old 03-12-2013, 02:12 PM   #19
Amdkt7
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Yes, I believe it is because the rpms are so low. The ECU is trying to save as much fuel while idling as possible. 600 RPM is very low for a 4 cylinder engine. If the air needs to come on, or if the battery charge is getting low the ECU will boost the RPMs, it also will not idle that slow when it is cold. Now, if you are getting a check engine light you do have a problem. To be sure you could have the engine codes read to see if there are any issues.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #20
adrianangel
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rough idle, poor acceleration

My yaris started with poor acceleration and rough idle a couple of days ago. Putting in gas treatment did nothing. Then the check engine light came on. Took it to Pepboys, they did an analysis: it was a bad coil. One of the four coils above the four sparkplugs. Their engine analyzer told them which coil it was. I plan on buying an engine analyzer for myself for sixty bucks for in the future for when the other three coils crap out. The engine analyzers plug in under the steering wheel... so they told me. The new coil was about one hundred bucks.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:54 AM   #21
TLyttle
 
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I guess I'm lucky. My 07 sedan drops to 550rpm, quiet, steady as a rock. What am I doing wrong?? ;-)
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:26 AM   #22
cosmin1984
 
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My 2012 Yaris 10.000 km is doing the same ..... vibration when idle ...I guess due to low RPM ..... when I am turn the lights on the RPM is grow up and the vibration disappear. I was to Toyota dealer we scanned the engine no error codes... I really hate this vibration ... !! So what we can do ?
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Old 06-08-2017, 12:19 AM   #23
itspravin
 
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I have Toyota Yaris 2013 Auto transmission.
From last 3 to 4 days I am experiencing problem of Car shaking badly when Parked with hand brake on and Airconditioning on...after turning off Airconditioning no shakes and car runs good but after turning on Airconditioning on same happens again but While driving everything is normal.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:47 AM   #24
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In my case, the throttle body (here we call it butterfly :p) was dirty. I took it to my mechanic they cleaned it and problem solved


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Old 06-13-2017, 09:10 AM   #25
praivo
 
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I had this problem too (rough idle with lights on, OK without). Then I filled up with "premium" 98-octane fuel once, just out of curiosity, and the problem was gone within 30 seconds after re-starting the car! When I was waiting at an intersection to exit the station, the idle was already completely smooth. And it really *was* because of the fuel because the stuff I used to buy before makes the problem reappear - again, almost instantly.
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Old 06-13-2017, 10:22 AM   #26
dogsridewith
 
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A digital multimeter on frequency setting reading the 2007 Yaris 1NZFE pin 9 (?) on the diagnostics connector settled right at 20 pulses per second (=600 rpm) when warm (not sure if same when warm w/ A/C and/or lights on, etc.) The manual wants 600 rpm. (My 1991 FA-FE Corolla is 700, or maybe 750) So I wouldn't want 550, particularly if rough idling. Isn't one of Hal's control circuits trying to make the idle 600? (Corolla has a mechanic-turned screw that adjusts a bypass airflow...it isn't the butterfly stop screw, which is just there to stop the butterfly before it jams in the throttle body.)
(edit: oops? maybe the 5-speed gets 600 and the automatic 550?)
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:43 AM   #27
Greeneyez15o
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Shakey

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
If it does it when the car is stopped with your foot on the brake, try pulling the ebrake lever and taking your foot off the brake. CoryM pointed this out in another thread, and I noticed that my 08 was doing it. I would have expected the brake booster to leak vacuum all the time, if it has a leak, but apparently, it can leak only when actuated.
I just bought a 2017 YarisIA 2-3 weeks ago. I am having this same issue that while on the brakes at a red light I feel the car trembling. I did do what u said with the ebrake lever which worked for the reminder, but then I parked n when I went on a drive again, the trembling began again. Any updates on how to fix ? I'm heading to Toyota on Monday, but not expecting much from them . Any help will be highly appreciated, thanx

Just got back from Toyota to get the car serviced. Waste of time, was told they couldn't find anything wrong, still trembling when i come to a stop :( any suggestions ?

Last edited by Greeneyez15o; 06-04-2018 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 06-01-2018, 12:00 PM   #28
DarkShadowFox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by praivo View Post
I had this problem too (rough idle with lights on, OK without). Then I filled up with "premium" 98-octane fuel once, just out of curiosity, and the problem was gone within 30 seconds after re-starting the car! When I was waiting at an intersection to exit the station, the idle was already completely smooth. And it really *was* because of the fuel because the stuff I used to buy before makes the problem reappear - again, almost instantly.
higher millage engines sometimes will require higher octane fuels to operate correctly or those with lots of wear. try running sea foam through your car and injector cleaner and cleaning out your throttle body and MAF sensor.
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:48 AM   #29
GeoffreyVB
 
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I've noticed a similar issue with my Yaris. It's got what I would discribe as a shutter at idle it seems completely random, it's almost as if it just misses a cylinder sometimes. I got a OBD2 reader and was able to see that the vacuum does drop at the same time these little studders occur.
It's got about 160k miles on it, I'm thinking I'll try cleaning the MAF and I could change plugs? But it wasn't all that long ago I did that.

It's recently also started doing it other times than idle too. I tried. Checking the air fuel ratio with the OBD2 but it sounds like that might just give the target?
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Old 12-30-2019, 02:35 AM   #30
rayfloyd170
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffreyVB View Post
I've noticed a similar issue with my Yaris. It's got what I would discribe as a shutter at idle it seems completely random, it's almost as if it just misses a cylinder sometimes. I got a OBD2 reader and was able to see that the vacuum does drop at the same time these little studders occur.
It's got about 160k miles on it, I'm thinking I'll try cleaning the MAF and I could change plugs? But it wasn't all that long ago I did that.

It's recently also started doing it other times than idle too. I tried. Checking the air fuel ratio with the OBD2 but it sounds like that might just give the target?
Exactly had the same issue for quite a while..

I have cleaned the TB, MAF, PCV and regularly changed oils and filter as well as changed plugs... but the problem is still intermittently there and i learned to lived with it as i heard it is Normal for all Yaris having manual trans...

Anyway, i got nothing to loose and said to myself to try the Gumout regane fuel system cleaner with PEA which i find on the shelf in the store and was surprised to see a big difference..

No more shutter at idle for 1 week now and counting... my wild guess, it could be partially dirty injectors or fuel system lines, i also get ~20% extra mpg...

i know some people confirmed it to be related to the brake booster but with just a few bucks i got nothing to loose here...
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