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Old 09-11-2019, 10:39 AM   #433
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Originally Posted by WeeYari View Post
Would love to have my ass in the seat of that car.

Use your new found power responsibly and the tranny should serve you well.
Visit the Maritimes and you can drive it yourself, WeeYari!
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:40 AM   #434
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Victory!
Yeeeaaahhhh!!! So far anyway. Lol.
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:41 AM   #435
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Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan View Post
Victory!
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Originally Posted by Leegamer View Post
Responsibility is overrated, lol
It does dampen the fun a bit. Lol
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Old 09-11-2019, 10:47 AM   #436
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Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Bahah Yaris a/t's are cheap and easy to come by from a wreckers, I say go nuts!

FWIW you may want to swap out your trans fluid for a performance grade fluid like Amsoil or other. May give you some longer life from your trans should you grow an heavy foot!
That's the attitude. Lol. And, you're bang on about the trannies being cheap. I found one a while back on ebay that was from a wreck, something like 18000 miles on it for around $300.00 usd plus shipping.

I've always been an OEM trans fluid guy, especially after owning a Grand Caravan. It was ATF+4 or nothing. So, it's established that a good performance fluid would be perfectly compatible with the auto? Because, I would hands-down swap out the fluid for its superior properties if it was truly compatible in both the short and long term.
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Old 09-11-2019, 02:43 PM   #437
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
That's the attitude. Lol. And, you're bang on about the trannies being cheap. I found one a while back on ebay that was from a wreck, something like 18000 miles on it for around $300.00 usd plus shipping.

I've always been an OEM trans fluid guy, especially after owning a Grand Caravan. It was ATF+4 or nothing. So, it's established that a good performance fluid would be perfectly compatible with the auto? Because, I would hands-down swap out the fluid for its superior properties if it was truly compatible in both the short and long term.
nothing wrong with OE fluids but your car is far from OE spec, not only with the bigger engine but the turbo as well. You likely will be fine with regular fluid changes as you have a cooler but I'm thinking more in the area of shear resistance from a better fluid.

OE spec fluid would meet sheer requirements the trans would face with the stock engine, in your case the clutches are working over time and I think a more sheer stable fluid would be some extra insurance. I have never heard of an issue with Toyota trans running Amsoil or even other fluid like Maxlife - they don't seem to be very sensitive to fluids as long as the fluid states it is compatible.

I personally always flush my used Toyota's with Maxlife simply because it is well priced and available locally to me. According to BITOG it is a pretty robust ATF and has always run well in my Toyota's (and Subaru's) that I have put a lot of mileage on. If I was in your situation I would likely go with an Amsoil product but it may be overkill. Just something to think about. If you are good with your fluid changes then you likely will never have to worry
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:09 AM   #438
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nothing wrong with OE fluids but your car is far from OE spec, not only with the bigger engine but the turbo as well. You likely will be fine with regular fluid changes as you have a cooler but I'm thinking more in the area of shear resistance from a better fluid.

OE spec fluid would meet sheer requirements the trans would face with the stock engine, in your case the clutches are working over time and I think a more sheer stable fluid would be some extra insurance. I have never heard of an issue with Toyota trans running Amsoil or even other fluid like Maxlife - they don't seem to be very sensitive to fluids as long as the fluid states it is compatible.

I personally always flush my used Toyota's with Maxlife simply because it is well priced and available locally to me. According to BITOG it is a pretty robust ATF and has always run well in my Toyota's (and Subaru's) that I have put a lot of mileage on. If I was in your situation I would likely go with an Amsoil product but it may be overkill. Just something to think about. If you are good with your fluid changes then you likely will never have to worry
Great info, Trevor. I'll definitely consider the use of a quality aftermarket fluid. The Amsoil might have a slight edge on the Valvoline product, but, like you say, maybe overkill. I plan to do some reading on the products. The fluid in my car is quite fresh. It's had a recent drain and fills and a couple more before that within the last 20 or 30K kms. I've also been considering the purchase of a performance valve body. It might be a very good first upgrade and one that should be fairly easy as it could be done without the need to drop the trans. Going to do some more reading on that too.
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Old 09-18-2019, 07:37 PM   #439
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Tune and oil filters (random)

I haven't been completely happy with the tune from the tuner. Yesterday I was getting some erratic AFRs and a bit of bucking at "high speed" cruise. I call high speed cruise around 130 - 140 km/h. I decided to upload the basemap to the FIC and give it a run. The car worked much better. I did have a very slight buck at around 120 km/h on a slight incline at part throttle. This time though, it went rich and bogged. So, I leaned it out a bit and then drove for a good hour up and down hills, different speeds and it worked great. AFRs remained reasonable steady and I'm getting 11.5:1 at WOT. I still have to install the 2.2K ohm resistor on the crank signal wire and hope to do that this weekend.

Oil and oil filters.

Walmart USA has SuperTech Full Syn on at $14.97 a jug. I have to take my daughter to events in St. Stephen next to the border two nights a week. I have an hour to kill, so I go across each time and grab a jug and a filter each time. Being a cheapskate and all, I avoid duty this way. I also get to fill up with Shell V-Power 93 while I'm there.

Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. Play along if you're bored.

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Old 09-19-2019, 09:48 AM   #440
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post
Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. Play along if you're bored.
Doesn't answer your question but I have several Toyotas and it just made sense for me to swap the cartridge setup for the traditional can style. Now all of my 'Yotas use the same one. The Vibe is possibly going to get the swap as well since it's also a 2ZR.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:54 AM   #441
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I just use Toyota filters. Gotta be good enough right?

I have used the fram filters on the beater before. Sometimes I just can't get to the dealer with their hours and my work schedule. I've never noticed anything horrible about them like a lot of people say. 340,000km and still purrs like a kitten.
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Xd/2zr-fe Swap/Build Thread
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Old 09-19-2019, 10:20 AM   #442
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:38 PM   #443
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Doesn't answer your question but I have several Toyotas and it just made sense for me to swap the cartridge setup for the traditional can style. Now all of my 'Yotas use the same one. The Vibe is possibly going to get the swap as well since it's also a 2ZR.
Yes, I've definitely been considering switching to the screw on can setup. I think the adapter is around $80.00 USD plus shipping. Probably $500.00 at the local dealer. Afterall, they wanted close to $500.00 for a vehicle speed sensor.
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:44 PM   #444
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I just use Toyota filters. Gotta be good enough right?

I have used the fram filters on the beater before. Sometimes I just can't get to the dealer with their hours and my work schedule. I've never noticed anything horrible about them like a lot of people say. 340,000km and still purrs like a kitten.
Damn straight about Toyota filters.

I used Fram all throughout my early automotive years, long before I'd heard about the unsubstanitated "orange can of death" lore. Never had one single issue, cardboard end caps or not, and I often had very long OCIs.
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:48 PM   #445
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sexy outcome (all of it)
Oooh yeah! So, who bought the Blitz? Just kidding/respecting privacy. Though, hopefully whomever did will make it known! Haha
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:22 PM   #446
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Originally Posted by 06YarisRS View Post

Just for fun, for you 2ZR folks, which filter would you buy and why? The SuperTech is $2.97, the Fram and the K&N are ~ $4.50 each. If you tell me your choice and reasoning, I'll tell you which one I bought and why. Play along if you're bored.

I feel a little silly quoting myself, but I went for the K&N, not because I'm a big fan, but because it had seemingly the largest surface area, although very close to the Fram, and it's supposed to be very high flow media. With the turbo, I'd like the most oil possible pumping through the system. I've heard good things about the SuperTech filters and wouldn't normally hesitate to use one, but it looks like it might be a little restrictive given how much of the media the end caps cover.
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:02 PM   #447
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Some positive developments

I always hate to say that something is definitively fixed. Or, that I've finally solved something or other, as I've learned that with these types of extreme modifications, there are really no 'for sures' or 'finallys'

But, I installed the 2.2 K Ohm resistor between crank mag + and -. Scions and Toyota's using the AEM F/IC often suffer from a dirty crank and cam sensor signal that freaks the F/IC out and it messes with (probably pulls) timing resulting in bucking at part throttle under low boost, or in the transition between boost and vacuum, I believe. In many cases these dirty signals have been known to mess with the idle as well.

I have driven the car for a good hour and a half and have zero bucking. I will qualify this by saying that I didn't get out on the highway where I was experiencing some bucking at around 130 km/h at a certain load. However, the slight bucking that I experienced at lower speeds and loads is gone (for now). Tomorrow I will get out on the highway and test. I may have to re adjust my fuel table as I made changes before the resistor install.

Idle: after 1.5 hours driving, sitting and idling (for numerous periods of time) in park, neutral and in gear with every accessory turned on, I experienced not one buck or idle fluctuation. Once the car hits operating temp it settles down at idle to around 600 rpm and is rock steady. The car also starts as soon as the ignition is turned.

Anyway, it looks good, but, again, I'm not holding by breath.

resistor soldered in



A Torque bonus

I was scanning through the available sensors and hadn't noticed before that an available PID is B1S1 CAT Temp and B1S2 CAT Temp. This is awesome as I can get a fair sense of my EGTs. The middle 2 gauges are B1S1 CAT Temp (top) and B1S2 CAT Temp (bottom). This is a great find. In this pic, the downstream 02 sensor hadn't reached operating temps so the voltage remained at 0.1V. As soon as I drove a bit, it came to life. I had been getting the occasional P0420 (Catalyst Inefficiency) code but I think it was due to the car bucking, going extremely lean and/or extremely rich under different conditions, shooting the 02 sensor voltage out of range. I will run the car for a bit and if the code returns, I'll just add a spark plug defouler, pulling the 02 sensor a back a touch out of the exhaust stream.

Anyway, at idle, I'm getting around 800 F EGT, around 1000 at cruise and after several good, but short boost sessions, I reached a max of around 1200 - 1300F. Keeping in mind that the temp is being taken after the turbo which I've read can be a couple hundred degrees cooler. So, that still seems good, not too high. Apparently many aftermarket EGT gauges start their redline around 1600F.



Car idling great

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Old 09-28-2019, 10:39 PM   #448
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Excellent to hear, I hope it stays this way.

FWIW I monitored O2 sensor temp last year using my ultra gauge, I don't remember if it was s1 or s2 but it read between 1000F and 1400F+ if I really got on it.

Be careful about using a spark plug defoulders with the p0420. I tried that on my 3.6R subie and I ended up eventually triggering 2 or 3 other O2 codes due to voltage and slow response time - although the original p0420 never came back during the defoulder install. I also confirmed via fuel trims that is was messing with the fueling a bit.

I remember you mentioning the secondary O2 sensors in newer cars actually having an effect on fueling and looks like you were bang on. You can use O2 sensor voltage to diagnose if it is in fact a bad catylitic converter or not via watching its waveform or just careful monitoring of its voltage while on quiet back roads.

How exactly does the resistor work? I'm curious based on how it is wired in, what does it actually do to the wires.
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Old 09-29-2019, 08:58 AM   #449
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Excellent to hear, I hope it stays this way.

FWIW I monitored O2 sensor temp last year using my ultra gauge, I don't remember if it was s1 or s2 but it read between 1000F and 1400F+ if I really got on it.

Be careful about using a spark plug defoulders with the p0420. I tried that on my 3.6R subie and I ended up eventually triggering 2 or 3 other O2 codes due to voltage and slow response time - although the original p0420 never came back during the defoulder install. I also confirmed via fuel trims that is was messing with the fueling a bit.

I remember you mentioning the secondary O2 sensors in newer cars actually having an effect on fueling and looks like you were bang on. You can use O2 sensor voltage to diagnose if it is in fact a bad catylitic converter or not via watching its waveform or just careful monitoring of its voltage while on quiet back roads.

How exactly does the resistor work? I'm curious based on how it is wired in, what does it actually do to the wires.
Yeah, I hope it keeps working well. I'll know a bit later today as I'll be going for a good highway run.

EGTs:

I did some more reading on EGTs vs 02 sensors for monitoring data on temps. Most of what's available on the net regarding EGTs is referring to diesels. However, it is commonly accepted that EGTs should be monitored pre turbo (in the exhaust manifold). A portion (probably a significant amount) of the heat from the exhaust manifold is converted into mechanical energy spinning the turbine. This would account for a lower reading post turbo. I did take my 2008 (completely stock) Yaris out and monitored the CAT B1S1 temps as a comparison. I didn't see any significant temp differences between the two cars. Both were somewhere around 1000 when cruising and around 1300 - 1350 ish when being driven moderately to hard. This makes me feel a bit better as actual EGTs should be within specification even given the different AFRs (stock vs turbo tuned). Then again, maybe my EGTs are actually higher in the turbo car as the stock Yaris's 02 sensor is closer to the manifold and doesn't have a turbo infront of it. As an indirect comparison, the CAT temps on my Kia Sedona run as high as 1500s - 1600s and have ever since owning it. It's never had any issues. I am not ruling out the installation of an actual EGT sensor and gauge. Nor am I ruling out water or water/meth injection or a an intercooler misting system. That said, my intake temps are quite low and I never plan on going full boost immediately after sitting in bumper to bumper traffic in the summer. I'm also running Shell V-Power 93 and a fairly low boost. And, although I do go into boost fairly often, it is rarely sustained for longer than 7 - 8 seconds. I'm no engineer but even though EGTs can spike quickly, I think the actual head, pistons, valves etc would require a little more time to get hot enough to melt. I plan to do a bit of reading on heat soak and EGTs. Another thing I'm going to look into is moving my intake a bit lower and possibly toward or into the area in front of the wheel well a bit.

Defoulers:

Yes, installing a defouler may well adversely affect AFRs. I would start by installing only one as opposed to two. Before I did the swap or turbo, I had a code, I think it was the P0420 as a local mechanic removed my primary CAT. I installed the defoulers and ran that right up until the swap with no codes or adverse effects. Even if I do try this and it messes a bit with AFRs, I expect that my ECU will be able to compensate by adjusting trims. Some day, I'm going to tackle the 02 spoofing feature of the F/IC. I can adjust voltages tricking the ECU to target a non-stoich AFR without knowing it. I guess they had limited success with this though across a number of applications at turbokits.com. Doesn't mean I won't try it eventually though. I'd sure love to have more control of fueling in closed loop. I was looking at the Haltech ECUs again and they offer closed loop fueling, but they are standalones, so god knows what other issues I might run into with such things as DBW and peripherals.

Resistor:

I don't really understand how it works wired that way as I'm very weak knowledge-wise in the electrical department. The best explanaton I could find is from a post by member Vitigo on scionlife. He says, "... to pull down the voltage I need to connect the resistor to ground. thats why you guys do on you tc is that, connect the resistor to the + to - so you can pull down the voltage on the + side."
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2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler

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Old 09-30-2019, 03:12 PM   #450
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A Real Buck Fest...

I did my highway drive today and it was like riding a bucking bronco at around 130Km/h with wild AFR swings under moderate throttle, accelerating. I had made fuel changes to the base map that comes with the kit before I installed the resistor. Figuring that these changes were adversely interacting with the resistor install (timing), I uploaded a fresh copy of the F/IC cal. file. I had some very minor bucking at a specific area of the fuel map. But this time I tried something different. Rather than tweaking the fuel map using AFRs, I used fuel trims data. When the bucking occured, I would see the ECU pull 20 - 25% fuel. It was going extremely rich causing the car to bog. When it jumped to an adjacent fuel cell, it would go stoich or slightly lean and the ECU would dump fuel in. This is what was causing the wild AFR swings. I found a long hill, set my cruise control so that I could maintain the load and rpm where the bucking was happening and the trims showed fuel being pulled. I pulled a tiny bit of fuel from those cells and, bingo, fuel trims stabilized. I kept working the map and in almost all sections of the fuel map, now, I rarely see more that 2 - 3% short term fuel trim correction and it's often at 0.0%. It is a significant understatement to say that miniscule adjustments in the fuel map produce massive changes in AFR! Tenth's of a percent can radically affect fuel ratios, it seems. I had no idea it was that sensitive. I can only imagine how much work it was to create that basemap in the first place. Of course, those guys aren't starting from zero in the knowledge department like I am. I am beginning to wonder if there are slight differences in the fueling strategies between the Corolla (for which this kit and base map were developed) and the Scion xD ECU which might account for the tune/performance abnormalities.

So, for now, I have no idle stalling (prefect idle, under full accessory and gear load or no load in neutral or park) and no bucking at any highway speeds/loads. Fingers crossed that these settings stay and that the car continues to drive smoothly. I did a good hour or two driving under all conditions and it was like driving a stock car, except with a heck of a lot more power. If things start to go awry, I am going to do more reading on standalone ECUs, O2 sensor spoofing or removing my wideband O2 sensor and going full open loop, custom maps (if it's possible) with this car.

I still have to tighten my wastegate flapper and try to ring another 2 - 2.5 psi out of the turbo. I'm waiting until my fender liner arrives to jack the car up. When I reinstalled the lower engine covers, I was in a hurry and missed attaching the front of the wheel well liner and burned a hole through it on the highway. It was definitely a panic moment as I heard this awful scraping sound and started to smell burning plastic. I was pretty relieved to see that it was just the wheel well liner.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Edvs_TSGkY
2008 Yaris LE H&R 10mm spacers (rear), RS rear spoiler

Last edited by 06YarisRS; 10-01-2019 at 03:49 PM.
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