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Old 05-15-2017, 03:18 PM   #1
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Exhaust leaking after replacing rear muffler

---- SOLVED ---- I have let the dealer replace the muffler for an original one instead of my aftermarket one: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=13


Our Yaris '06 failed technical inspection because the rear muffler was quite crispy and rotten through on some points.

I replaced it (quite an easy job to be honest). However, the original muffler had the nuts welded onto the flange. The new muffler came without nuts and had just holes for the bolts to be put through.

I bought a new set of bolts together with some copper nuts and a new donut gasket. However, i couldn't get these new bolts and nuts fitted as tight as the original bolts were. Result is that the exhaust is leaking between the two flanges with sometimes a squeaky noise (i first thought the accesory belt was squealing).

The check engine light also came on, i plugged in my OBD-reader and it came up with error P0420 ("Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1".). I suspect that this has to do with the leakage. I cleared the error and drive down the highway, but the light stayed away

I looked up some diagrams, but it seems that the nuts can't be ordered separately. Anyone with ideas how to solve?


Flange of the original muffler, with the nuts welded to it


Flange of the new muffler, with the new bolts and nuts

As you can see, the springs were much more compressed in the old situation. I cannot tighten the new bolts any harder because the thread isn't long enough it seems.
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Last edited by ThinkPad; 08-18-2017 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:23 PM   #2
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Your springs haven't hit maximum compression. Have you tightened them to the point where the shoulder if the bolt touches the flange? If not then you have the wrong bolts. Do you still have the old ones?

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Old 05-15-2017, 03:28 PM   #3
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You could get some washers to act as spacers between nut and flange.

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Old 05-15-2017, 03:29 PM   #4
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Yes. I would suspect incorrect bolts, as well.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:33 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies. What do you mean with 'shoulder of the bolt' ?

I still have the original bolts and preferred using them, but the thread seems to be some weird size that i couldn't get nuts for in a DIY shop. Maybe it are not metric sizes. Do you know what threadsize the original bolts are?

I also tried some washers but they were a bit too big and got warped and the exhaust was still leaking. Smaller diameter washers fitted between the bolt and the exhaust pipe, but they were not available in a size that the bolt could go through.

These new bolts are from Bosal and when compared to the original ones they seemed to match quite well. I will remove one of the new ones and compare again.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:51 PM   #6
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The shoulder is where the bolt flares out at end of smooth shaft section below the head. You need to be able to tighten the bolt enough so that the shoulder touches the flange.

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Old 05-15-2017, 03:57 PM   #7
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Thanks. I will have a look at it soon and see if i can tighten it up some more if possible. Otherwise i will take out one of the bolts and compare it to the orignal to see if the position of the shoulder and total lengt of the smooth shaft match.

By the way, do you guys agree that the P0420 error was caused by this flange leakage? A broken catalytic converter would be very annoying as these things are extremely expensive because of the precious metal that is in them.
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Old 05-15-2017, 04:07 PM   #8
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IMO those bolts look compressed more than enough to put enough pressure on the flange to have it sit tight to not cause a leak. I never fully compress my springs I leave a slight gap between them so the springs can do their job and allow slight movement.

Also a leak at that flange should not (I'm pretty sure it would not) cause a P0420 as this is the secondary O2 sensor reading less than 95% cat efficiency.

Likely your cat is dirty and not working as well as it needs to so the code doesn't get triggered. I would try installing a spark plug defouler in the O2 hole so it backs the O2 sensor out a bit. This will likely be enough to keep the CEL from being thrown.
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Old 05-15-2017, 10:09 PM   #9
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yeah. you can completely remove muffler and you will never have CEL.
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Old 05-16-2017, 01:55 AM   #10
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Alright. That's not good to hear though... I have never seen the CEL since we bought the car a year ago, and now after i have messed with the rear muffler it showed up after a few days. Seems a bit too coincidental to me ;)

As said i have resetted the light, we'll see if it stays off. The current mileage is 115898km / 72015 miles
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:45 AM   #11
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Did you clear out all the old gasket material. If there's small pieces left in there the new gasket won't make a good seal.
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:32 PM   #12
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it's just one of those things. the two are not related.
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:42 AM   #13
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Been a while. I re-tightened the bolts and got the springs a bit more compressed. The exhaust didn't seem to leak. However, when reversing it still made a whistling noise from around the flanges.

So yesterday i ended up having the dealer replacing the rear muffler for an original one. Sound is now gone, so the problem is solved. I also hope the check engine light (with P0420 code) stays away now.
The original rear muffler part number is 10J03 and has nuts welded to the flange.
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:21 PM   #14
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I had a similar experience with my 4 wheeled turd a few years ago. My back box dropped off my exhaust when i was away for work. Took it to an exhaust place because i had a 270 mile drive home. They put an exhaust on. I could hear it rattling on the way home. Next thing i get a P0420. My mechanic fitted a genuine Toyota Exhaust. Fixed it no problem. Managed to get my money back for the old one. Luckily.
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