2010 oil leak ...

[Hershey]

here's pic . Very similar to the '08 sedan we have . They put dye in this engine as well. Bring it back to dealer in a few weeks. Will keep posted.

[Hershey]

used a mirror and a flashlight to get a look at the upper back part of the timing chain seal for the 2010 and 2008 to find the seal leaking just above the large ledge in the corner that's part of the block . It was wet with a sheen of oil and felt slippery on the tip of my finger . Could see some dye in that area with a blacklight on the 2008 sedan . Quite sure it's not the head gasket for either YARIS . I can see how this leak could easily be overlooked . Will try to get a clear picture of that area that's on both . Plan to switch from the 5w-30 synthetic that's used for both to a conventional motor oil to see what occurs .

[Yaris Hilton]

I thought a head gasket was an unlikely source of an oil leak alone. Usually the main problem with that is gas from the combustion chambers leaking into the cooling jackets, followed by coolant being sucked into the chambers.

[TheSilkySmooth]

I have some weeping around that area too. Remeber "everyone" will tell ya modern synthetics dont "cause" leaks.

[Hershey]

this is from the 2008 sedan . The area circled in red is the sealant for the backside of the timing chain cover that is most likely the source of the leak for the '08 and 2010 3 door . Cleaned this area that was wet with fresh oil and could see some dye with the blacklight . It also had a sheen to it with a regular flashlight . Plan to recheck it in a week or so for both cars and clean it again . Then after that plan to dump the SHELL Full synthetic 5w-30 and replace with SHELL conventional 5w-30 and do a short run of about 2,500 miles to get rid of more dye along with synthetic that's left behind in the '08 . Then again refill with SHELL conventional to see if the leak stops or slows down . Will do the same for the 2010 at a later date . Hopefully this will do the trick . If not , will take pics to a different dealer to get the leaks repaired .

[1stToyota]

Just checked that area on mine...a little discoloration and buildup there, but doesn't look wet at all, and I've used synthetic in all but one oil change since new. Maybe it's just an area that's prone to leak if it's not sealed properly with RTV when the motor is assembled. If it's leaking at the front cover the RTV shouldn't really be effected by the oil being synthetic or conventional.

[Hershey]

rechecked the 2008 last night and it's getting wet again . Going to dump the syn and dye with conventional before the weekend .

[Hershey]

checked it again this evening after little less than a week . The seal and the upper / underside of ledge are wet with oil again after cleaning that area . The blacklight showed green ( engine dye ) around the seal . Drained the synthetic with the dye out of the '08 sedan earlier and replaced with conventional SHELL 5w-30 . Recleaned the area again . Plan to do a short run of that to get most / all of the synthetic and leftover dye out . Then stay with the conventional SHELL 5w-30 to see if the leak slows or stops . Hopefully the myth of synthetics causing leaks to be the case and somehow the conventional will put the seeping to an end . Will do the same with the 2010 3 door . Time will tell .

[1stToyota]

Good luck & hope you see a difference, but if the leak is at the front cover where the RTV sealant is I can't imagine synthetic being able to seep through but conventional oil not.

But just in case, I'm due an oil change, so for s&g I'll be using regular 5w30, and if it does good I'll probably stick with it and stop using synthetic also, but not because I'm experiencing any leaks now, because it'll save me money, plus I stick to 5k OCIs.

[Hershey]

Thanks . Just changed oil from SHELL 5w-30 Full Synthetic to SHELL 5w-30 conventional to rid of most of the syn and the dye . Checked and cleaned all areas that gather oil from the leaky seal . Will drain it again in 1,500 > 2,000 miles and then once more in the mid to late fall using SHELL or PENNZOIL 5w-30 convental . No more syns for awhile , if ever . Will keep eye on leak ( including the '08 sedan ) and hope for the best . Didn't realize the 3 door already has 7,400 miles not 6,600 . She drives it most of time . Sneaks up on yeh .

[frog13]

First off,I'm not a mechanic/tech.I do however,ride DS bikes and have researched this very "thang" in regards to bikes.If your engine is new,has low miles and you do not have alot of run time,I'd say there is a torque issue or an improperly installed "gasket".Synthetics usually don't show leaks unless they are put in older vehicles.The older vehicles were more than likely using conventional oil for the majority of their service life,then the owner...for reasons unknown...decided to switch to synthetic.During the time the conventional oil was used...and yes,that's ok if you keep up with oil changes!!!....deposits build along the gasket "line".Now,add-in,during this time there was also blow-by fuel mixing in with the oil and engaging the gaskets...causing deterioation and overtime the conventional oil deposit were "filling-in" those micro-increasing gaps!.Synthetic oil is now introduced.This oil,which "cleans" better/more effectively and has MUCH better flow charateristics...is now removing all those years of deposits and the leaks begin to appear. The idea,I've read,is to begin using synthetic oil as soon as your engine is "broke-in"......then you won't have---as quick of gasket break-down as you did with the years of conventional use.

[Hershey]

both YARIS now have SHELL conventional 5w-30 . Will be draining these fills in 1,500 > 2,000 miles . Then another for both in late fall and run until MARCH or early APRIL of 2011 . Will post results as time flies by .

[Hershey]

checked for leak on the 2010 and was slighty wet with 539 miles on the oil change of SHELL conventional 5w-30 . Recleand the whole area . So , it seems to have slowed down with the conventional . Figure there's still a 1/2 quart or a bit more of the synthetic still in it . Will be doing another oil change soon with the SHELL 5w-30 to get rid of the syn that's left .

[Hershey]

decided to drain oil earlier with 569 miles on previous oil change and replaced with SHELL 5w-30 conventional along with another TOYO oil filter . There was still plenty of engine dye in the extracted oil . Wanted to get rid of the synthetic left behind so is mostly conventional oil . Took an empty 4 gallon jug of motor oil to measure the drained oil from the oil pan and oil filter . The oil was slightly over the 3 quart mark . Thus over 3/4s' of a quart must remain in the engine . I use 3 quarts and 22 ounces to get the to the FULL mark . This includes close to 6 ounces poured into the new oil filter before installation . Recleaned area where oil leaks and collects . Next oil change for both YARII won't be until late OCTOBER to early NOVEMBER . Will inspect in between . Hoping the leaks will start to slow or stop with the use of conventional . Time will tell all .

[127.0.0.1]

Originally Posted by Hershey

decided to drain oil earlier with 569 miles on previous oil change and replaced with SHELL 5w-30 conventional along with another TOYO oil filter . There was still plenty of engine dye in the extracted oil . Wanted to get rid of the synthetic left behind so is mostly conventional oil . Took an empty 4 gallon jug of motor oil to measure the drained oil from the oil pan and oil filter . The oil was slightly over the 3 quart mark . Thus over 3/4s' of a quart must remain in the engine . I use 3 quarts and 22 ounces to get the to the FULL mark . This includes close to 6 ounces poured into the new oil filter before installation . Recleaned area where oil leaks and collects . Next oil change for both YARII won't be until late OCTOBER to early NOVEMBER . Will inspect in between . Hoping the leaks will start to slow or stop with the use of conventional . Time will tell all .

an oil leak is an oil leak

changing the type of oil won't do any good

have it repaired properly

[Hershey]

worth a shot . If not , will get it repaired under warranty .

[Hershey]

well it's official we have a head gasket leak for the 2008 and 2010 . Decided to put the '08 sedan on the ramps and crawl under to look for oil and discovered a small drop on the 1st small ledge under the large lip ( pictured above ) after 2 days of driving in the extreme heat . Cleaned that off and took a look at the seal again to find it dry and no oil residue on tip of finger . Then I took another look with the flashlight at a different angle and noticed a sheen from the plastic head gasket that's sits further in ( cavern like ) above the large lip . Got out from under the car and reached in back of the engine and ran finger in that area to find plenty of fresh oil . The oil that leaks from it must reach the timing chain seal ( pictured above ) and makes that wet with oil and runs down under the the large lip ( pic above ) making me think it was the sealant all along . So the mechanic was right about the head gasket leak , but not from where he pointed out to be the " ball bearing " within the block below the large lip ( picture of that under the topic " WHAT'S THIS " ? ) . Then I decided to look at the 2010 3 door and that too was wet with oil in the same spot . Thus that has the plastic head gasket leaking as well . Talk about sh*t for luck . Will have to get both corrected under warranty . Not looking forward to that moment . Meantime will keep close eye on the leaks and the level of the coolant in both ( no change as off yet ) .

[Hershey]

could starting both cars out with synthetic motor oil at 1,500 miles be the culprit ? . Just seems odd that both have the same leak and are a few years apart . Can't think of any other reason .