Install a backup camera on a yaris 2010?

[ercdvs]

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

[kevinj93]

Originally Posted by ercdvs

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

I'm not sure of the model changeover years - we go by build date here in Australia. My hatchback was built in February 2012. I guess that makes it a 2013 model in the USA. This has a removable panel a few inched to the left of the hatch release (near where the lock would be if fitted) under the lip of the trim piece. The number plate is on the hatch, not in the rear bumper like the earlier model.

Sorry if this caused any confusion.

[weevil]

I found the Toyota instructions on how to install the camera online. I posted the link here but got a message about my post requiring mod approval. Sucks to be a noob I suppose.

Posted it this morning, no sign of it yet.

[invader166]

Originally Posted by ercdvs

I have a 2010 yaris liftack and this interests me too, but i cant see any existing plstic cut out / spot where the camera would go on my hatch.

is this just a euopean thing for 2010 ?

I'm actually working on installing a back-up camera in my 2009 liftback. I have all the pieces I need, now it's just a matter of installing it.

How I'm doing it is by replacing the licence plate light with a special aftermarket bracket that has a back-up camera built into it. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121697810323...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

...and wiring it to an aftermarket head-unit I previously installed. If you want to keep your head-unit though, you can order a rear-view mirror with a built in LCD monitor to replace the original mirror, to have a more factory look. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Auto-Turn-On...NSaS2v&vxp=mtr)

[ercdvs]

Can anyone tell me, on the back of the yaris (liftback) what that black plastic/rubber part is on the top center ?

not the antenna, but on the very top of the gate dead center in this picture
http://imgur.com/xOdY4wr

[NYC-SE]

The nozzle for the window washer.

[ercdvs]

ooooohhhhhh


derp.

[weevil]

Originally Posted by kevinj93

The hardest part is feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof.

Holy smokes you are not kidding. I've hit a complete brick wall at this point. Can't even get the coat hanger by itself more than about 30cm into the rear door. No amount of jiggling, poking or shoving will get it the slightest bit further.

Super, super frustrating.

[kevinj93]

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.

[weevil]

Originally Posted by kevinj93

Yes, it can be a bit of a juggling act to find something strong enough to push through, but flexible enough to get around all the bends. I used the thinnest wire coat hanger I could find. It would bend under the weight of anything heavier than a T Shirt. I guess that makes it about "Dry Cleaner" grade.

Straightened out, but with a rounded end so that it wouldn't dig in to any of the existing wiring, it was flexible enough to get around corners. Not "dead straight", a bit of a curve in the wire can help you get around corners. Once you get it through, you can use it to reasonbly gently pull the camera cable through. I made a small loop in the end of the coat hanger with a pair of pliers, sat the camera cable through the loop with a couple of centimeters cable free to the plug. That makes it easier to get the plug through.

When you get to the short flexible conduit between the hatch and car body, don't pull the end out of the car body. There is a plastic piece inside the car holding this in place. It is VERY hard to get this end of the conduit back in place.

Edit: Thinking about this some more, I seem to recall that I fed the coat hanger from the top of the hatch at the rubber conduit, across and down into the main part of the hatch, as I couldn't get through in the other direction.

Phew, that was an epic. Thanks very much for your help, made all the difference.

Was using a dry cleaner’s coat hanger, but the manual says to do it from the bottom. From the top is certainly the way to go. Def not dead straight, it takes a bit of a dogleg in near the start and need to bend the hanger a little, that is the key. Once you get past that the rest is easier.

For the grommet at the top I found a YouTube video with some good advice. Pushed a long cable tie through first. Has just the right flexibility and strength to get through. Gaffer taped the wires to it and put a little liquid soap on the gaffer tape. The soap really helped the wires slide through a lot easier. Put some gaff around the RCA plug at the end with a little soap and a bit of ‘gentle’ persuasion I could ‘milk’ the plug all the way down the grommet.

Can only do a little bit each day so still a way to go, but making really good progress now. That should be the hard part.

[kevinj93]

Glad you got it through.

It's mostly pull off panels from there on, or just tuck the cable under the edges of the trim while keeping clear of the airbags.

[weevil]

Originally Posted by kevinj93

Glad you got it through.

...I didn’t actually get through it. Been pretty much a nightmare. Running the rest of the cable was okay, tapping the break light was nearly impossible, 3 different taps all failed to work. Ended up taking it to an auto electrician who agreed it was a particularly fiddley and annoying job, took him well over an hour simply to connect the two wires.

Then once finally got power to the camera discovered my OEM head unit is wired strangely and have had to send the adaptor harness back to be replaced.

Saw the camera display in an external monitor for about 10 seconds, after all this time that is as close as I’ve gotten.

[ercdvs]

what was up with the brake light tap? I expect to do the same thing in a few days when it gets here

[weevil]

Originally Posted by ercdvs

what was up with the brake light tap? I expect to do the same thing in a few days when it gets here

Think it may have been the different gauge of the wires. In theory it’s super simple but none of them worked. It’s a super confined, awkward space and the reverse wire is very, very short.

I was not going to buy a solder kit just to do the one job and it was seriously annoying me so just took it to the shop around the corner.

[cparker]

This is a wide angle plastic lens that is applied to the back window. It's 8 x 10 and is available at Camping World and Amazon.com . You often see them on motorhomes, vans and mini buses. They help in backing and parallel parking. Even in a Yaris ,the view out the back window isn't all that good if you want to see something short a couple feet behind. The view from my back window to the ground is about 30 ft. , With the lens it's as little as 2 feet. The biggest problem with these lenses are sky reflections on the bottom 3rd of the lens , unless it's applied to a vertical window. So I had to cut that 3rd off , and that helped. The photo shows the lens which is applied with water to the inside of the window. The other shows the view from the inside looking back. The photos are poor quality, but are better when reduced from your computer.Normally , only the gate can be seen. With the lens you can see the driveway before the gate. So you don't have to worry about running into a small kid or pet. This is a much less expensive alternative to a backup camera. The lens is like a convex mirror, so images will look distorted. But you get a much wider view.

Updated a day later. Decided to move the lens to the left side of the rear window, because when I'm driving I want to be able to see cars driving behind me at a distance. This lens is like a convex mirror, showing objects close behind best. Tried using it for parallel parking and it's helpful.

[weevil]

Originally Posted by weevil

...I didn’t actually get through it. Been pretty much a nightmare. Running the rest of the cable was okay, tapping the break light was nearly impossible, 3 different taps all failed to work. Ended up taking it to an auto electrician who agreed it was a particularly fiddley and annoying job, took him well over an hour simply to connect the two wires.

Then once finally got power to the camera discovered my OEM head unit is wired strangely and have had to send the adaptor harness back to be replaced.

Saw the camera display in an external monitor for about 10 seconds, after all this time that is as close as I’ve gotten.

It's the project that just keeps on going...Finally...got the replacement harness today. Completely wrong, does not even plug into the head unit.

This is an epic.

[ercdvs]

.....and it took some work, but its complete!







That being said the location of the map light makes the image a little too low for my liking, but it really does allow me to get up really close when parking. I have yet to do any tinkering to use it for a parallel parking cut

The hole for the light needs to be modified, so i can retain my map light function, and I am pulling power from the rear light, as i could not find a proper constant 12+ anywhere without cutting wires and pulling apart bundles. using the rear while going forward is just a novelty anyway.

Wires are coming up though the bumper, through the grommet under the plastic cover, into the wire harness area by the driver tail light, and then under the door trim until it hits the front seat... then across and under the center console.

[EbenTian]

Hi everyone...i am a new user here. In my case hardest part was feeding the cable from the camera through the door and into the car body. I used a straigntened wire coathanger to fish the wiring around the rear door and through into the roof. From there to the side of the roof and split the wiring to get switched power and earth at the reversing light, and down to the floor for the video feed cable.