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Old 12-20-2017, 03:53 AM   #19
tamrat
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezhacker1 View Post
So you only want the front turn signals to be on. You don't want parking lights (front or back).

Same thing still Switchback relay. Has 3 wires. 1 is Ground / 12v for (parking light, DRL call it what you want) / turn signal.

Then just wire a ignition wire that supplies 12v with key in on position. Or find a fuse location that is 12v with key in ACC / On. That will be your constant amber light. Then also wire the turn signal and it will act as usual.

I'll slap something together on the car to show ya.
I tried to find a switchback relay where I live and I couldn't find any. I have to import it, which is easier said than done. The only ones I found are the normal 4 pin relays (SPST) which are Normally Open.

Took measurements at the headlight dimmer switch and there are 2 hot lines that drop to 0V when indicators are being used (black for left and violet for the right). Since they are hot normally, I think I can wire each to a relay and control each side. When blinkers are used the lines fall to 0V,which will open the relay and turn off the DRL characteristics. Then blinkers can blink away like usual.

Tamrat,
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Old 12-21-2017, 03:40 AM   #20
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So then your optimum normal function is turn bulb in DRL function

85 - Turn Signal Wire
86 - 12v source
30 - 12v source
87a - Front turn signal 12v

But as you pointed out, you cant cuz hazards wont work. The relay wont open. I guess, also use the hazard wire onto pin 85 then.
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Old 12-21-2017, 03:53 AM   #21
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If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.
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Old 12-21-2017, 12:19 PM   #22
tamrat
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezhacker1 View Post
If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.

Thank you very much for taking your time. This was what I was thinking about in the first place. Running this in MultiSim yields 6V after the pulse-to-steady conversion and it wasn't triggering the relay. So I added an op-amp to boost the voltage to 12V and when I ran the simulation the bulb kept blowing even though it was only getting 12V. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Maybe my power source, I tried it both with a function generator sending a sqaure wave signal and also a pulsed voltage source.

What is your opinion on using the signal from the headlight dimmer switch? The signal is a 12V steady at all times, both for the left and right turn indicators. When you use a turn indicator the voltage drops to 0V. Can't this be used to close a relay at all times except when the indicators are being used?
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Old 12-22-2017, 09:47 PM   #23
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Add a wire to the hazard switch, black wire to power relay as well so both indicator: left right hazard will trip it.

More thoughts. Maybe one relay that runs the left and another the right. But split the hazards black wire to pin 85 on both relays.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:23 AM   #24
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Left this idea alone for some time because I was focusing on school. Back at it now.

I have 3 12V SPST normally open relays now. Genuine second hand DENSO ones. Planning to wire the whole thing today. But I have one big question. I am basically adding a circuit on top of the OEM wiring. The circuit is more or less isolated from the OEM wiring and will not interfere in any way. I'm just tapping into factory wires to get signals. I don't have to worry about feeding the OEM circuit with current except at the point where I tap into the bulb wires.

Do I really need to be concerned about backfeeding (to the flasher unit relay in this case)? Or are these cars clever enough to deal with that on their own?
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:10 AM   #25
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Hey guys, I planned to install the system by now and test it but as it turned out, I completely forgot about the hazards in my circuit. Now I have built another one. Can anyone comment on it?

(More info on the attached pic than the one below)

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Yaris_DRL_EWD_with_notes.pdf (228.3 KB, 17 views)
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:19 AM   #26
tamrat
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezhacker1 View Post
If its just using relays then i think this will be it:

You need the pulsed signal in the engine bay to be a constant so it can trigger another relay




85 - Output from above relay
86 - Ground
30 - 12v
87a -Turn signal 12v

Now unless the (pulse to constant relay) is sending pixies to the 2nd relay. You will have constant 12v to the front turn signal.
I don't know why this didn't work the first time (in simulation). But there is good news. With the comment on switchbacks and this diagram and also help from a lot of people, I have a fully working system now. I mocked it up on the bench and its perfect. Flawless.

Here is the wiring diagram and component specs:


The 6600uF capacitor holds plenty enough charge to keep the relay energized for about 1.6 seconds. This duration is long enough when compared to the period of the pulses from the indicator light wires.

I'll have already started installing the system. I have laid out wires and where every thing goes. I just need waterproof containers for the circuits and also a switch that will fit one of the empty slots around the AUX port. And its a bummer that the Yaris doesn't have a gromet in the driver's side (LHD). I had to pull it though the passenger side.

I'll put up pictures once I'm done.

Tamrat,
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